mrsmackpaul

Swishmab, the first big Flinstones were, as in the 800 series Paul

The Olympics are becoming insane! Last night I watched Strippers V's Ninja's

Gotta love the old Flintstones, getting pretty thin on the ground these days Paul

Tah muchly Swishman Paul

If every alleged person that died from a wheel coming apart was true, the worlds population would be at least half I must have been knocking around the luckiest people on earth as I have never known anyone thats had a rim come apart, this inculdes the tyre service in town that I have never even seen a tyre cage on the premises Anyway, I guess a ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, stay safe out there Or people just learn how to do things properly Maybe we should remove all the warning labels and just let mature take it's course As for torque on the nuts that hold the cleats on, I reckon Swishman has shared the actual Kenworth procedure and it isnt anywhere near as tight as we might think I've done some searching and so far found some directions on spiders from Swishman Im sure there's more but you get the drift Tight enough they don't come off and not to tight that they strip the thread And check every few miles after having a rim off, 3 or 4 times and check they are tight This isn't exactly rocket science Paul

So Swishman you have had the old M ride and or T ride for a few years now How do you find it Paul

Yes there was many years ago on hear that a tubeless rim came apart, was rusted out and gave a decent whack on the knee As far as the letting air out before mounting or removing from the hub I think on a steer this would make it more dangerous as the removable section is mow facing you Once a split/demountable rim is inflated and the beed is locked in they are as safe as a tubeless Possibly even safer, a lot more has to go wrong on tubed tyre and rim for them to come apart than a tubeless rim once a tube rim is inflated and locked together Paul

Welcome aboard There is a Facebook page dedicated to getting the best out of the Anthem If your on Facelessbook it may provide some interesting reading https://www.facebook.com/groups/2198506597074278/?ref=share&mibextid=adzO7l Paul

Oh behave your self 🤪, bugger me the years have flown by Paul

It pays to remember just how long ago the late 90's was To me it was only was yesterday, but machinery it is a 1/4 of a century Were did that go ?? I guess, don't be to critical of previous owners Paul

Some thoughts As Geoff Weeks would say, fix any air leaks first But if it doesn't leak air, change the compressor, rebuild kits are available for most compressors I personally dont stuff about rebuilding them and just put a tested reco compressor on As Joey said PAI have just about everything you will need Mack, in Australia at least has all or any rocker gear you will need If possible, I would have the heads rebuilt rather than put a a used set on A used set is a unknown, a rebuilt set should be as good as new I personally fix everything that is possibly wrong when I have it in bits, it's off the road sdo fix everything Paul

There will be plenty of cracks in the heads, they will be all over the place Especially around the injectors Most times this isn't a issue at all, have them checked to see if they are leaking thru the cracks If all is okay then just have them done up Paul

Well done, zoom zoom Paul

Australia and New Zealand build the trucks im their respective countries The Australian and NewZealand Macks are very different than the north American ones and New Zealand are fairly different than Australian I guess our conditions in each part of the world vary greatly and even though the numbers of trucks sold in countries like Australia and New Zealand are tiny it is worth the effort to build them A lot of components are imported and a lot are made locally What percentage of each I don't know, but enough to be labeled as Australian made for Australian trucks Paul

There are still a few in Australia, not many working now though I think the survival rate here was petty good All Australian ones had 4 headlights All NewZealand ones were like Australian ones but built in NZ Paul

Yep, as already mentioned Very cool stuff, even if you have no immediate plans Paul

She's gunna need a big patch to cover that up Paul

Matt Im sure it will be fine There are so many different ideas and styles There's no wrong or right answer here The only vinyle on my truck is my name, I wasn't sure I would like it as it's a bit different I'll get it done in paint one day as I'm more than happy with it It costs a bit to get done, but I feel it is worth as it really finishes a truck off and gives it that final personal touch Anyway thats my thoughts Good luck with it all, not that you'll need any Paul

That's fantastic sheet metal, I expect to see colour on there shortly No pressure 🤪😂 Paul

Bob the green truck us a Freds truck, a pretty big fleet by Australian standards The whole fleet is done up like this https://freds.com.au/profile/vehicle-fleet/ Paul

It appears that every country and even different areas of countries had their own style Great information there Mark, thanks for sharing I reckon New Zealand had the best pin stripping and scroll work I have ever seen, they really had it going on The modern scroll work in Australia is not to my taste at all, all big and crappy, the young blokes like it though I guess it is each to their own and the younger generation need to make their own foor print on the world no mattee, these are some schmick looking trucks and not just plain white I'll shut up now, white frost and very cold in this part of Australia this morning brrrr Paul

Bugger me that's a decent sized hole there now Keep on plugging away at it Paul

Looks good to my untrained eye You blokes have some cool gear over there Paul

Well pickle me grandmother TeD Bullpit Mate thats a great story and a cool truck Chassis numbers on Australian Macks are just behind the first front drive axle RHS Wheels seals etc are easy to get, I doubt you'll go any good chasing a Mack part, I dont even bother in Australia for simple parts like wheel seals etc Caps and the rubber bungs for the front hubs are Stemco or most other brands fit I would of thought you would change the front hubs to 10 stud like Pig Pens Engine number, check on the top of the block were the injector pump bolts up No luck there, RHS about half way along the block Very very cool stuff Paul

Im gunna be bad and told to bugger off probably But I guess you shared the pictures of the proposed pin stripes to get some feed back or thoughts, so here goes my only comment I new a bloke who saddly is no longer with us that was a really well regarded sign writer in Australia Also the bloke that did my work had similar comments So these were about contrast and contrasting colours in stripes and paint work So with this in mind I wonder if two gold stripes are the go ? I'm thinking maybe a thick gold stripe and a possibly thin white stripe to add that contrast and make it pop Contrasting colours make a big difference Anyway I'm not saying not to do something, or something is wrong with what your planning, just providing some thoughts A cracker of a build and gunna be a "CRACKER JACK", I love it Paul