Mack Technician

Or in the case of little peter, a zombie.

They don’t make a complete kit for job, so be sure you get the full package as itemized parts. Some of those shifter seals are high dollar if they’re teflon. I wrecked one my last go round, bought another, then went and asked to use the compressing tool at the dealership. With that wait could as well be PAI.

Just made up a fresh batch of my Purple Kool Aid buddy.... Best tranny on earth. Told my wife when I die she needs to have me cremated and ashes finely homogenized into gear lube and installed in the drivetrain of a Gold Dog Superliner. Then my son is to drive across the country with it delivering Moxie to all the dry counties of this great nation. Thats how good a Mack tranny is....

WHAT? No broken studs? Those two old ones are going to start bothering you....better crank on em! 😉 Did you take Mackpro's cue on replacement of the rocker shaft bolts? They have a history of snapping and killing the camshaft. Be easy to R&R one at a time.

I would, yes. Don't reuse snap rings. If your paying shop labor rate a guy could easily end up with a reman. Get your Mack dealer to quote it up as complete and then do the X-over to PAI and see if it's worth it. They have the whole unit part #'s. A Mack mechanic who I most respect recently told me he's seeing quality issues with PAI transmission parts. Not PAI as a whole, but transmission. He's tracked his repairs and said longevity is falling short. I'm not so certain he's right or if it's a trend, I suspect high HP/high torque engines are becoming better tranny killers. Coincidently, I saw it too on one T318 trans I fixed last year. It was all PAI inside. The main shaft snap ring on the rear synchro shattered. That part doesn't receive torque regardless of engine size, it gets it's hits from the cylinder shift. I replaced the snap rings with Mack OE out of caution. I still like and use PAI so I'm only throwing that out in case someone else sees a pattern. It's the nature of the game to watch and mistrust the cheaper aftermarket so I'm not quick to hang them.

It's certain he'll win 2020 if they can't impeach him. He got too much accomplished to be fired. I knew he was a jerk when I hired him so what are the Dems going to do, make me think he's become considerate and soft? Plus, if they impeach him it's Pence, not a bad pick!!! Recall Pence in the debates, he dwarfed Tim Kaine by letting him debase himself. Pence is a skilled orator. Anybody notice the DOW is up +470 so far today. GET HIM OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

RED.pdf Buy the whole syncho unit unless the center plate teeth are pristine (which rarely is the case).

I think the odds are in your favor since yours matches mine and mine are installed.

If my machine sees a low pressure reading it must be the other engineers junky greaser. Seems like good'ol fashion arrogant logic? The guy writing the software gets to pick and choose.

I used this a couple months ago on a Volvo L180H. Was awesome. Machine has a Groeneveld grease system on it that was faulting(actually not). Fault code on machine was blaming the vendors greaser unit for system failure. In fact it was the machine side grease pressure sensor causing the trouble. Volvo engineered the machine software to automatically blame the Groeneveld unit if it’s machine side sensor saw low pressure at the lube rail. Ran the CBR with active code....shop in Denmark had listed the solution this last March. Poor devils had replaced thousands of dollars in parts to find the problem. It wasn’t the vendor greaser, it was the machine side rail pressure sensor failed, but then blaming the vendor greaser via fault code.

That’s an important piece of missing information. Replace the fitting your putting your finger over. That fitting is the fuel pressure regulator and there’s a good chance it’s stuck open and creating insufficient pressure. The fitting is a simple, non-adjustable, spring & ball, restriction valve.

Perfectly normal for a large portion of the rails unused fuel to be returned to tank. The fuel rail supplying the EUP’s is very similar to an “open center” hydraulic system. Constant pump volume flows through center and is consumed as needed. Up here the drawn fuel tank gets warmed in the winter by hot return fuel. There is enough return flow volume to argue the transfer fuel pump is part of the right side engine cooling system and the aluminum tank is a functional heat sink.

If they’re buzzing you have a short to ground on the power output of the relay(post 30’s output side). If you have a 30 AMP relay they buzz if you try to draw more than 30 AMP through them. Protection feature. Those are more than 30 amp. Hard to read.

Folks don't believe my Area 61 construction conspiracy theory about P.T.? I suspect deep down those old ladies in Virginia are a little afraid of you because that's a motor pool the size of the 35th Division.

Funny, you nearly quoted him. He pulled some hair out, but wasn’t too frazzled once he was reimbursed the equivalent of three weeks pay for what took 1 day plus 6 hours of driving.

Mack is pretty spooky about drips of fuel anywhere near the exhaust manifold. Maybe good since they sent a bunch of AC ASETs into the atmosphere as a black vapor. Was talking to fuel shop Mike a while back. He was called to testify as an expert witness for a dealership customer who got CCRS injectors installed in a non CCRS engine. Destroyed a lot of hardware. Anyway, Mike was explaining there’s a point in the injection cycle where fuel is allowed to back-flow away from the CCRS injector. That’s what makes them such a pig to bleed, it’s not a one way street. It’s part of the dynamics that allow them to use a non-leak-off injector.

Don’t know, I wouldn’t have anything to base it on.

Rotating Cam till your on the low circle of the fuel lobe, pulling the EUP down evenly with two drivers simultaneously....or, as I usually do, get it on low circle and place a large seal bar against the top of EUP near pump body's center and compress it into the bore then run a bolt down to hold it in place. Clean the taper cut of the bores upper rim, making sure rust is removed and everything is lubed with clean motor oil. Mack wants new bolts every go-round.

You guys sound like you have these engines figured out. That being said, are you following protocol when installing these EUP's? Unless your a huge fleet(or dealership) you shouldn't be seeing this many chronic, consecutive, fuel-to-oil cross contamination issues?

Mobil Delvac 15W-40 1300 super is the oil Mack relabeled as “Bulldog”. Good oil. Far as intervals is concerned....you need to walk through the description page of your Mack maintenance book and see what service bracket best fits you.

Did you do smoke file and resistor? Or just updated software?

The EUP is the slave and the software his master.

Your kids are schooling you on Jan Brett books?

Jam a pressure washer tip in there and give it 20 minutes with full steam setting. That’s 3K PSI. Getting wet is the hard part. Clamp them and walk away. I didn’t appreciate how effective the average psi washer is at erosion till last year. As policy Our mechanical group gets commandeered to work with a Millwright group once a year for one week. This time on a 10” fiber-plastic bushing in the auger shaft of a 20,000 gallon tank. Shaft was not removed during operation. We drilled and cut and hacked and hammered, even tapped bolts into it and slide hammered. Finally they called it. Supervisor said “ get the water blast contractors in here overnight and get that damn thing outta there!!!”. I said “no way are they going to remove that with a pressure washer”. Guy said “oh yeah, they do it all the time”. Two guys were stringing a pressure washer wand in as I was leaving, next morning the bore was shining with a smooth mirrored finish, no bushing, dissolved it on one side and ~pop~. Stuff was rock hard friction material. Millwright said they go over 5,000+ PSI, so a small advantage over the average washer. A stream makes a canyon?

If you look at it practically...…. what's faster and easier for Volvo, drilling/machining the thing straight or building blind corners into the passage ways? All the CATs we have are straight shot, home run, hit'em with a 3/16" X 8" drill bit, done.