Hans Remmers

I was looking at prices after reading this post and said the same thing. I too saw the $1400 12.00r24 Goodyear. Ridiculous.

If you're doing that many miles on a short wheelbase CL with 58's it probably feels like 500 a day.

I'd go the Double Coin route if you're running Roadmasters. They're really not a bad tire. I don't know about Roadmaster now but I started running Cooper Pro Series LHD (long haul drive) and found they're made in China. That bothered me at first but they're getting good mileage. Then of course the price jacked up. They're now more money than my US made General HD's. I'm still running some just to keep a comparison to the Generals. I guess Cooper production relocated overseas after they were acquired by Goodyear.

The other issue you might run into is the top of your Mack lever might not be 1/2-13 thread.

Just compare the operation of your splitter to that of the Eaton 3 line I described. 1 supply red. 2 low range delivery black. 3 overgear delivery (unsure- green or blue). That company twisted shifters sells an eaton valve and top combo. The valves are 1/16" pipe thread. You could change the fittings to 1/8 or 3/16 tube if necessary. Current standard seems to be 5/32"

Last set of 58 rears I put brakes on was 18 years ago. They have 18" Eaton cast iron cores. I believe the linings are bolted but around here everything rusts so bad buying relined shoes is a necessity. I'd say the price is 2-3 times that of a conventional 16.5 x 7 brake job.

I can't imagine you're talking about the 18" brakes he's looking for. That price would've been cheap 20 years ago.

No association, it looks like its been through hell but still a cool truck. I think it was on truckpaper a few years ago in much nicer shape. Can't be too many like this. https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trucks/for-sale/212844179/1991-mack-mh613

I'm not sure its in a tough spot to get around it right now. Maybe Steven can check or I will when I go back there. Any idea where it should be? I was more interested in the Walter next to it but couldn't find one on that.

It happens here too Vlad. Big government is in control everywhere and they're trying to make it worse for everyone here now. No, this is still an operational business, just with stubborn ownership.

I'm not sure about the Maxitorque. An Eaton valve supplies air back to the trans for low range and the over-gear.

Wow, you're absolutely right. Exactly 10 years ago. Titled "couple pics for Vinny" of all things. They've devolved a bit since then. The 2 that appear only as bushes today on Satellite images had buckets on the stacks 10 years ago. The place was a bit more active back then and it seems there are even more there today.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334300168414?hash=item4dd5d7c0de:g:Ed0AAOSwXgZh7vMH I'll have to check my pai book tomorrow to see if this is the right one.

JOT? Need to get a flag option on here to get rid of the spam. Seems like it got real bad all of the sudden.

Depending on the year there are at least 2 completely different options for that and they did not interchange. The Ambac and Robert Bosch used totally different pumps. There should be an aftermarket new available through PAI or another manufacturer still. I have a used for a Robert Bosch.

Bad relays or injection pump switch???

The transfer pump or the injection pump? Transfer pumps should still be available through a PAI vendor. There are different pumps based on injection pump manufacturer and hp rating.

I was hoping to get another picture the same day. Less than 1/2 mile away from this yard is an APA MB tanker being used as a yard fueling truck, unfortunately it was behind a bunch of PODS in its yard. There is also the RC Cola beverage body MB I posted a pic in the Junkyard Macks for sale listing, but it is pretty rough.

I'd say you need to measure your intake inducer size and compressor and turbine sizes and reference them to the numbers you're looking it. I dealt with D&W buying our one 82mm and when I said I needed to order a smaller wastegate-less turbine housing they were not very enthused. I'm no expert by any means, I get my numbers from our guy doing ecm tuning. I wouldn't change much if you're not running any extra fuel over stock. Keep in mind if you go much bigger on the turbine side it will give it lag and make it long winded. I've had quite a few newer Borg Warner 78mm 410sx's blow the guts out from overspeeding on 3406e and C15's. There's always a degree of risk changing turbos and adding power.

I hope you fought that bill. Unless this was 100's of miles later there's no excuse for that. Were these spoke wheels? With today's brutal roads I think thats the best choice. As long as its reputable axle surgeon company. I think most half ass ones I described have faded away. If that started to fail its not like you'd get much warning. FYI for anybody here, Frontier truck parts has reconditioned axle housings in the $2500 range I've been using to replace ones with worn out spindles and broken banjos on 404 Eatons, they've been decent.

I thought they did until I tried knocking it off the worst injector and then cleaned it to realize it was just a housing step. I checked the cups, nothing. So I studied the manual and found the earliest cups had a lip in the bottom and didn't use washers. I've never seen this on any engine, probably why they failed. I ordered a cup tooling kit on ebay, only $260, as long as it works for 1 job thats cheap enough. Thanks

I'm having flashbacks to 2005 when we put our DM dump back on the road with a set of 44's we never used. It kept blowing 1 wheel seal daily being done by our regular mechanic. I assembled it without a wheel seal and was checking if it ran true rotating with a dial indicator, the needle wildly jumped and I realized the plug welds were broke loose and it was chucking in the seal ring!

I pulled the injectors on the 04 epa engine I mentioned in another thread. It has a complete combustion blowout into the fuel gallery on #6 and some leakage apparent on other cylinders as well. These are the old cups that did not use sealing washers at the nozzles. Any recommendations for repair and the tooling I'll absolutely need to complete this? Is cup swaging absolutely necessary? Should I replace all 6? So far all I have for parts is o-ring kits and 1 injector. V said this vintage wasn't problematic like the latter so I'm looking for suggestions. I know there are always corners that can be cut but I don't want to be too risky. This is the only modern Volvo/Mack I have to work on at all so I don't want to get a bunch of tooling I'll only use one time in my life.

I just noticed the upper lights. Looks like the bastard child of a Betty Beaver's sign.

That looks like a Saulsbury body? Can we get some interior shots? I'm amazed by the massive cab doors and curious what the inside looks like. I hope the lower cabinet rust isn't as deep as it looks like it could be. This truck needs to end up in the hands of somebody like Matt Pfahl.