R.E.D

Found the issue ..3 ecm pins have completely eroded off ..need a new ecm

After cleaning.im getting a " no info" on the dash.could the ecm be fried?

Found the bottom ecm connector full of coolant and grime.hopefully that solves it

I'm reviving this old tread because I'm having this same issue with the CV.Code 6-4. Last night I was on a job and truck started acting up. At first it seemed like the fitting on top of the oil filter housing had rubbed the insulation on the harness for the ecm.the fitting was kinda eaten up on one corner like if it had been shorting against something. I wrapped up everything in electrical tape yet issue still persist albeit less often than before.also top ecm connector had some oil . would this cause it to loose connection? What's the best way to clean up these connectors and pins? Thanks Red

I used a caliper micrometer to measure the ring and it was about 15mm .I built up the material in the fork and then ground it down to around 14.8 mm to give it some breathing room. The fork originally had a thickness of around 10.5 mm , those extra 4.5 was the needed push to make the low range clutch engage.

Update..I stick welded the worn part of the shift fork and built it back up... transmission is running like a champ now...I'mma start looking for a suitable replacement , preferably a 8ll . Thanks to all of yall . Red

I have owned the truck since late last year and it always had that symptom.the transmission seems to have been rebuilt not long ago by weller.it has a Weller tag.i will call them and see if it may have warranty or at least a quote on repairs.

I will do that.by chance does anyone have pai part numbers for these two items ?local mack wants 488$ for shift fork alone.thanks

Finally got back from a much needed vacation and got to work on the transmission.took the rear cover off and below are the pictures of what seems to be the culprit. Not sure what the specifications are for shift fork wear but this one seems to be very worn.please advice. Thanks Red

I personally prefer a wider tire because it allows me to "float" easier in rough terrain due to the increased surface area.also at least in my area it's also a dot deterrent.they see a quad axle truck with thinner tires and automatically assume your overweight in your steer axle , even though 315 are usually rated at 10k lbs just like 385 or 425.and once your pulled over and noticed your not overweight they find an excuse to issue warnings and fines.but like I said , this is in my area.

I have the flat faced rims with no offset and had to downsize from the 425 tires the truck came with when I bought it because it would hit the pitman arm.now with 385 it kinda wants to hit if my load is not spread correctly and if too much weight is at the front .I would like to change to some rims with some offset to remedy this , but too much offset defeats the purpose of the fender flares and the tires will sling mud up the side of your cab.

Best way I found on my Rd was to turn passenger front wheel all the way to the right.then I would sit on the floor and get better leverage from below .but it was still a pita.

I hate to loose the multi speed reverse along with not keeping the truck original but in the long run Eaton Fuller parts and service are faster and cheaper than Mack .(at least in area). As soon as I come back from vacation , I'll look into the 8ll and keep the t310m as a back.(I plan to repair it properly once the slow season kicks in).I have Eaton Fuller cores at the yard so I won't have to turn the t310m in . I also have drive shafts to cut to lenght since I think the 8ll is probably shorter.

Ok will do.worst case scenario only the back box needs to be removed correct?

Can this be addressed from the outside or does the tail has to come of to change seal?

Can this be addressed from the outside or does the tail has to come of to change seal?

I'll also drain the oil and see what comes out.when the gear does seem to work sometimes it pops out with a tremendous noise and jolt that is felt in the cab.then I'm left at a green light trying to panic shift.

Hello fellas. The t310m in the granite is grinding while in gear and truck won't move while in low range.it just sits there and grinds similar to trying to engage a PTO without first pressing the clutch.it used to be an intermittent issue , but now it has gotten progressively worse these past few days.trans is not the original t310m from factory since it has a Weller tag on its side.there is no one really dedicated to rebuilding mack transmissions in my area and I'm leaning towards an 8ll swap.i guess my question is if the issue described could be something simple or if the Eaton swap is a better option. PS :I have done mack to Eaton swaps before so I know what I'm in for. thanks Red

I did run into hard starting situation but for the remainder of the week I would pump the hand primer until hard and it would crank and studder.i could not have the one truck down that week and anyway the pump was not in town.i was Lucky no shavings got thru the fuel filter otherwise all the injectors would have been FUBAR. and thanks again to all of you who take the time to help a bulldog when it's sick.😁

Hello fellas. Quick update.Since replacing fuel pump truck has gained about 0.3 mpg .I guess the fuel pump is one of those things we have to throw a gauge in once in a while to make sure we are up to spec on pressure.for a sec I couldn't believe it but I started noticing that I could get a couple of extra loads with the same amount of fuel .😁

I believe these are it

I'm surprised truck ran at all with that kind of pump failure!