Mackpro

So true Dirtymilkman. The CH cab hasn't changed much except for cutting a hole in the firewall for a doghouse for the MP engine and scooting the back wall back a few inches , to make room for some of our larger drivers. I remember getting in our first CH's on the lot back in 89. All were silver with blue strips and had the fiberglass MH doors on them. E-6 4-valve head manual pump engines. Those a were the days. I don't remember doing much warranty work on them babies!

Probably needs as cluster. But try this first. sb732005.pdf

Be careful what you wish for. Im sure the next generation of trucks/cabs will be made of thinner and less metal and more plastic. Change these days usually means a less quality product.

Does it have 2 spin on fuel filters? Or 1 spin on and a Davco clear bowl filter set up? The Davco has a check valve in it that goes bad.

Being a 2001 you might not have to replace the cam key. Starting in 01/02 the CCRS style Etech came out and it uses the same cam key way regardless of HP. Also the CCRS engine didnt have the 460XT as I remember. On the CCRS 460 engine the engine needs the wastgated turbo as the data file looks at boost pressure all the time. However the CCRS 427 uses a regular style turbo. What is the last of 6 of your VIN and model #

I had 3 Tyson trucks in a row with bad camshafts, This would cause that cylinder to have so much unburned fuel that it was starting uneeded passive regens when the soot ratio was very low. However if you soot ratio was high, if the EGR diff sensor ports are clogged or sensor bad ,the ECM is seeing low pressure/flow. The ECM opens up the EGR valve farther to get the pressure /flow up to specs. This can clog/soot up your DPF in 50-80 miles.

Unplug DEF pump harness and check for DEF inside the harness connector. Also unplug the Turbo actuator connections and recheck. I had a turbo actuator short out the J1939 line and cause the DEF level sensor not to read as it is on the J1939 line too.

Probably a fan clutch issue. Is your fan clutch huge with aluminum heat sink fins on it? If so, its a Borg Warner Cool Logic and they are junk. We have a 2015 here that has had 2 replaced and we finally changed over to the Behr type fan clutch. Look for signs of oil specks splattered on the front of the engine. If you have the Horton air fan or the Behr type your OK.

The fan can stay engaged for awhile after the high pressure switch it opened. Usually its set at 60 seconds. This a parameter that can be changed in the engine ECM. Factory setting is 60 seconds.

The AC high pressure switch should be a green and round and opens at 300 psi. Is someone installed the wrong switch or got it plugged into the wrong place it could make the ECM think the AC head pressure is over 300 psi

This was the unit we installed, it came with everything for the R model ( unit, compressor , brackets , condensor, drier , switches and hoses)But as Kscarbel2 said, get a factory AC compressor mount , as the ones that camee in the kit never stayed tight.

I installed lots and lots of the Red Dot "between the seats" units back in the R model days. Had the be the coldest A/C ever, never saw one that would get above 39 degrees output temp. Had to run them on low. Downfall was your elbow would smack it sometimes while shifting if u had long arms.

12 volt power goes through the air solinoid all the time. The engine ECM grounds it internally , when the ECM tell it to engage it breaks the ground and fan engages. High water temp, high intake air temp and A/C high pressure will engage fan. With engine off, shoot air into fan clutch and see if it disengages. That will rule out the fan clutch its self. Make sure you have system air pressure going to solinoid (130 + or -). Other wise have a laptop hooked up to it and check switch status to see whats engaging it.

Its more than an ECM swap. Your ECM and be downloaded to a 400 with no parts change however a bigger crank balancer is recomended. To go to a 427/460 you need turbo and injectors, camshaft removed and off set key way installed in cam gear ( or it will run hot, trust me it will). And of course download the ECM bumped to 427 or 427. This is on the eairler ETECH's 1998-2001. 2002 and up CCRS and ASET style has fixed cam gear key way so you dont mess with the cam. This is how the dealership/factory says to do it. You could always go to some aftermarket injectors and turbo. Just swapping an ECM is risky. Different software levels and options could really hurt instead of help

Make sure you dont have a A/C high pressure issue causing the fan clutch to stay engaged. We have seen problems when the defroster is on it also turns on the A/C compressor and if there is a blockage and the high pressure sensor is tripped it will turn on the fan clutch. Mack has 2 types of electronic fan clutches and 1 type of air fan clutch.

2004 was the worst year. They stuffed the then "new " EGR motor into the CH/CX standard frame with no room for a bigger radiator. 2005 and up they came out with the CHN/CXN with wider frame rails in the front to allow for bigger radiators. Alot of engine updates came out in 05 and 06 to help with various issuses. I would hold out for a CHN or CXN,

Hatcity is correct, on all ETECH style cylinder heads the bottom exhaust manifold bolt holes are drilled into the push tube galley. So oil can leak past the threads to the outside. Pull the stud out and put some good RVT ( we use the gray Mack RVT) on it and reinstall. Always use the correct stud and not a bolt or longer stud, we have seen people put a long bolt in and it hits the push tube and causes a engine miss.

These also might help. H-ring1.pdf H-ring2.pdf

Is a Mack dealership doing the repair? The "H" ring in the block that holds the lifter could be to high or turned. The dealership should have the tools to check "H" ring alinment. If they are installing ceramic lifter you must have spring loaded push tubes on the exhaust side. Cam break-in.pdf Camshaft.pdf

When you buy that DD-13 , dont act shocked when you find out they use the same NOX sensors, DEF doser, Holset turbo, same brand/style DEF pump and so on as the Mack/Volvo. Very few suppliers out there anymore. Our Mack/Volvo turbos come in a Cummins box sometimes. That said , I say its a crap shoot with any brand anymore. Just make sure you got a good dealership close by regardless of brand.

Rust? Really? I just pulled in a new truck off the lot, No rust here? Your dealership on the the Salt Flats or the shore of the Dead Sea? lol

Here is a fuse diagram for a 1999 RD with an ETECH engine. scan0006.pdf

Your timing code means you might need the new bigger balancer. Check out this service bulletin sb221037 3-4 code.pdf

Bingo, thats how your inside buddy at a dealership can do it..

There is a ground breaker on the firewall next to the wiper motor, All the grounds in the cab come through this