Hans Remmers

Yeah the Superliner 1 has the same headlight and fender design as its American counterpart. In all the pictures of Aussie trucks I've seen I never realized the Superliner 2's had lower mounted headlights as is apparent even in the Bicentennial edition you just posted. I think the pinstripes on the white truck just made it stand out.

Changing subject here, but I've never noticed the headlights mounted that low in the fender before. Were all Aussies like that?

I'm not positive but I thought it was a #10 jic as I always use -10 AII air brake hose to the dryer. 100r5 hose same as the truck uses for the fuel lines.

I remember hearing about the bulletin years ago and have since ran a 2000 460 and it worked extremely well. If the engine is a 460 I would think it'd have to be an E-tech and don't know that a regular e7 Jake would even work on that engine.

The E-tech's I've seen lost braking power as the engine oil warmed up when the engine got some miles on it. There was an update that used external oil lines up to the Jakes on those engines and they worked very well.

Hose is 100r5 AII air brake hose and fittings are reusable if they will come apart. Not always the case when they look that weathered. Better to use that hose than to have one made from a crimped hydraulic hose. 2 wire hydraulic is bulky and heavy and not as flexible and doesn't hold up as well under the hood as air brake hose. Air brake hose was used for air, fuel, oil and coolant lines on all manufacturers for years. Fleetpride carries hose and fittings if have the right counter person. Hose is listed as 201-6 if 3/8", 201-8 for 13/32"

There are several recent posts on here by the current owner. First looking for a superliner to buy, then a few weeks later posting that he bought this. Then looking for parts to make it original again. Within only a couple weeks of that a friend sent me the ad from facebook. Doesn't make a lot of sense being so desperate for one, buying this and almost immediately abandoning it to ask crazy money for it. It could be a priceless truck, but not without a lot of money and time to make it right. But hey, price has dropped $7k in 2 months, it must be on sale

Its running good now so I'm putting rods and mains in it just because it sat so long. Appears they were done around '97 from the date stamped in the old bearings. Had typical wear on the front, center and rear mains but not excessive. Rear thrust washer partially spun on locator pin was the biggest issue I found. By the weekend I'll get the engine buttoned up and I don't foresee anything else major mechanical necessary. The pump conversion was an interesting project and I was happy to find all the parts I needed from my donor engine were still in the storage trailer. The ambac is such a resilient pump and very simple and easy to clean out. Nothing like the Bosch. I'm not sure how many engines had the ability to use with either pump. This block had the 3 ambac mounting holes filled with silicone and hex plugs and the oil drain plugged with a small freeze plug. The ambac drive hub mounted inside the timing cover through 3 of the 4 bosch pump mounting holes. I have a 1985 2 valve parts engine with an ambac and it does not have the provision for a robert bosch pump. I installed the drive hub without removal of the timing cover or cam gear which did require removal of excess material from the aluminum hub and a lot of finesse to get it behind the cam gear. I didn't find the correct injector lines for the ambac which required me to reshape the existing lines for the time being. The ambac sits about 6" further back than the bosch. What I thought were the correct lines are apparently E7 lines which I now realize use metric threads in the head versus the USS coarse E6 threads. The ambac and bosch throttles operate in opposite directions remedied by shortening and reshaping the linkage rod to the pump and adding another lever on the throttle shaft across the back of the block. Once I got searching online for linkage pictures I remember now the Superliners used both linkage and cable throttle configurations. I don't know if this was optional or based on year. I've also been getting the interior fixed up. I replaced the stolen left gauge panel and am rounding up my other parts. I'm trying to find a decent silver grey paint closely matching the original color and make the dash and heater cover match again.

Finally finished the robert bosch to ambac conversion and got it running right. The bosch pump did have at least one seized plungers I found after removal. I didn't feel like dealing with it after finding the aneroid valve was messed up and a rebuilt pump is now nearly $3k. The ambac swap had plenty of hurdles involved but it seemed to pay off. The pump I used has been wrapped up in a storage trailer since 2001 and was very reluctant to wake up. Upon installing I had to open the governor and found the rack stuck in the shutdown position. I flushed it out and had to rotate the pump many turns before I was able to get fuel discharge from all barrels. I'm still not entirely confident in the timing as after multiple checks with the pc stand I continued getting inconsistent results. I finally just decided to see if it would even run and it actually fired very easily after all the trouble leading up to it. The throttle was giving proper response immediately and it seems to be running out very well.

I thought I fixed the Bosch pump issue but its still about the same. I finally got the barb fitting sealed on the return line after getting the ac compressor bracket out of the way. I removed the rear cover on the governor assembly where the manifold pressure line attaches and found the diaphragm ripped and the nut had fallen off the shaft allowing that part of the governor to keep the throttle open as the return spring was not longer holding the shaft back. I made a temporary fix of it and found no improvement. The engine still gradually rises to about 1800 and won't come back down. There had to be some driveability concerns nobody admitted to with this when it was parked based on the wear and damage in the governor I've found. I might check on the price and availability on a reman Robert Bosch tomorrow before going with the ambac conversion. I got most of the pieces to get the interior back to complete from a junkyard Saturday so I want to get going on that.

