67RModel

What is the width of the top and bottom flange and the total overall length?

With supplying the dimensions of the additional frame rail on the RW653 and using a common density value for steel you could easily determine the additional weight contained in the double frame. I suspect the Neway suspensions saves several hundred pounds over a camelback. You have to remember the spring packs alone are 250-300 pounds each plus you don't have the trunnion on the Neway. I suspect even with the double frame the RW653 with Neway air ride is lighter than the truck with single frame and camelback. What are the dimensions of the frame rails?

Urea is a commodity created via coal and natural gas as a byproduct of industrial ammonia production, and like most commodities it is traded on the world market. That is to say one country's supply is heavily dependent on various geopolitical events / decisions from other areas of the globe. The largest producer of Urea is good old China. High natural gas prices have slowed the production overall. Additionally, electricity rationing in China have forced the Chinese urea factories to cut output further lowering supply. The largest use of urea is agricultural fertilizer. The Chinese government has banned the export of urea to sure up its agricultural industry and food supply. 80% of Australia's urea comes from factories in China so you can see where this is going. Also, South Korea gets most of its urea from China. I saw where they have resorted to airlifting loads from Australia further squeezing Aussie's supply. I have seen nothing here yet as to a supply disruption but who knows. As interconnected as every economy is I'm sure its only a matter of time.

I have a good running E7 engine out of a 1995 CH that was rolled over. The truck was slowly rolled onto its side while dumping a dump trailer on unstable ground. It was not in a collision or high speed rollover. It is an E7-300. It has been stored indoors since it was removed removed from the truck and has been stored for several years. I have the VIN number from the truck if needed for parts lookup etc.

1972 R685ST with ENDT 675 237hp and 6 speed lo hole transmission. Camelback suspension. Green interior with steel dash. All original and runs and shifts very well. Would make a good restoration project or excellent parts truck. good PA title in hand. Would love to see it saved rather than scrapped or exported. Located in Pittsburgh, PA Thanks.

Maxidynes existed long before 1973. My 1967 R model is an original numbers matching truck and I have all the original paperwork and build information from the Mack Museum. All the component serial numbers match the serial numbers on the original paperwork. It states in the original 1967 literature "Maxidyne". The engine still has gold paint on it and it retains its original gold bulldog on the hood and doors. My truck was not a "prototype" of any kind and was ordered brand new by a local owner/operator steel hauler to feed his family with. I know of at least 5 or 6 other original trucks that have a 237hp Maxidyne engine and were manufactured well before 1972/73. The original Maxidyne produced from 1966 to 1972 was 237hp and named ENDT675.The revised version of this engine debuted in 1972 or 1973, which had the tip turbine intercooler setup that made it 285hp. This was an ENDT676. I think you could still get the original 237 version up until the E6 came out. My truck has all Mack components in addition to a Maxidyne engine so in my case there is no way to know which theory about the gold bulldog is correct.....

I'm tossing around the idea of selling my B81. It is a 1960 B81SX that is sort of a Frankenstein truck. It is repowered by ENDT675 237hp Maxidyne that is suuuuper healthy and probably closer to 250 or 275hp. I just had the injection pump overhauled and the injection shop juiced it up a little bit. It has an air starter. It still retains the original quad box transmission and 58K rears on camelback suspension with 9.10 gears and rides on matching 12.00-24 rubber that are in good shape for an antique class vehicle. This combination of powertrain is good for about 45 mph. It has triple frame rails with no rust jacking or corrosion anywhere. It is currently set up with a Holland 5th Wheel. It also has "shop built" power steering out of a much later model truck...probably a 1980s R model. Because of this, the steering column / steering wheel do not match the cab interior but greatly improves the drivability of the truck. It really works great at slow speed maneuvering and is not overly conspicuous as to not being original. If you were able to get a period correct steering wheel on this column most people would never know. The truck is overall 95% completed and just needs the front bumper painted and installed which I have. As well as some wiring, detail items, and cleaning / polishing. I hate to sell it but I don't have a tremendous amount of interest in B models and its a nice enough example that the right person could make it super nice. It just takes up space in my garage that could be used for my working truck to be stored inside. I have a clear title in hand for the truck and I'm just wondering given that its not a 100% original truck but in excellent restored shape what it would realistically be worth in its present 95% completed state. Sorry I only have 1 picture of it. Its the only picture I have on my phone of it and its buried in my garage. I will try and take some more pictures of it tonight and upload them. Let me know what you think. Thanks.

