mechohaulic

the Teacher won't run "into grief " ; he knows - we are being tested in class to see who's paying attention ,LOL

the large "freeze out "plug front section is removed to give you a birds eye view of pump coupling as to assist in proper alignment.

going to pay attention to this one !.question from student to Teacher :: how can a pump be timed on a bench ?? timing sets the pump to an engine cyl? the 11/4 slotted wrench you now have is for the barrel hold down . course don't need it when there aren't fuel lines attached.

wheels turned extreme left to extreme right =count steering wheel turns then split difference in half. wheels are going straight; your all set. don't concern yourself of the line up marks. your NOT driving it 100 mile a day everyday, don't forget to change PS filter. we are all waiting for primer and paint on cab LOL

output shaft/ pitman arm timing marks are for when all is perfect in system. to obtain 100% turning radius L/R timing marks can be off . If when all is said and done the wheels turn one way more then other , it might be axle stops on steer axle . wheels on the ground(there is a difference if front end jacked up)turn L/R count turns then go to center. Wheels should be aiming straight. from center. one turn more then other the stops might need adjusting.

not referring to take the entire box apart again !!!!😱😱;; that tires me out just thinking of it. taking it apart was meaning the steering wheel from the box to center the steering wheel !!LOL

the flat rubber "washer" on top of #6 -inlet/exhaust valve will do it almost every time under those conditions. even with the added ABS crap; it's still a basic valve from OLD SCHOOL . you can take a small house and add a porch ; it's still a small house

Thanks for update especially since it was positive results not costing $600.oo

I see the input shaft has the continuous grove for steering arm bolt. some have only one notch limiting the bolt position. front wheels straight , sit in cab and center the steering wheel might save having to take it apart again. project moving forward == looks good.

steering wheel also centered before install. ever drive a vehicle with off centered steering wheel. mentally find yourself thinking always turning. physically keep turning wheel to straighten

before installing pitman arm :: is the steering box centered within it self ???? count turns from one extreme to the other then split difference in half. wheels straight the two timing marks should be spot on !!

I would go with the R-12 kit 2831, has all the important parts for rebuild. if the piston #4 was cracked the supply air would bleed out through into service can lines which would have a quick release valve leaking POSSIBLY. try a can of spray silicone with flex nozzle spraying into valve from bottom or take off a service line spray into valve. spray in service line not as effective since your spraying on top of piston . before spending $600.oo ; I'd do everything possible to narrow down problem. course have to hope some/any of these kits still available.

be nice to have more specs on it .see two sticks . says 278 engine ; metric numbers ? figured silver/gray interior a repaint = matches steering wheel - Canadian colors ? pretty paint with "sold as is " ?? still nice looking unit ;; thanks

doing that steering box without a helper at the crane controls adds to challenge. if you haven't already removed left side radiator to cab support bar , it might make job easier. engine hoist with a small chain come-along instead of direct engine hoist chain to steering box has advantages too. allows you to stay in the wheel well not have to go back forth to hoist lowering. Swing the box in position then use the come along to lower between frame /radiator shroud. I've been told ; it's important to pay attention to how the chains are hooked to box ; after all the labor to insta[l in proper position you realize :: WTF I can't get to the lower chain to remove it now. so I've been told LOL

so a steering box (major advancement) and rear axle seal; extensive fiberglass work done is still considered accomplishments. if they weren't done the statement would read "didn't get anything done on DM this year"! the Mrs. to do list; yard Maintenace ; a break now and then all takes time.

top face on #6 is a flat rubber washer which 7 out of 10 times is the culprit, either crud or crack in washer if there is a constant leak.

how you connect the chain to the box and hook on hoist makes all the difference also. hooked up so box is close to proper angle when installed . lower into frame ; long bolts/ line up bars . can slide the spacers in when box in position. to hold the spacers, lower box and catch bolts alone P I A .

being a constant leak WITH parking brakes set; I'd go with earlier post I wrote and look at the lower section of that valve. if you have a "helper" a quick check would be to BLOCK the wheels safely; release the parking brake unit having full air pressure and truck shut off ; have someone have their hand on bottom side of leaking valve ; helper in cab step on brake pedal; air leak changes /slows chances are it's the flat rubber diaphragm in valve. to replace bottom kit ::parking brake set ; make sure all air is drained from tanks. larger pair of snap ring pliers (also safety glasses on ) , remove the snap ring .valve assembly has slight spring pressure. important thing air tanks MUST be empty.

another BMT bit of info I never paid attention to ::: duplex right side /tri & quad left. thanks . must be late =have to type with one hand (left) right hand going through shift patterns LOL !! like transmission holder and clean shop

noticed no one questioned WHEN is the valve leaking ;; constant (shouldn't be) ; during service brake application or after service brake applied and released? might make a difference where the hunt starts.

the cab overs will be totally different . hand brake mechanism goes up/down inside with tilting the cab, with cable going to hand brake drum assembly on transmission. the B which assuming is the truck being repaired will have the handle set up bolted to interior floor ;;; linkage connecting to transmission.

thanks for picture helps alot. but with all the electronic wires tied to it can't see the sides. if it's the service brake relay valve = the large line in front (green) is supply; 3/8 line on top is line from treadle/trolly which activates the valve; and there should be two more lines - one on each side going to brake chambers. inside plunger could be dry and sticking or bottom discharge valve has hole in diaphragm

numbers I don't have sorry. almost guarantee the small metal tag which would be on one of the four corner bolts is gone or unreadable,

where you have red circle is the exhaust potion of the valve(forgot to mention). good pair of snap ring pliers will remove bottom half which is flat rubber diaphragm /o-ring ?

can't conceive the prices for this stuff today. 1k for a front brake can; 600 for a valve ????