Mark T

😏 the f in fjh is for fast fingers

Leak down test would be the next thing. Or remove the exhaust manifold and look for a port that looks different to see which hole to start investigating more. Leak down or a bore scope in through the injector hole. Never know, if an injector washed it down , maybe it doesn't need an entire inframe. Once the head is off, you'll see how worn the inside is in general. Sounds like you're going inside though.

That test for the turbo sometimes you need to cobble the return line to run into a pail and look for bubbles in the oil that collects in there when the return is under the oil in the pail, and just to make it interesting it needs to be sorta hot (like operating temperature) it's a messy test and you'll pump a fair amount of oil out into a bucket doing it. But ????

blackdog2, where do you get all these pictures ? I love'm , thanks for posting them all.

Looks like some sort of walking spring suspension poking up past the frame. Like as if somebody slid a bogie in there from a duece n a half.

They're 38s in that truck. Looks like maybe someone put bigger springs in it ?? Those won't hurt anything in there, and don't get nervous if you hear them jingle'n around in there. Terry's right, those U bolts need to be tightened to spec, and it's a lot. (like 1200 or 1600 ft/lbs) or you'll be taking it apart in no time again.

Never ran one myself. That truck in the pictures looks like it may have been aa Allen Coal truck. There were a few and right up until only a few years back there was a guy close to here used one to pull his lowboy. I was lucky enough to see it in action a couple times. I can tell you one thing, it wasn't crawl'n along when I saw it. He moved some big equipment too. They were hot in their day. If you wanted power back then, you got a 12V71 or a 1693.

That jeffries guy has ears quite similar to big mike's husband (obama)

How about the 361 in the background with the way newer body on it 😍 Nice Brockways.

Alternate part number E7018 😁

Aww man.....we've all been there. Few days, it'll be easier to see the humor in it. 😇

The right side should be the same on most anything Fuller. The left ? Most every Mack I've ever seen the lever was round on the inside and used a second adjusting collar (splined) for adjusting the clutch brake that was secured to the splined part with a 3/8s bolt and had a 1/2 inch adjusting bolt and jam nut. The lever likely came in different lengths as it worked in conjunction with the cable and the bracket the cable mounted to in the area of the bell housing. Other makes ? there were several variations of keyed slots or splines on the shaft and different levers depending on the geometry of the rest of their linkage so the travel was correct. Guess it would start with what you plan on using to actuate it first of all. (this part might be a little tircky) Sure it's been done plenty of times before. Shouldn't be too hard to use a VIN from a Mack if you were trying for somewhere to start as far as left shaft and lever . Or a VIN from whatever to get from a dealer of what you figure will work best for you. Like Geoff stated, others had different set ups to go along with their chassis. (still can get new stuff with a VIN though like from a Peterbilt or Western Star or whatever)

It was some form of grader like in the picture. Guy had a couple on the trailer, one looked like the picture you posted.

Like the love child of a lonely Euclid and a DM.

Would you believe I saw one of those on a trailer going East on The NY State Thruway earlier today. Was right around Utica when I saw it. So one is still around anyway.

If the ones for it aren't available anymore, it almost looks like Peterbilt ones might not be impossible to retro on there. Like from a 367 or 365.

They're only around the diameter of the average valve springs. Wound tighter and a couple feet long. They stretch out almost twice of their relaxed length.. some have a long hooked piece that adds to the length instead of all spring .

They're lift assist for the most part. Gotta think about it a second where they'd be if the hood was closed. They n=may not look like much, but when they're in good shape they make the hood a lot easier to open and close. When they're worn out or missing ( as sometimes the hook wears through or they break ) you almost need two people to open the hood, or close it without a hard landing.

I thought the furniture truck was a single axle. 🤔 Those two rear ends look perfectly fine 😏

That's quite the video, thanks for posting.

😏 you know they sell those 502 crate engines.

Hurt ?

I was taking a steering axle out of a Western Star. To replace it with the one I ordered next day air the day before.

Left side of the truck is likely left hand thread. From the picture, it appears the guy standing on the tool is going the wrong way for "off"

Might be draglines around an operation like that. I know I'd like to see more of whatever is there