JoeH

Looooong bolts with smooth shoulder and maybe heads cut off so you can slide the differential forward and off onto a transmission jack or a ratchet sling assembly.

It has 2 rusty elbows on the top of the engine. I really hope one is intake and the other is for a turbo. Looks like a solid 12 inch diameter pipe.

I'd ditch that supplier and get a 275g (or bigger depending on how remote you are) tank with a pneumatic pump & nozzle. With 20 trucks in your fleet you are going through enough oil to warrant buying oil in bulk. If you have trucks on different oils then you could get a tank for each grade of oil. We have 3 trucks and use a "half" tank for 15w40 and another half tank for hydraulic. REIT lubricants fills a small jar for us every time we get oil from them. That way if there's a problem with the oil then we have a sample to send out for testing, to rule out if it's an oil problem or a truck problem.

That's a PitA. Are you buying this oil in 55g barrels or is a company coming and pumping it into your tanks from a lube truck?

Losing prime is usually the injector leakoff lines along the tops of.the heads. Or at least on the 2v heads that's the case. Not sure how the 4v heads are set up.

I put 70,000 mile all season Michelin tires on my 97 dodge Cummins snow plow truck. I've got 22,000 miles on them and they're worn down to the limits. I work the truck hard, but I don't abuse it. The transmission has never been rebuilt and I've got the truck up to 228,000 miles. Usually people only get 70,000 miles out of the 47re dodge transmission. Fact is, hard work eats rubber.

Dial this back to the problem. Recaps have burned through 80% of their tread in 8,000 miles. Cheap rubber compound? What kind of driving do you do? That's probably about the mileage that we get out of our tires, but we have a 15 mile radius and lots of backing into driveways. Scrubs the tread off pretty quick. How's your air pressure in the tires? I always find tires come back from tire shops way under pressure. This will lead to weird scalloping along the shoulders of the tread, and certainly more "scrubbing" of tire tread as the tandem twists through turns. Driving habits also affect tire life. Hard starts and hard braking will mean more wear on tires. Ideal driving habits should include anticipating red lights and coasting in easy in the hopes of hitting a green light that you can ease back into travel speed safely. Far too often in today's 500hp automatic trans world I'm seeing dump truck drivers slamming in to stops hard, taking off hard, and whipping in and out of traffic as if they were Porsches. HP is like a concealed carry gun. Just because you have it doesn't mean you have to use it...

Torque arms new?

How much you want for that roof panel, where are you located? We have a 1979 R686ST that we want to retire and give a little TLC.

Glad you found the problem. Is this truck a recent acquisition? Or something you've owned a long time that tends to sit? If it's a recent acquisition then it sounds like previous owner was a bit careless with his fuel. Wouldn't be a bad idea to change all the fluids just to be safe.

http://www.berrycammn.com/ Someone mentioned on here a few years ago that these guys can weld a new lobe on an grind it to shape. If your machine shop can't save your cam then maybe these guys can.

Front of engine, driver side. Basically the housing that the upper radiator hose comes out of. Check your turbo boost, a cracked charge air cooler will cause elevated pyrometer temps, leading to elevated head temps, and thus elevated coolant temps. Not sure if/how that EECU reacts to reduced boost.

I'm assuming 1125, same as endt676

Modern biodiesel grows algae, so your tank suction line could be clogged with that. Or you're outa fuel? Sucking air in somewhere?

That it was running fine until you stuck it in gear tells me engine should be fine, unless you broke a crankshaft getting it in gear with a stuck clutch.

On the inline mechanical engines I've heard the fuel rack can get sticky from sitting. If you disconnect the fuel shutoff linkage from the lever, does it have any resistance? I'm just guessing, I've never worked on an e9 nor do I know how the fuel pumps function compared to inlines.

A zip tie around each lifter should create just enough friction to hold each lifter in place if I recall correctly. Been a few years since we've swapped cams in our endt676, but we've done it a few times, pays to have a few spare engines to pull cams and lifters from...

The black smoke seems odd, but does it trigger a fault code? Does the lightning bolt dash light work? I chased a similar situation on my 2003 mr688, it wound up being the EECU fuse/circuit breaker was loose.

You need to check the spin direction of the PTO. If it's a PTO on the back of one of the counter shafts then I believe it spins opposite of typical pumps. You would need to talk to a hydraulic component retailer to check your pump on your setup. Verifying direction of rotation is important. As is communicating it to the pump shop...

Trying to chase an oil leak on the front of our 2003 mr688s. ETECH 350. What's involved in pulling the timing cover to reseal it? Truck needs a new radiator some time anyway as this one is weeping the faintest amount, so access will be great if I combine tasks. Anything I should look for while in there? Truck has 27,000+ hours, 400k+ miles.

We have a JD450B, motor is great, but dont let the final drives sit unused. Ours sits a lot and the final drive clutch packs glued together. Someone told me you fill the housing with diesel and let it soak into the clutch packs, but we haven't tried it though. And be careful with that neutral safety plate, never crawl under a running machine. The linkage can wear out enough that it'll drop into gear even with that plate set over the shifter.

Gorgeous truck, post this in the Electrical section of the forum.

Dealer item I expect. Though dealer may or may not understand how to look up the VIN, the last 30 years of VINs they just want the last 6 digits.

Ever find the leak?

Quick! Someone hand them a gun!!