Mack Technician

Test the running voltage at EUPs and compare with good cylinders. I lost an ecm and that is how we found it.

https://macktrucks.vg-emedia.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductId=6330 You should download and keep this, it is a free OEM Mack manual for that trans...Could help you understand the interior of trans. Because the person you use is a crook or an idiot, possibly both .

Use to have a little club here, the Jenny Falls Corkmasters. We made wine and had get togethers to judge them. I decided to make Dandelion wine to spec. Could not have any stem milk in it because it's ultra-bitter, like you mentioned. Had to pinch only the yellow pedals off each head...….for hours.....till I had a cheese cloth bag full or yellow pedal fluff. Never did it again, but wow, it was good that way. Crystal clear with a light yellow tint. If your every really bored, pinch a bunch of the dandelion pedals, put in coffee filter, boil it, sweeten it and drink it hot. Whole new flavor you've never tasted and can't compare to anything you've had.

Never saw or heard of Krowns till this thread. I’ve tried a thinner Lanolin base, made by “fluid film”, but not as impressed with it. The Duty Master won’t creep, it will draw and pool, but not creep into fasteners as described. I also keep it off my wiring, can’t afford to experiment.

10-4!

Stuff says you can apply to wet surfaces, but don’t. Fine if your spraying a wet gear once a week, like in a maintainence program. If you want it to stick well and last without a bunch of applications pressure wash and dry the surface.

Don't know? You have a Lawson Dealer near you? I put in my order, Lance (salesman) submits it to be delivered to my house, arrives in 2 days (from Chicago) and I get a bill at end of the month. https://www.lawsonproducts.com/Drummond/Duty-Master-Open-Gear-Lubricant/DA6250.lp?_requestid=408398 There are multiple kinds and they are completely different. I tried three different brands. Lawson sells 2 dissimilar types, one thin and then the stuff pictured. Some like CRC Extreme Duty Open Gear and Chain Lube have the consistency of smooth butter with no real tack. Wasted a bill on it, not very good, rubs and washes off.

In your hair, cut it off. On your clothes, throw'em out. In your eyes...….. Kidding aside, 3M Brake Cleaner liquefies it.

I've been experimenting for years on a cure for salt cancer. This stuff is the best and worst out there. Best because it works like a charm at sealing out salt and water and is impossible to wash off, worst because it is impossible to deal with when it gets on you. It doesn't just get on you, it bonds to you and becomes integrated to your body for the next week or two. We use it at the facility to lubricate massive, slow RPM, turntable gears. The consistency is liquid for the first 10 minutes then it becomes a black petroleum gum similar to pine pitch. In cold weather and after years in service it stays soft and shiny, you can cut it with your fingernail. After I rebuilt my Meat Collector Edition F150 I coated it, top to bottom, and all drivetrain units. I did interior body pockets and dead spaces, door interiors, included foot-salt run off zones, beautiful. Has no residual smell even on a hot day. When I did the tank I set it on my chest while lifting, it ripped holes in my bio-hazard smurf suit and tore my thin latex gloves. Small price to pay for an eternally mummified steel. In time it loses it's surface tackiness.

None. Range has a synchro, that’s it.

If they left the thrust washers in production instead of a thrust ball bearing none of it would have happened. They undercut the snap ring land to half depth so the bearing could be used. We reverse engineered some back to original shaft style till we ran out of parts. Did an in chassis sychro this summer on a buddies log truck. All updates installed in a T3. The double thick snap ring no longer pops off like the wimpy original......it shatters and runs through the gears. He called and said he had no high, so limped home in lo. I was picking bits out of everywhere, some rolled flat from gears, but no real damage. Reused everything but installed a new ring. Synchronizer looked fine, well preserved. But, yeah, better, no perfect fix.

Automotive transmissions have synchronizers to bring individual gears up to speed before engaging them. That’s why you don’t have to think when shifting a car or pickup. Your transmission has one synchronizer for the range shift. Hence you have to RPM match gears manually or you get a lot of clash. No sychro(s) between gears. If you try to shift a manual car without pushing in the clutch you would experience a Mack 18 speed in your car. Synchronizers can’t work without clutch depressed. I’ve tried it, it’s a bit tricky and not good for a synchronized trans, but experimentation and curiosity wins over common sense sometimes. One thing to remember is to never range shift to low when going at high speed. A Mack tranny repairman from UPS (wouldn’t guess they use Mack tranny?) told me 3 times shifted to low, at 55 or above, and synchro is junk.

