R.E.D
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Everything posted by R.E.D
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I will do that.thanks
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Can anyone help in getting a part number for the headlight bucket in the picture.or at least a vin i can give to mack dealer in order for them to order it.thanks Red
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So i finally get around to getting these headlight buckets for the truck but my local mack dealer cant pull up the vin in the picture above..they say its missing a number ...but how can that be?
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What tube are you referring to?
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I Put everything back and ran it at highway speeds ..opened hood and no oil dripping or bathing anything...hopefully it was a one time thing..while installing I noticed the manifold gasket from cylinder 1 and 5 wet .therefore I believe those two were the culprit.i will keep an eye on this and prepare for a head rebuild.
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Blow by is not alot.just drips from the breather tube when run hard for a while.im on my way now to yard to put everything back together and will drive it for 20miles to see if under boost the situation changes.
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Air filter is two weeks old.so does this mean I gotta tear right in or could it run like this for a while?
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And also ..could this be the culprit of the additional oil it's been using lately?and drops out of blowby tube?I don't think is burning it since I don't smell that strong Burt oil smell that yells "overhaul".
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Well ...it did run quite some time .so if is put back together it should be OK while under load?if it is possible I would like to run it.this upcoming week is the first in Houston with no heavy rain after the floods and would like to catch up on some overdue jobs.On the other hand I'm not the type to risk additional engine damage.
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While at the yard today I was using the air tanks to power some impact guns.I had the engine running at around 1200rpms off the cruise control for like 45 mins.When I go to shut her down I notice the exhaust side of turbo is bathing in oil.Pull turbo off thinking it was shot and to my surprise both outlets of the exhaust manifold were wet with oil.I ran the truck without turbo at around 1200 rpm for 45 seconds and more oil started to wet the inside of the outlet of the manifold.I would like to know what this could be and how to fix it.96 rd 350hp . thanks RED
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Where can.i can a monometer test?
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Compressor is fairly new and no oil on the air tanks or dryer.im guessing if it is the turbo , I can just simply remove the pipe from compressor to charged air cooler and see the oil if seals are gone?
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Well kinda yes and no.i test drove and after seeing how bad the blow by was I asked them to overhaul it .not sure what parts were used .before the overhaul the blowby smoke could be seen from inside the cab when stopped at a light. It also had that burnt oil smell which is very distinctive.
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For the past 3 days I have been running the truck fairly harder than usual. Averaging 58000 gross weight and doing 60 to 70 mph.Since I have 4.17 ratio truck was running at around 1600 to 1700 rpm.Once parked i saw the breather dripping and some drops on the ground and oil was way low....is this normal or am I looking at an inframe?Truck was inframed 60,000 miles ago.
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Thanks for the great info fellas . found the problem to be one of the two sets of cable wrapped with foil . replace it and truck running like champ now.
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So which one is the j1939.is it connected to the vecu?or the one next to it?there are two cables that are wrapped individually with some kinda foil on the inside of the plastic lining.they go to a 3 prong connector.are thy it?.is there an easier way to troubleshoot?thanks Red
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So while I was driving down the road the truck lost throttle.The pedal is completely dead along with the rpm gauge.Fault code is 6-4.I checked the connectors in the abs computer near the injector and the vecu in the cab.both show no corrosion. Also the triangle connector coming out the firewall.truck is idling higher than normal and the key won't shut the engine off until 15 to 20 second after the key is in the off position.Please advice on what further steps can be taken.truck is 98 ch 355hp
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Circuit breaker diagram?? 04 690s
R.E.D replied to jmb4wd's topic in Electrical, Electronics and Lighting
Sorry to hijack...j Hancock would you happen to have a 98 ch fuse box diagram? -
I was referring to the lift/transfer pump.the hand primer I replaced about 3 months ago since (57 bucks at mack) it was leaking when pushed and truck was dying on the middle of the freeway due to air in the lines.
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No connection.Found in Houston Craiglist.Looks clean.Factory 427 .
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I thank everyone for their replies and input. This whole week is been in the low 50s .Everytime I get to the yard I have been pumping the hand primer and the old dog has been starting.i have been looking at a lift pump online made by PAI.I would like to know what you guys think of that brand when it comes to mack.Are they a quality replacement part provider for our trucks?i have bought some items in the past made by them in the local truck parts store (Mack dealer is 40 miles from me at Mcarty) and the salesmen say they are great , but I know they say what they need to say in order to sell.
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The lift and transfer pump are they the same thing?I'm guessing it's the one that the hand primer screws into.the shutoff valve I'm assume will go before the pump?
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How would I know if I have a kysor system.the only override button I have is the one for the engine shutdown override. The hand primer was soft, but not that soft like when fresh filters are installed and one has to pump for ever to get it to be stiff.
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As gearhead204 said the lines are old .I will start there then tackling the wet spots on the fuel lines.i have no blink codes except the 1-7 because of a bad coolant sensor connector.
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Since it rained today I dropped by the yard to see if any leaks in the fuel lines were present. Before cranking I pumped the hand prime pump like ten times until it got real stiff. Then I cranked it for about 8 seconds and it started.it ran rough for first 3 seconds with white smoke and then it ran normal.
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