Lmackattack

3 years ago. I was moving a grinder from job to job for a crew.. on the last job they were grinding up against the curb when the machine fell thru the pavement into a washed out sewer pipe. it almost went over. we had t tie it off to a loaded dump truck and wait for the wrecker to get there.

Likely home made. Just buy a sheet of stainless and round of the corners and give it a bend if its needed. one thing I would do if you install them is to add some sealant to them where they bolt to the hood as that will prevent water from leaking between the hood and SS plate.

The early US version of the RS700L was basicly a R700 Hood but with a larger grill that stuck down lower into the front bumper and the rear of the fenders were mated to frame mount splash gards. This hood may work on a Aussi R700 with some front bumper and battery box / fuel tank modifications. The cab may also need to be raised up a little? The later US (1973-1978) version of the RS700L had a taller hood and the grill fit into it without any lower protrusion. there are other little diffrences but thats the basics. See the pics below of the diffrent (Mack Western) hoods the yellow hood is closer to a R700...

My RS700L with the 285..... when I bought it I found out the first time I pulled a trailer that it did not make more than 14psi. No air leaks in the intake system. did not have bad blowby. had new filters etc... I put in new remain injectors. still was weak pulling and EGT was going up into danger zone. I thought the engine was tired and needed a rebuild. For shits and grins I took off the turbo to inspect it and found this... hard to tell in the pic but it was letting exhaust by pass the blades without spinning them. just a thought

I must have just missed you at the Flying J. I rolled in there around 9 A.M. Wed morning and both sets of piggybacked R models were still parked over by the truck wash. they did not look all that bad but I did notice a huge oil leak on one.

Very correct. I measured a superliner air bag when inflated and it was about 6" top of frame to bottom of cab. My RS700L cab sits about 5" off the frame rails. The air bag set up I used from a superliner II bolted right up to my cab. However the lower part of the bag mount I had to make work as I did not have a frame cross member to mount it to. When I installed it I had to get the lower bag mount as low as possible to gain that extra inch. I think these bags have a internal bump stop so getting the right bag height is important. anyone looking to convert their R models to air cab... dont forget you have to make new radiator supports so you can remove the X brace from the firewall...

I agree that air ride cab was a add on option. I know most of the early-mid 80's R models I drove were fleet spec with solid cab mount. Seams the R models of the late 80s early 90s it was more common to see air ride and less common to see rubber mount.

I replaced my RS700L's rubber mount cab set up with a superliner air bag set up. The difference was huge. It took all the bad bucking out of the truck. My truck is camelback and with the rubber mount cab if I was bob tailing the cab would get in a shaking rhythm that drove me nuts. The air cab set up removed that issue and when I hit a bump the rear of the cab just absorbs it. That being said I think when a truck is loaded some of the air ride rear suspensions ride worse than a camelback. I drive a pete right now on air and that truck bucks worse than a camelback

Your pic of the Blue RS700 is what looks like a 1972" or early western. These hoods were basically a Eastern R700 hood with a Western grill. You can see below the hood the grill extends to take up the gap between the hood and bumper. Also the there is openings in the bumper for more air flow to the larger radiators. Now, look at the gold RS600. This truck is a later western R model as you will see that that the body line on the side of the hood is about 4" above the top of fender. The later Western R models had taller hoods and in my opinion looked better without a gap between hood and bumper. You can also tell what era Western Mack you are looking at by looking at the gap between the top of tires and fender to see of its a early or later Western. The cabs of Mack Western R models sat up higher on the frame allowing for a taller radiator options and thus higher HP with Mack and off breed engine options. The western grill opening is about as wide as the frame rails and thus as wide as common radiators of that era. That being said, you could spec a Mack Western with a standard 6 cyl Mack and the standard radiator was plenty large for what we would consider a small bore diesel. There are a lot of little differences in early and later Mack Westerns you just need to look close and you will see them.