No dude, just think of the last time you were cooking up your world famous long pork. Sizzle and serve.....

Friday I ran into a friend who runs wood to our facility. He told me there are three loads of wood in a day. The last load is the only one you make money on. There is rarely four loads due to scale hours and distance to wood landings. One parked regen and he has a zero profit day. The thing that irks him is there is nothing he can do about it and no one to complain to.

Lol, those suckers are cheap! I call it precision generic so the bean counters don’t feel buyers remorse. The indignation of going back to a hand primer pump on the Volvo fuel filters instead of a Deere or Cat with electric primer everything..... If Volvo wasn’t so cheap, and used an electric lift, all those failing-injector-trucks might actually prime and start instead of trying to inject leaked combustion gas. Take it a step forward and trick it with a “wait to start” light so the rail can Re-prime.

IMO- If the machine has exclusive rights to logically regulate torque to the transmission, and take the ability of the driver to create a shock load condition, the new concepts can be paperweight light (Single countershaft). We are seeing it in our machines. They come with optishift. You can’t shock the trans unless you hit a concrete wall wide open. You can be going forward at top speed in the Volvo and throw it into a reverse drop. Machine decels engine, applies brakes logically and shifts the trans at a low speed threshold, repowers the engine to whatever percentage your foot demands and your heading the other direction. It happens fast and hard, faster than an operator could negotiate a direction change and all within a “safe” parameter. Not flawless.....Do it enough at high speed and you eventually have a brake overheat. On an ice sheet your about to have a free carousel ride and make a lot of body work for the mechs.

Mackr, I don’t want to make predictions, cause you keep disproving & confusing me, like why was splitting the issue, but synchro the failure? I’m hoping someone did not try to take advantage of your dissatisfaction? The Synchro (singular) generally fail from a bad, misdesigned, mainshaft snap ring and it’s undercut land. Plates and clutches were not the issue, they were well constructed. I will recant if one of the other mechanics call me on it....there was never a modification to “harder synchro metal”. If that guy told you Mack built an updated mainshaft with a double thick snap ring to retain the range synchro thrust bearing I’d say the guy was squared up, but sounds like a line from a guy who thinks there are multiple synchros in a non-gear synchro shift trans. Then again....if your driving the crazy thing without grinding.......something had to have been happening??? If your reman transmission(after running a month) is undriveable your going to need to position yourself for a warranty claim. Part of the claim should include a credible witness to the issue....as in a repair order from a dealer that condemns the transmission as having an internal issue or driveability issue that may include a suggested repair for the transmission.

Do a google search for “Mack Service Bulletin SB-221-032”. It will outline a complete ground cleaning and check.

Welcome aboard SingleStack. Pull up a chair and join the discussion......

The dump truck is running about 30 hours a week hauling snow, garbage or biomass. The roll off is dedicated to 24/7 intermittent use so hard to average.

A slight twist in mainshaft would do that, but not in all gears. When rebuilt the tech needs to sand and polish the galling out of the shift rails. If they didn’t polished the gall, and then assembled dry, it could get sticky in all shifts initially.

I owned two Jeeps and didn't understand the "Brotherhood of Jeep" until it was explained to me by a college "Bro". I was suppose to wave to every Jeep owner, but when I had the top off my Wrangler you make a fist above the roll bar. Sure enough, everybody did it....It's a sub-culture.

For what it's worth I can give you a couple break downs on our Kenworth cost centers Both T440 One Roll-off, one tandem dump Both Cummins ISL @ 345 horse Both Allison 3000RDS 2011 Tandem Dump $7.78 per hour total maintenance 2010 Roll-off $11.74 per hour total maintenance includes all outside/inside repairs and all parts including tires, internal and external labor, etc. Roll off has a hard life, clearly....one job is to deliver caustic ash. Don't have enough fleet diversity to make a case...

Rob’s ‘05 was built in the same spirit. The IEGR in any OEM engine killed low end torque, we have multiple. Our off road will barely start in winter cause they won’t “torque up” against cold hyd oil to reach higher RPM. Mack quotes in the AI manual “Design to run high RPM in a vocational application”. AKA- Drive it like you stole it, keep the fuel delivery man on speed dial, or kill the emissions system.

It would be nice to have a fleet owner, with multiple OEM’s, dump some cost-per-hour/mile comparisons.