I would have to agree with the others on here. This truck is too nice of an example to disassemble. Especially since its a rare model to begin with with only 110 ever being produced. I cant even remember the last time I saw a B model mixer and never in this nice of original condition. They way things seem to be anymore original condition trucks like this seem to bring crazy money from collectors when consigned at reputable auction houses. I would clean and polish this truck up as best you could take about 150 pictures of it and consign it with Mecum auctions or similar. You will most likely end up with enough cash to buy two of what you actually want. Just my opinion though.

How close to Pittsburgh are you? I scoured the country for a very specific period and style of Rest Rite sleeper a few years ago for a project I plan to do. Ended up finding one in New York. I placed a wanted add in the ATHS classifieds and got a lot of leads on all types of old sleepers. You would be amazed at how many guys have these things laying around in barns and sheds. I'm not sure if your looking for a specific make or size but I would try a wanted ad with ATHS. Also you could try Adleman's in Canton, Ohio. They have a pretty large junk yard but I don't know if you would find anything period correct. I looked on Marketplace and there's always quite a few on there....mostly later model peterbilt units and they are always asking a fortune for them. I know of a somewhat period correct Rest Rite sleeper very local to Pittsburgh from my search a while back the guy was willing to give me but its it pretty rough shape and needs completely rebuilt. Its still attached to a late 60s or early 70s Brockway. I had already found and bought mine so I didn't pursue it but its still there as far as I know.

The frame looks really goofy almost like a pickup frame.

If you assume it is governed at 2100 and the replacement transmission is a direct drive (1:1) unit the math checks out. Maxed out at 2100rpm you will only be able to achieve 60-61mph. If you install a T2090 or any 2100 series transmission with your rears and running on 11R22.5 tires you will be turning 1716 rpm at 70mph, and will top out at 85mph.

Be careful doing this. The 2090 and 2100 series have a 0.71 overdrive ratio. If your truck originally had a 6 speed lo hole transmission it almost certainly has a maxidyne engine and very slow rears (somewhere between 5.55 and 6.32:1, or even slower sometimes). With these rear ratios you need the 0.6:1 overdrive ratio to achieve a reasonable cruising speed. From what it sounds like you have 1:1 in top gear now so I guess 0.71 is "better", but still wont cruise as fast as it had before you swapped transmissions. Do you know what rear end ratio you have, what tire size, and what rpm your engine is governed at?

It looks like the pictures were taken in a French speaking area...possibly Quebec? Are you really located in West Pittsburg, PA?

Well then from this statement it sounds like the main box of the replacement transmission is not an overdrive unit. Although I'm not sure on this I guess the easiest fix would be to put your original main box back in and the replacement auxiliary transmission on the back of it? Just a though if there was never any real problems with the main box. Since you have your original transmission out and on the floor you could do some real basic testing by placing paint marks on the input and output shafts and see what the ratio is when you have the main in 5th and the auxiliary in direct. If 5th is indeed an overdrive and assuming its 0.6:1 you should get about 1.7 turns of the output shaft for every one revolution of the input shaft. In hind sight you should have done this once you got the old one out and before putting the new one in so you could make sure you had the same overall ratio......

I found this one on Facebook Marketplace. It says it is in West Pittsburg, PA which is about 45 miles north of Pittsburgh, PA but judging from the pictures I can guarantee they were not taken in West Pittsburg, PA let alone in this country so I assume its a scam but you never know.... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/579188643301940/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post

Did you change the both transmissions or just the back box (auxiliary transmission)?

I always thought the back box was the auxiliary which is an underdrive and direct (1:1). The overdrive gear is the 5th gear in the main box. If you change the direct gear in the auxillary to something faster (numerically smaller) you will make all the 5 gears in the main box faster which I don't think you want. You need an overdrive gear probably 0.6:1 in the 5th hole on the main box. It sounds like the one you have is direct in 5th not overdrive.

