HK Trucking

Finding a spot for the condenser while still maintaining the stock appearance of the B61 nose would be the main problem, and if you shoehorned the condenser in front of the radiator you would have to disable the shutters so they are open all the time. As far as mounting the compressor, there were lots of R model & DM's with E6 motors equipped with A/C, so you could try and find the compressor brackets from one of those, though the brackets would need to be modified slightly because the B61 uses a shorter water pump, therefore the belts are closer to the engine than on a DM or R. For an evaporator you could adapt a complete HVAC unit from an R or DM, or possibly find an aftermarket under dash unit that could be adapted. Other than these options, you could search for an old Kysor "rooftop" unit, which would give your truck a "period correct" appearance. .

Yes. It's done that way all the time on the newer trucks because the newer trucks have an air ride cab, and there is too much relative motion of the cab vs the frame to allow a muffler bracket attached to the cab. Get a look at a CH or CL and you'll see how it's done, then you could do something similar on a B model. .

I remember that one. They used the Cummins, a Fuller 13 speed and the rear end from a Peterbilt. .

Pull the tandems out from under one of your Macks, leaving only the steer axle. That would (technically) meet her specs of "SOMETHING with two wheels". .

Pretty much. .

Yup. Never seize is my friend. Trouble is, most of the stuff I try to take apart did not have never seize applied when it was previously assembled! .

You've probably got the aluminum bellhousing and since the starter bolts obviously are steel, galvanic corrosion over the years has jammed them up tighter than shit! Had that happen before and the bolt waaaaayyyyyyy behind the starter is the most fun to deal with! I just used a long extension with a breaker bar & cheater pipe to break that one loose. You could try using a torch to warm up the area where the bolts are threaded into, but that won't work on the inside bolt as there is no access to it. You might want to upgrade to a 3/4 drive breaker bar & extension with a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer to fit your socket. The bolts could snap off if they're that tight, hopefully not. Sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do! .

Actually, I believe the "722" is a later model of the same basic transmission as the "72" series, also the "7220" is a later model of the "720" series of overdrive transmissions of that era. I had a 1958 B81SX (ser. # 1671) that had a TRQ720 double over quad box with double disc push type clutch. There's also the "7210" which had less overdrive than the 720, but slightly more overdrive than the 7220. I had a 1962 B613T (5466) that had a TRQ 7210 quad box, with double disc push type clutch. The B61SX (53487) that I had was equipped with a TRQ7220 quad box and single disc push type clutch. I've also worked on a lot of other B models and DM's that had quad box transmissions, and have never noticed a correlation between the model # of the trans and input shaft length or diameter, or whether it had a single disc, double disc, push type or pull type clutch (yes, some of the later 7220's used in DM's & R's were set up for pull type clutch). My opinion on the original question is that the trans is a TRDL722 because the truck is a 1965. If the truck had been from the '50s, then it would have had a TRDL72. Incidentally, the "L" stands for lightweight model, with aluminum shifting covers etc. .

Yeah, you're right. Rob already has one of those one sided eyeglass things like Colonel Klink had. .

What about after 2005 when the alphabet was used up? .

Rob, with your legendary status around here, I think Orange County Choppers should be commissioned to create "his & hers" bikes for you & momma. .

You can replace the seal if you wish, but when I encountered that situation, I just replaced the pump with a new one. I reasoned that if the pump was worn enough to need a seal, the rest of it wasn't far behind, and I had to pull the pump anyway, so might as well put in a new one. Also change the filter in the tank while you've got the system drained. .

If the P.S. reservoir is overfull for no apparent reason, then the seal on the P.S. pump input shaft is beginning to fail and the pump is sucking in engine oil and pushing it into the power steering system. A telltale sign of this is that the power steering oil will darken as more and more engine oil gets mixed in with it. .

Eaton Fuller transmissions should use 50w. Mack transmissions use 85 - 90 gear lube. .

If it's a glider, I believe the serial # would contain the letters "GK". .

That transmission sounds like a TRDXL1070, an early version of "extended range" transmissions used behind Maxidyne engines.If it is that model, keep in mind that it's an overdrive transmission, and replacing it with a TRL 107 5 speed or TRXL 107 6 speed which are direct in high gear will result in a much lower top road speed. Not hard to swirch to a pull type clutch, just get the right flywheel & clutch assembly & install them on your engine, and you'll have to change your linkage or clutch cable mounting to actuate the release lever in the proper direction for the pull type clutch. Regarding parts for your existing trans, try Adelman's truck parts in Canton Ohio. .

Rob, is that the one you got from up here? .

Pierce Fire trucks, made here in Appleton WI, are set up with the Telma driveline brake also. .

At that point, "Corporate Masturbation" will occur. They'll have no one left to screw, so they'll start screwing themselves. .

Lets not forget Clark/Michigan front end loaders, Akerman excavators, and Champion road graders, all of which were excellent machines, and were purchased and "assimilated" by V*lv*.

The plastic dash started in 73, but the dashboard indicator lights for turn signals didn't come until about 84 on up. .

A 1987 would have a mechanical tach. Also, before installing the new cable, make sure the tach head is not jammed up or the new cable will also snap right away. You can check the tach by inserting that adapter piece in the drive and turning it with your fingers. If it turns easily it's ok, if it's hard to turn or doesn't turn, then replace the tach too. .

Funny you should mention that Glenn. The E7 mechanicals that I had, I hooked up an air supply to the LDA with a regulator set @ 25 PSI, and an on/off valve in the line. Under normal conditions the 25 PSI would keep the LDA wide open, insuring excellent response and lots of smoke, and if it was DOT time, you could shut off the air supply valve for a no smoke / no power mode. .

Compressor replacements on DM600's kinda suck too! .

Even when new, those engines were notorious for smoky cold starts, and advancing age has undoubtedly exacerbated the problem, due to worn piston rings causing lower than normal compression. .