Tip Turbine used boost from the turbo to spin the turbine. the Turbine would draw "cold"air from the 2nd tube on the air cleaner and pass it thru a charge cooler to reduce the temp of the boosted air. A front mount intercooler works much better but there is no mistaking the sound of a tip turbine. Many people dont know that there were a few versions of the side mount charge cooler. Some were air to air only others had both air to air with a water jacket to help reduce intake temps. the one shown in the pic has the water and air version

Thats right Glen. After I drilled all the welds out of the old roof skin it came off and I saw the rain rail / gutter had some rot in it. So I then removed the rain rails and installed new ones by simply gluing them to the cab. I used the new roof skin for a guide when installing the rain rails. The roof skin simply lays in the bottom of the rain rails so it worked good for a guide. After the rain rail dried over night I went and glued the roof skin to the new rain rails. I think it was called 3M panel bond. its what they use to glue these new cars together. They claim that the glue is stronger than the metal? the metal will tear before the glue lets go? It was much more easy to glue the new parts on than to spot weld. I also went and sprayed a 3M rust sealant in the A pillars and cab corners while the roof was off. Hope to slow any rust that cant bee seen between metal panels. Trent

Same here ...no need to brace it...I drilled out all the spot welds, removed the roof and installed new rain gutters around the rear of the cab. the front was still good. I used the 3M panel bond so no messing with re welding it. so far so good..

My Rs700L did not have a heat shield on the stack when I bought it used in 2004. I would have to go back and look at the build sheet to see if it was an option. But you are correct in saying most of the Westerns did not have shields. Just about all the pics I can find of them are bare metal mufflers.

you are correct that the westerns had straight rails nose to tail. not sure on the tank brackets but that makes sence as well as the eastern R model frames did flare out near the firewall

search for "wiskymack" on this forum. He has painstakingly made 1/25 models of a few Mack Western R models. I think he offers these kits for sale. I have one of his RS700L kits and its amazing the detail he did on it. He also had a thread on here of a Valueliner he built. this was a year or 2 ago?

the oil filter set up sure looks like that of a 673 or 711 it also has a blueish green color to it. The maxidynes were gold. The cab is a steel dash so no later than 73'

From Wiki.... 1969: Mack patents the cab air suspension.

I have pics of them stored somewhere. They were V8 macks with 2 stick 6 speeds. I remember both trucks had issues in the floor where the rear cab mounts to the frame cross members. there were not air ride cabs and with that short wheelbase and spring ride it looks like Chicago roads gave them a beating. the floors had a upward hump in them. Not sure why but I have only seen that damage to the floors on the western R models?

When they had their RS700L's for sale about 10 years ago I stopped in to look at them. In the shop they had a 2 or 3 new mid 80s R models just sitting on jack stands waiting for work or to replace a crashed truck. I for get the mileage but it was very very low. Their RS700L's went to a exporter

I may be wrong here but if you get away from the "B model" transmissions such as a 5, 6 or 12 speed used in the R models your clutch linkage changes. The B75 I just bought has a 285 maxidyne and 5 speed. inside the cab the B model clutch pedal that was pushed thru the floor was removed and a R model Pedal was installed. They bolted the pedal bracket to the fire wall and used the R model style cable linkage to the bell housing . It worked out great but if you plan to change transmissions to a pull vs push style clutch it wont just be a drop in replacement.

Years ago I saw a pic of a Superliner with a KW aerodyne bunk and it looked pretty cool as well. I think it looked period correct. Never been in a Aerodyne bunk so not sure if that was a good sleeper or not.

did you check with Mack or PAI. ? Just a few years ago PAI was still advertising old Mack engine parts?

the excuse I heard was the USA mechanical E9 was killed because of EPA crap. Now I see a electronic E9 built for over seas. I didn't know a electronic controlled Mack V8 was ever made?

When we were sled pulling we dropped the air down to 20 psi for better traction. they never gave out on us with all the abuse. I was running my RS700L around the same just to reduce the bounce.