No affiliation, 11/12/21 auction in Mississippi. 1979 Cruiseliner 350, 10 spd, Neway. Appears to be a Schwind repainted red. https://www.proxibid.com/Commercial-Trucks/Truck-Tractors/1979-MACK-CRUISELINER-VIN-WS712LST44065-TANDEM-AXLE-TRUCK-TRACTOR/lotInformation/64745869

Being mechanical it is most likely to have an internal or external throttle switch on the injection pump that could be unhooked as well. It seems you would know if it was operational or not and should have a dash control switch like an engine brake. In some cases they can work as well as an engine brake and are utilized in situations when trying to avoid the noise of an engine brake.

It must be attached to an air solenoid that is typically easy to unhook. Is it an electronic or mechanical engine? Does it have an engine brake as well? I've never seen a CH that didn't run the exhaust right under the cab. That seems pretty rare on a Mack.

There was a white one at Gerhart's this year with the button tuck headliner and Western panels but I think it had a standard Allentown vin plate. I know some of the Superliner 1 RWS models were tagged Allentown too.

No affiliation. Located in Depew, NY (Buffalo-Niagara) at Casey's Truck Salvage. 716-681-0750. Called about it and they sent some pics, asking 5500, down to 5000. Did run, listed as project. More than I need to spend right now having just got my Superliner and it doesn't have the "Western" themed interior. These are getting rare since not many people have saved them from scrap, never more than 1 at any show I've gone to. 330 tip turbine, 10 speed roadranger, 38 rears.

Crack pressure on the ambac injectors is 4200/+150-0 thats why I don't think I could mix match, bosch is only 3600/+175-0. I don't know where to look for the other info you're asking for, its not listed in the specs

I found a cross reference for your number to the 313gc5168p18 that appears in the 1989 tune up manual. Calling for injector assembly 736gb259p10, nozzle 114gc39p21 ambac number nbh 770405

To the best of my recollection learning some things from an old mechanic my family had employed while in my early teens he told me the 3rd brand was UD? I dug out my 1989 and 1990 tune up spec manuals and looked up available pump part numbers and configurations. The different pumps used bosch and ambac nozzles as well to go with the pump respectively. 1989 had the option of bosch or ambac, 1990 only offered ambac. Pump timing is 18 or 20 degrees depending on the brand of pump. I've never gotten an exchange unit of a mack pump. I've always gotten my same unit rebuilt or repaired. I'll need to pressure test this pump to find the leak. Its too hard to locate the leak with the engine running while having little to no rpm control. It is a straight thread banjo bolt with copper washers. The banjo fitting has 2 barbs that the plastic tubes attach to. One going to the head and the other around front of the pump going to the check valve on the main return line. This configuration must be designed to purge air from the top of the injection pump.

Oh and I never understood the bosch pumps running the throttle shaft through the pump with the return springs on the back side attached to a menagerie of extra levers and extensions.

Ok, so I no longer have any remnants of any robert bosch pumps to even dismantle. I do however have a 1990 e6-350 ambac pump and I'm almost positive all the injector lines for it. Has anybody swapped pump types? Is the base timing the same? Are the injectors even the same? Maybe I should just bite the bullet and send this pump out but first I need to make sure the return fitting leak I'm fighting with isn't from the pump housing itself. Like I said the housing has an obvious helicoil in it which really bugs me. I never understood Mack jumping back and forth between ambac and robert bosch in from what I saw 1988-1990.

Last picture is whatever used to be fuel that I got it running on. The worst rust of all is shown in the back of cab pic. Found an inspection receipt from 2005 in the truck and its less than 700 miles from the current mileage. All documents and tags I've found expired in '07

1989 rw613. e6-350 original not a maxidyne on the tag but maxidyne on the hood??? 13 speed roadranger rto14613 appearing to be original equip, shift pattern on the dash and mack part # on tranny tag. 4.42 mack rears on 38k taperleaf. Paint is poor, roof peeled, very minimal rust anywhere. Scavengers did get to it at some point: stolen volt water oil gauge cluster, top dash panel where ashtray located, passenger seat and heater cover. Will post some pics.

Thanks for the info Vlad. I managed to get it loaded and back home. I've since spent a couple hours attempting to flush out the pump but haven't had any luck. It shows some throttle response yard driving with the brakes still heavily dragging. No load it continues to have a tendency to climb to 1800rpm and stay there. Fuel shutoff is still unresponsive. I've been fighting fuel leakage at the banjo fitting where the head return attaches. I can't figure out why its leaking exactly but there appears to be a helicoil in the pump where the banjo bolt threads in and judging by the paint on the pump it looks like it'd been overhauled shortly before being parked. I'm not sure how I'd feel about sending this pump out right now if a butcher has already been in it.