I have noticed over the last year and a half that people spat off what seems to be large numbers and/or statistics but really fail to understand any perspective as to what they are saying. If you use March 1st, 2020 as the "start" of the pandemic, about 592 days have passed since then. Per the US CDC on average 8159 people die every single day from all causes of death. Some real quick 4th grade math will tell you that about 4,830,128 people have died since March 1st 2020. A little 5th or 6th grade math will tell you this 737,589 figure is about 15% of the total deaths since March 1st 2020. Its impossible to know how many of the 737,589 would have passed on during this timeframe had there never been Covid 19 but lets just infer 300,000 (since we know the overwhelming majority of deaths attributed to Covid19 are very elderly and/or already very ill people) so your number number now drops to 437,589 of actual Covid 19 deaths of individuals who would probably still be currently living had there not been Covid 19. The population of the USA is currently about 329,500,000. That same 5th or 6th grade math from before will tell you that 0.2% have died from Covid 19. Less than one quarter of one percent. Nevermind the fact the 737,589 figure is artificially inflated for numerous reasons. Hospitals were/are incentivized with government money to record the cause of death as Covid 19. The network of traveling nurses and healthcare workers setup and subsidized by the government early on were allocated to hospitals with higher Covid death rates. Testing early on was non existent or unreliable. Is Covid 19 real? It absolutely is 100% real, and it is more deadly than the seasonal flu to a very small portion of the population. Nobody is arguing about that at all. Nobody ever was. What people are arguing about is the complete and total unnecessary transformation in the way we conduct our lives. The complete and total disruption to the global economy and supply chain. The amount of debt and spending the government has unnecessarily taken on in the last 592 days (this to me me is the largest travesty of all). And finally, the draconian measures the government has continually rolled out to force its citizens' hands. If you dig further into the numbers and data to fully understand what has actually happened in the last 592 days you will most likely be amazed. The effects of these decisions are far reaching and very long lasting and in the end will most likely have a net negative benefit to the world. Have a nice day.

If it was some type of specialty truck with very unique specs or had a type of body that was "rare" or difficult to replace I would be more inclined to agree it is worth it. It sounds like it is a garden variety triaxle dump truck in which case it can't be economically "worth it" to rerail, overhaul engine, and replace the dump body vs buying a similar, fully depreciated, turnkey unit. If your objective is nostalgia, hobby, or some other reason that is not economics then yes it could be "worth it". If you had other truck(s) to run and eliminate the downtime you would have while rebuilding the truck it could also be worth it in that scenario as well.

Looks like a late 1940s Diamond T to me.

Probably not worth it. You can find those trucks all day long with good frame rails and beds for anywhere from $20k to $35k. Granted they probably wont have the same drivetrain specs as yours, however, you could keep yours as a parts truck. You could buy a turn key truck with similar specs and just start running it. Reframing a truck and having a new/used bed put on it can't cost less than $25k if you are paying a shop to do it plus you will be missing out on several weeks worth of revenue. Additionally you then have to rebuild the engine. I would find a solid used truck that suits your needs and go that route. And have your current engine rebuilt as a spare. And hang onto your current rears and transmission as good parts.

Any manufacturer's truck can be set up to be "the toughest truck on the market". Its all about correct specifications for the task. You could in theory spec a Granite so poorly it would give you as much trouble as the Cascadias you are referring to. In turn, you also can't take 8 Freightliner Cascadias off the interstate, which are set up for maximum fuel economy, throw them into a muddy field and expect them to hold up to that abuse.

Where are you located? I have a parts DM 800 and a parts DM600 for sale: https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/65212-mack-steel-dash-dm600-dm800/

I am running a fully mechanical EM7 in a 1994 RD690 dump truck. It is a bone stock, one owner (before me), all original unit with 335,000 miles and 11,500 hours on the clock. It has some type of miss while under light throttle input from 1100 - 1300 rpm. For instance, if you are slowing down to make a turn, downshift, and your rpms fall within that range and you apply light throttle to maintain that speed/rpm it will make and audible missing sound. If you lift completely out of the throttle and let the trucks momentum carry itself it will go away. If you apply more throttle (say half or more) it will accelerate and go away around 1300 rpm. If the truck is on a downgrade or coasting in that rpm range under its own momentum with no throttle input at all it will not happen. It only happens when the throttle is lightly depressed in that certain rpm range. Any idea what it could be or tips on how to troubleshoot it. It appears the pump has never been apart as it and the timing gear cover still have the security wires and pressed lead fasteners still intact. Its drivable as is but annoying and obviously not right. For reference this is an EM7, 250 horsepower, governed at 1750rpm. Thanks in advance.

I would get the engine serial number and CPL (critical parts list) number and call a Cummins distributor. They probably have one on their shelf. The Cummins distributor by me is Bridgeway Cummins. If you have those two numbers off your engine they can get you anything for it. Very similar to Caterpillar's parts network.