Lmackattack

thanks for that info David..I hope this truck has not been hacked into much!!!

> I saw some louse wires behind the gauge but near the sending unit/prob port the wires were missing. I will have to dig vor them tomorrow. I think this truck had a kisor alarm unit also so I will have to figure that out as well...

I have a volt meter so I will check the cab system volts tomorrow. My mack dealer said the truck came factory with a Electric temp gauge. At some point it was replaced with a PAI mechanical?. Time to go back stock!

hmmm...dont know how its wired up..all I know is the gauge shows 24v. all the other macks I have been in had the standard 12V gauge and 12v start? thanks for looking into it tho.

Truck sounds good John. I just got a friends V8 Superliner running today. It had been sitting idle for 2 years. I put 4 new batterys in, new fuel filters, fresh fuel, cracked the injectors and she fired right off. sadly it has dual mufflers but it still felt good to get her running again..

I got the presser washer ready for tomorrow so I will be able to see better if it has a crows foot. that sure will make life easy if it does!!!! The truck has four 12V batterys but the dash gauge range shows a 20V-28V range, I assume its a 24v truck? with the lights only running off 12V? Vin number is 1M2AY12Y7MM005499 BUILT 5-90 DELIVERED 6-90 Finished by R.G. smith Desplaines IL 450HP V8 with a mack 13 speed 38K camelbacks.

Been working on the old Superliner and need to replace the tach drive. I have not washed the engine so its kinda oily down near the tach drive. Looking down there I cant see how it is held in place. I can see one nut on top but not sure if thats all that holds it on ? Hope its as simple as one nut and it pulss out? is it that simple???????? also this truck is 24V, equipped with a mechinal water temp gauge. Would I need a special "24v" water temp gauge and sending unit if I converted it to electrical? right now the mechinal gauge is installed with the probe in the water housing / probe lead runs back to the dash gauge. Its not working and would like to replace it with a electric unit as you can just run wires instad of the thicker mechincal probe lead... Trent

Thats a very nice looking superliner.. but that trailer...um,a...yea Seriously tho... you did a great job on both models.. I have a small collection of 1/25 and 1/24 Semi trucks as well. mostly macks... I use to buy all my stuff from a company called spalding trading and shipping? they delt with lots of aftermarket parts from all over the world. I think the internet dug into their buisness as last I checked they had very few parts or models in stock trent

thanks David I will chase the dimmer-headlamp wires....

Chasing a wireing problem on my RS. I have Hi beams but no low beams. I flip the dash switch up and my center cab lights go on but I have no low beams. Step on the Dimmer switch and the hi beams come on.. Power is at the dash and at the floor dimmer switch, when I step on the dimmer switch it does move the power to both terminals for hi beam and then back to just one terminal for low beams. I think I lost power between the dimmer or the dash switch. I say this because I cant locate the low beam power at the terminal strip on the fire wall.Hi beam power is there.. Im Not sure how the the wires run between the dash,dimmer and fire wall... any hints.....

thats got to hurt mack. Pendot has to be the largest buyer of their plow speced trucks. I think AZ has some but not as many. IH is the leader by far....

Yeah stupid snow....we got about 5-6" of snow overnight. Went to a Friends Christmas party, left at midnight and Hit a deer on the way home. It was on a 2 lane road farm fields on both sides of the 55 mph street. I was doing around 60MPH snow was falling hard,roads were covered but I have snow tires and the car just grips the road with ease..I saw the deer out of the corner of my eye at the last sec. He took a leap out into the road and bam! never even slowed. never lifted. Shes screaming thinking were about to crash off the road. I had to let her know it ok to to open her eyes. WERE NOT CRASHING, no blood and were not stopping. Im laughing and shes crying LOL. We hit him with the left front of her LexusIS250. Deer luckly he went flying over the car and did no damage to the windshield or window frames. Hood,bumper,and headlight took the hit, Windshield washer tank cracked, hope thats all. Funny part is she demanded we take her car out last night instead of mine!!!!!

yeah... lets confuse the crap out of it. how about we go back to 10 on 8 off?

yes they can, if the radiator is out it also makes life easy. and IMO with the truck that far torn down its a lot less work to pull both at the same time. Think ahead and make 2 support legs to bolt into the LH/RH rear trans/motor mounts so that you can put the engine/trans down on the ground and it wont try to roll to the sides. I have pulled 2 b model engines out... Diesels/quadbox and both times they came out easy with them bolted up. they are heavy tho. a small bob cat will not lift it. you will need a rubber tire loader or a backhoe. I would not use an engine hoists unless its HD and can get some reach safely

if the cab and front sheet metal is off its easy.. pretty much like a 350 chevy. remove wires, exhaust, driveshaft, put a chain around the rear mounts and use the head bolts for a front mount. some had hooks up on the head bolts already... Triangel the chains. pull it up and out...easy with all the other stuff out of the way

speaking of bottle rockets...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wg5CgNx_sJI

Heck....they all ride nice when your at 80K gross. LOL

Mark the first time I ever remember seeing a MH it had a paint job just like yours. I remember it well because there was 2 of them ,same paint job, and both were pulling an end dump. They were working near a creek that passed under a major roadway in town. the trucks were backing off the road and down to near the edge of the creek. Problem was the cabovers were to tall to fit under the bridge to get to the backhoe. The R models fit under just fine LOL...Sharp trucks but not the best for construction LOL

RW613... thats the nicest MH I have ever seen. that is a truck that gets noticed. Bet it passes alot of them up also if the pump has been adjusted...

OH GOD if the drivers of Today were in a cab over I would say the Drivers death rates would double! I really feel bad for the good ones out there. they just stay quiet and dont interact like they used to. Seams the last few years I cant even get a bear report or a reply even after I give one. I rarely get a flash of the lights after I pass a truck at night.

yep. regaedless of function,looks,or wheelbase the last thing I want to be is the first person at the accident. and if we want to talk about looks. thats easy....everyone has their own opinions on what looks good and what is ugly

thought that was his name. I think I met him once when I was traveling thru NM I think he came down to the interstate to meet me. may have sold him a bumper or something?

dont forget about the Rmodel window crank, I think they copied that design from the B model?? LOL

Chicago still has a good handfull of R models running around but I have not seen a B model that was working on the road in 3 years. in the past 8 years Most of the big construction fleets switched to Pete or KW when they bought their last round of new trucks . Even Meyer meterial went to KW after being pretty much 100% Mack. they had a few Fords and some Oskosh from the mid 90s but the DMs and R models were there truck of choice untill recently. Seams like every year I see less and less macks around here. on the bright side I still see a few large fleets that have bought some new Macks for lowboy use.

hmmm... your glove box door (back side) does not have the diagram of relays and such.. I think that was the factory location for some of the newer R models? . What about your tail lights do they go off when the relay trips?. just trying to isolate where to look. one other option is to go straight to the junction block on the outside fire wall. find the terminal to the roof lights and see if putting power directly to them lights them up. check the tail lights and gauge lights at the same time. if you can get them to lite up from the junction block that would suggest the short is between the relay panel and switch or from a bad wire in the dash. most of the electrical issues I have had were ground issues or a louse wire behind the dash.