Lmackattack

Sounds like the frame and hood are from diffrent trucks?? If its a R700 you will have a longer hood than the standard R600 models. If the frame says what you say then i would stick with that serial number as what the truck is. You can contact the mack museum and see if they have the build sheet. send a small donation and you will get lots of info an what the truck was equiped with from the factory. I would guess they just added a long hood at some time for personal prefrence ??? look to see if the cab mounts have been moved that would be a clear giviway as the 700 model cab sits about a foot further back. look at the gear shifters to see where the hole in the floor is for them to come thru. My RS700 has the hole near the firewall where the R600s will have the hole closer in the middle of the floor. if you find a patch or the hole is in the middle this might give you another clue that this truck started out as a R685 with a standard hood.? Someone could give you more info about your +/- ground issues. I belive you simply reverse the wires on the dash guages, and swith the wires on the batt???but dont quoit me...... look at the pumpkins. most mack rears you pull the diffs upward. other mfg like to place them side ways. the mack side covers may or may not have mack script on them...depending on the year of the truck. the ID plate on a Mack rear will be on the top.passenger side on the slanted plate. it should read something CRD92/93 and below that it will have a ratio..i.e 4.17 hope this helps

congrats on the new dog you found... you will have lots of fun restoring it Email me the pic and I will try to post it for you Lmackattack@hotmail.com Trent

Mike I just got word that you will not be going???whats the deal!!!! you must be a real good spotter if they wont let you have sundays off!!! i will post some pics of the event tomorrow for ya

thanks again for the help Dave and Nigel I will just replace the stock breather with a new one as I found a check valve in it thats exactly what I want Dave. my first gig driving a dump truck had this set up. I cant remember if you had to push the clutch in to engauge the PTO but I remember not having to be in gear to raise the dump body . It was great when delivering stone or dirt at someones resident where thay always ask to have it spread out to help them shovel less. The side mount was always fine when you just droped the load and thats that but your right 1st and 2nd was way to low to get the pto speed and 3rd is to hard onthe truck/clutch when spreading. when you say the shaft runs thru the trans. is this easly installed or does the trans need to be removed. I will ask my local PTO supply shop about this style setup. Regards trent

Some day when I have some time driving to a race I will have to stop over and get some pics off those old dogs. whats the story with them??? are they all trade ins LOL...

I will check for that Dave. My truck currently has a 2 stick 6 speed, its not the factory installed trans, the build sheet says it came with a single stick 5 spd. I spoke with the 2nd owner of this truck recently and he said he had the 6 speed installed. hopefully the 6spd will have the gear as it was common in dump trucks???

ok I will look into the married units. I am welding threaded bungs to the pass side fuel tank this weekend. I will wait to order new lines after I chouse the Pto/pump set up. I like the filter idea as it will keep any dirt out of the tank. I was going to add a 3rd tank for hyd use but the limited space between the rear wheels and current duel 120 gal tanks is making me think about using that space for tool boxes or something more usefull. what about a breather? will the stock fuel tank breather be to small?? thanks for the advice Trent

Ha Ha.

what replaced the b model then??? Trent

might go with if i got some time. are you getting a hotel, or do youhave friends that way??

congrats Doug. As a kid I thought U's looked ugly. then I drove one and discovered how good they really are for city use.

Hi Mike. the owner told me that the superliner that did the full pull works a few days each week moving machines on his lowboy. His wife was also driving a superliner that looked simmilar to his, I belive he said her truck worked every day as a dump truck. there is a truck pull some time at the end of the month in belvedere if you are intrested.

