Mackpro

If the code is MID-128 PSID-47 FMI-1, that a failed regen with temp to low ( the way im reading the book). I wonder if one of the DPF temp sensors is bad and telling the ECM that the temp inside the DPF is too low. Then the ECM is telling the 7th injector to open/flow more fuel to the point its melting the filter. I had a truck that kept showing low regen temps and the regen would stop due to low temp reading. We put a new 7th injector and cat in and it still show low temp during regen. we finally replaced the after cat temp sensor and this solved the problem. To much fuel or too much oxygen there.

As Turckster said above, I'd check the shims/depth. Here is a mack bulletin on the 3-4 code. 3-4 code.pdf

There were some bad "out of the box " 7th injectors out there, The dealer should have caught it as there was a notice about checking the date code/serial number on one befor you install it. A sticking EGR valve will cause the DPF to fill up to fast and well as the EGR Diff sensor being bad and telling the EGR to stay open to much. We are also seeing DPF diff sensors giving false reading and telling the ECM that the DPF is full.

There was a recall on some dashes, see if yours falls under this build date. Sadly the recall is expired. cluster 2.pdf

Is it a GU model ( I assume it is)? Here is the only Mack bulletin on the dash cluster but it wont help much. Id say either the cluster is bad or the data lines from the VECU to the cluster are bad. Check fuse to the dash cluster first. cluster.pdf

Injector cups strike again. Thats what I would shoot for.

They never totally free wheel. They always spin somewhat.

The top feed kit seems to work great but best i remember parts and install were around $2000. There were so many updates that were available to upgrade the Jakes that it was confusing on what was what. We usually started with the high voulme oil pump first and see if it helped. top feed.pdf

If your looking for new, there are none at the Mack warehouses in the USA. There are 11 dealers in the US showing one in stock however none are near you. I can give you some leads on the dealers that have them though

Unless it's missing all the time, For an injector code with an FMI-8 we just replace the harness end. Be careful as the harness will be brittle and the insulation will break off. I have put alot of these on over years. Mack says replace all ends but if the harness is brittle and coming apart when you touch it, I usually just replace the bad one. But its up to the customer if he wants to risk damaging the harness to replace all ends. My friends MP-8 has almost 800000 miles on it with orignal harness and I have replaced 2 ends on 2 different ocassions. His truck runs fine but his harness is about toasted. In his case he would rather be down a couple hours 2 times versus having a new engine harness installed taking at least a day or more( depending on who installs it). The injector harness and the rest of the engine harness is all one piece. injector harness.pdf

Mack is having lots of flasher problems on the newer trucks, I have seen melted fuse panels where the flasher plugs in to. Mack did come out with a heavy duty remote flasher to solve the issuses but they are high$$$

On most all Macks (except the 2010+) when both lights are on it's low coolant (or bad low coolant sensor)

How hot is it getting? Heres some info on the oil temp, this came out due to the complaints on the oil temp guages in the new style CX dash. sb210031 oil temp.pdf

We got the new tools last week but havent used them yet. We havent replaced any cups in a while, knock on wood!

Yes on the broke rings and your not yelling loud enough. Contact corprate offices. They should get you in touch with the dealers DSM ( district service manager), he can make things happen.

Make sure that behind the dash cluster, that the factory pugged in the correct wire according to what type of truck it is. We found lots there were incorrect and were burning up hood harness.

If you ever had to deal with Meritor warranty from a dealer standpoint, you would wish they never existed. The only time in my life where I made time to sit down and write a nasty letter to a corporation. That was about 8 years ago and I still hate them and things had not gotten much better. When my friends or close customers are specing a new truck I always make sure to steer them away from any Meritor items. May a thousand internet curses be upon them!

We get alot of new broke down MRU's towed to our shop. They are usually being delivered to the customer from the bed companies. I have seen a couple of MRU's with what looked like HD headlights. Never really paid enough attention to check them out. We also had a new GU rawhide show truck , on its way to a big show and it had some weird blue bulbs in it. However I have never seen a CHU with any aftermarket lighting.

On the poor throttle responce between gears, have you had the dealer do the "Step 12B" update to calibrate the throttle pedal? It seems to do wonders on some trucks. Just did one on a CXN this morning. Took me about 2 hr to reflash and download both ECM's. But with just a AMI-300 engine its just not much to work with. You could jump to a AMI-335 with just a download( HP upgrade) and it would give you 140 more FT LBS of torque. I dont know how much the download would cost as it has to be turned on at Mack and installed by the dealer. Also if these are MR or LE garbage trucks your limited to HP because of lack of radiator cooling.

All AI and AMI engines seem to have high soot in the oil, mainly due to the design of the engine. The AI/AMI has 2 humps on the exhaust lobe of the camshaft and opens the exhaust valve twice. It will suck dirty exhaust out of the exhaust manifold (anyone notice how small the exhaust manifold is on a AI) and reburns it on the next stroke. Kinda like a EGR system. Thats how the AI/AMI got away with no EGR valve/cooler but the AC engine didnt. Also there are 3 or 4 ways of oil sampling. I know that the one the local CAT dealer uses always shows super high soot in the AI/AMI engines. oil sample.pdf

He just said "dont do it , unless you like buying an engine". I really dont believe him, but I really dont want to find out that he's right!

The 10W30 was factory fill for most 2010 + Mack MP engines, it was done for MPG reasons. But we were told if you ever changed to 15W40 , dont go back to 10W30. This was coming from a Mack engine guy at Hagerstown. Here is the Mack service bulletin on the oil pressure issue. PV729 -FSB221-010_M.pdf

Been so busy here that I rarely open my laptop when I get home so I dont get on here to much anymore. It's been a couple of months since I talked to Bigen. I text him today but dont know if he has the same phone number. I picked up 2 part time jobs at night monday through thursday plus my day job plus helping with my wifes store/business. My 6 and 12 year old boys keep me and the wife busy as well. Hopeing to retire from my full time job in less than 10 years at age 55. Things are looking good and I have my fingers crossed!

Mack finally came out with a service bulletin on this problem. After I read it i remember someone on here was having this issue FSB 221-010, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs), Low.pdf

Also check this as well, remove the black metal kick panel in front of the passenger seat. On the back of the kick plate will be the ABS ECM and the vehicle ECM. Make sure the vehicle ECM is facing down ( connectors facing down). If not unplug the 3 connectors and check for rotting/green pins. Also check the wiring harness for rubbing on the kick panel. We had alot of RD ETECH's with the ECM's facing up and full of water.