JoeH

The frames are virtually unchanged over the years. You should have no problems finding donor parts from a wide range of years that should work with whatever spec your truck is. Mack did a good job reusing cast frame and suspension components for decades.

Looks like it bolts right to the front of the block/timing cover. I didn't look real close. 1995 RD688S, e7-350, mechanical.

Got you some pictures this morning.

And truckers wonder why cops do DOT stops...

I think they need more duct tape. TJC is probably right.

You should be getting 31 psi of boost out of the truck. I had a cracked charge air cooler on one of my trucks that wouldn't let the truck go above 25 psi. Also ran high egts. Night and day difference in performance when I replaced the CAC.

Rockers look like those on an Iranian Mack that Vlad explained about a few years back. Would seen strange to import a Mack from Iran to the States.

The old 2 stick Mack transmissions are usually around 1,500 lbs I think

I've pulled rails out of a few trucks over the years. Are you talking Rust Jacking horizontal cracks along the flanges or are you talking a vertical crack? Or a stress crack from how the dump body rests on the frame just behind the cab? To remove rail, you have to remove truck body, then block and support everything along the side you're removing. Axles, transmission, front engine crossmember, radiator, can, etc. Fuel tank comes off, battery boxes come off, lift axle comes off, hood comes off, tires off, etc. Unbolt everything. Slide an A-Frame or crane boom over the truck, hook the rail, and expect there to still be something attached. Ensure it's entirely free and slide it out the back. Double Rail can be separated with time and patience by driving a 2x4 in from the rear end of the frame. But sounds like you're into rail replacement depending on how bad the cracks are. Mack Frame Repair Manuals outline how weld and repair rails. If it's Rust Jacking then you're supposed to do this repair before it gets that bad. You get a rail out, separate, sandblast/paint, slap it back in and the do the other side. One side holds alignment while you do the other side. Our most recent project involved all of the above and then some to prep it for a brand new CemenTech concrete mixer.

They can charge you more if they spend more.

You guys missed one point on insurance since Obamacare. There's an 80/20 law on insurance companies margins. They have to spend at least 80% of what they collect in premiums on healthcare. Sounds nice, curtails how much they can charge, right? Wrong. It's a racket. They just let the hospitals charge more because if the 80% dollar value is higher, then their 20% margin they get to keep can be a higher dollar value too.

I'm in Joey's court on this one. Dropping the oil pan costs a gasket and shows any broken bits that find their way to the oil. You're already changing the oil, you're just spending a few more bucks for an oil pan gasket and the mechanics time checking the crank. You'll have eyes on the cam lobes from underneath too to see any gouging and scratching. I'd do this before wasting money on rebuilding a fuel pump. Would be a shame to drop 3-5k rebuilding the pump to find out you've eaten a camshaft too.

Check the oil level before you drain it, if it was running on oil then the level would likely be low?

I'm guessing lines hooked up wrong because they had the trans out for the clutch. But my 8ll had a cracked combination cylinder piston. It's a disc that slides the hi lo shifter fork back and forth.

The pump is live, always on. On trash trucks, the pump has a protection circuit. If the hydraulic system loses oil, a butterfly valve closes and oil is circulated through a metal pipe from the pressure side of the pump to the suction side. This way you can limp the truck along without destroying a $3,000 (guessing) pump.

I have a 2003 MR688S also that had a pump on the front. It has the tall radiator like you mentioned with a hole through the middle. let me know if you want pictures, but it is a different model altogether.

I have a DM686sx that was a barrel truck. 1980. Has a monster bumper, I'll try and get a picture of the radiator/pump bracket.

If you can, get a matched engine/transmission. I know on my mr688 it has a different flywheel and flywheel housing for the auto. A full donor truck would be the best way to go.

Also, the max hp you can go on a stock hd4560 is I think 375hp. Or at least thats the highest Mack offered with them?

I think it's largely dependent on what years the specific model trans you want was offered. I have a 2003 mr688 former trash truck now turned concrete mixer truck that has the HD4560 paired to an etech AI-350. I think trash trucks are generally spec'd with top of the line powertrains. Don't know what year superliners you're looking at, but I know the R models are virtually unchanged for a long time. I'm sure the brackets exist to match whatever engine transmission you want into a superliner. Mack was pretty good about using the same components across multiple models. We have a 1976 U model that had the same exact frame rails as our 1979 R model. The front half of one rail got transplanted into the R model to replace a vertical crack in the R model frame.

No reason you can't drop an etech engine and an Allison hd4560 into a superliner. A trash truck (mr688) would probably be your best bet on a donor truck. You better be good with computers and wiring harnesses though. Etechs use an engine computer, vehicle computer, and abs. The Allison has its own set of computers and shift selector that need to stay integrated with the VMAC III system of the Mack.

Dumb question, what's the condition of your air filter? Clogged filter can cause a bit of oil sucking in weird places....

I've got an endt676 that did more or less the same thing. Except it doesn't even have a thermostat installed. It's just a yard tractor used for blowing cement into our silo. Engine cranks to 1700 rpms to operate the PTO. We put a solid (fixed) fan on the water pump, now it heats to 155 and stays there.

Mine didn't smoke either; don't need to remove from chassis, just need to undo plumbing at either end.