I will be soon adding a 2 line wet kit to my truck for use in a dump and lowboy setup all the older Macks I have driven with wet kits had the pto mounted to the pass side of the 6spd trans and the pump was mounted to the frame rail powered via a drive shaft. I have some used ptos at the yard that need nothing but some seals/orings and a air actuater on the PTO as it was manual before... any tips from the experts on what I should or shouldent do to make the set up easy and reliable? this is my first time working with a PTO set up so besides working the levers and switchis on the dash this is all new to me Trent

do all the pics from the east coast look like that .LOL welcome to the board. lots of great people and topics here Trent

glad your back Doug. hope all is well. look at it this way...now you can fix all those little things on the truck wile you wait for your full strength to come back Trent

it looks to be in Ok shape but $7500 is too much in my opinion. you could get a better truck with more goods for that amount. I got a good running Mack in Febuary for $3,000 and drove it home from KC to Chicago with no issues. The off set cab had a few diffrent models U, DM,DMM, Im not shure when the U model was retired? I belive the DM,DMM sieres was the only offset models availible untill it was discontinued when the granite was recently introduced. this is all hearsay from the mack parts guy. so hopefully its got some merit B models were replaced by U models in 1965-66 and later that same year R models were introduced. Many dont know but mack made a "kit" called a BCR. it could make the B model in to a R model. the kit included a cab,hood,and other basic parts, you used the B model frame and drive train and bolted the BCR kit to it. they are rare and I have only seen 2 in my time.

if I remember correctly the 600hp cat has the same tq output as the 550 cat. last time I checked I think thats what I read I drive an over the road 1997 internationa eagle at work and it has a 550 cat with an 18 speed. not shure about the rears. I also work part time at a construction company that has a superliner with a 440 E9,and a 18 speed. I have never had "go" between both at the same time, but i can say they do feel simmilar in power. The mack E9 has the traditional low down tq and the cat is happy in the higher rpms. also the E9 does not have any of the problems most people say they do. I do know with a mech E9 you cold get lots more from it than an electronic 600 cat.

Are you driving the RS700 there mike?

yea all the trucks looked good at the end seen. must have been fun driving a truck thru all those buildings LOL

gotcha...the one that runs thru all those buildings chasing the squad car... LOL priceless

I agree larry when you flow more fuel you dont always make more power, other things like timing,injector size,more air are all needed to safely make the HP. but its always fun to do a smoke show Trent

havent seen many RS700Ls "convoy truck" with single axels but i think roadway had lots of R700s with S/A??

Thanks Tim. I did not know such a machine was availible. I was at my local Mack dealer tonight and they do have that machine you speak of. I might have a go at it after my rearend gets rebushed. Update on the shaking problem. Tonight I installed the new rear cab rubbers and it has improved the ride BIG TIME!!! i still get a slight shake but it will go away as soon as I knotice it. The old rubbers were smashed pretty bad and the hole in the steel cab support is oval so it looks like the shaking has rounded the hole and was not helping the problem. one thing I noticed is that when I removed the old rubbers the nut was not very tight. When i put the new rubbers in I tightend it untill I could see it begine to squezz the bottom rubber. the cab now sits maybee 1/4 inch higher and rides much better. i did a few laps around the yard and i could hold 2nd gear to the floor and still see straight LOL. I then did a quick 6 mile trip over a concrete hwy and thats where I noticed it did not shake like it used to in the 30-45mph range. hope this helps Trent

the pump can be messed with to flow more fuel. without looking at the pump its difficult to explain exactly what to do. its not difficult but I had to let an oldtimer show me the ropes and I havent messed with it sence. some things you can quickly check is that the stop cable is not holding closed slightly. and that the fuel lines are not clogged with rust or muck in the tank. I found a clogged fuel line on a 10 wheeler once and it had no power or smoke. On my R model I put an air swith in the dash to controll the puff limiter, when I bypass the limiter and stomp on the pedal (show pourpose only) it smokes pretty good.... like it should. My b model has been parked for 3-4 years but it throws a good cloud when I switched gears. P.S I asked some more people about your truck at the local truck pull last weekend but had no luck getting info...sorry i will keep trying as someone has to remember it

cancel that its Pick up trucks. lucky I called to check on what they ment by "trucks" oh well theres always next year Trent