R.E.D
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Everything posted by R.E.D
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How much mph would I be loosing...the truck is very fast off a start...my brother in my ch 427 cant even give pose a challenge. .I like that ability of a 350 leaving higher hp trucks in the dust..
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I checked the location and it seems like I have 4.17 rears...are these considered high or low? Could I swap them for ones that are a lil bit more dirt friendly...truck is 96 rd688s. T2090
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great thanks I will check it out!
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I know this has been thrown around plenty ...but where exactly is the tag in the axle that contains the gear ratio..im swapping my rear diff for one that has been factory drilled and tapped for the transverse torque rod bracket and I would like to be able to check the ratio in the axle that I plan to buy in order to match it to the ratio in the front diff.... Im doing this cuz it would be easier and cheaper to go to the scrap yard and swap the owner my working diff for one his ..just would have to pay a lil difference in price but definitely cheaper than drilling and tapping... Also since im just swapping the diff itself and not the whole axle , would this be a direct drop in fitment or the axle and diff have changed over the years?.would I have to buy a corresponding 1996 model diff since that's the year model of the truck? Please advice RED Ps:Picture is off the web and not the exact diff I would be buying.
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I have the sam3 issue..need transverse torque rod and bracket
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I Migth have used the wrong terms...but my rd has a cylindrical tank perpendicular to the frame..it sits outside of the frame and has a drain valve at the bottom...when I pull on this valve the grayish muck comes out
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Oh and I solved the no start issue with the battery and by not filling up both fuel tanks to the neck. ..leaving no space for proper breath2
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Guys thanks for the awesome advice. .However I think I found the culprit to the oil consumption ..and it was right under my eyes... everytime I would purger the air drier by the purge valve I get a 6inch splatter of grayish muck...after close examination I saw the it was oil..and lots of it...seems like air compressor is a goner and will need rebuilding or replacing....I also saw oil coming out of one the rear brake chambers. .. I reckon I purge the truck 6 times a day on a regular bases...each time about an ounce of muck comes out multiply this weekly and u get more than a gallon...this explains why it takes so long to build up air...my 427 ch build in no time and they idle at the same rpm...please advise
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yup it does suck...this is a very solid dog and its a shame that it ran so long with low or no boost...who knows how much debris settled in the engine....
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Enviorement is extrenely thick with dust and shifting did suck...it would take high rpms to shift in a split second. ..and yes there was a thin film of grit that had settled in the charge air cooler pipes...and it seems the hole was there for a good while too ...some genius had tried covering it with fiberglassand resin...I took it of and made short work of the hole with my arc welder and aluminium electrodes. .
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I will have this test done.charge air cooler was relatively dry..I had it welded the other day since it had a penny size hole where one of the mounting brackets had broke off...today I bought a battery since it was just running on 3...this should help with the no start issue since the 3 batteries seemed to weak to spin engine fast enough to build compression............ Jakebrake86 I definitely agree with u ..I would like to run it til she gives up but since I might be putting a driver on her I would like her to be in good shape. ! Since we all know that many drivers dont give a s### about equipment ...
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i would like to check the compression on all the cylinders first since this is no easy task or bill...my local mack dealer quoted me 3800 for parts and 5500 in labor ..not including tax
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my tanks are the 75 gallon aluminum ..I can see the botton clearly even when full if it had oil the diesel could be darkened by the oil contamination ...could it be that I used a thin oil for the mileage 15w40?I was told by a old timer that that could be the issue...
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I would rather rebuild all while the engine is apart.Also whats the best way to test compression and where could I obtain compression tolerance numbers?
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Since I bought the rd I fixed minor details that are normal with an used truck but now I might be over my head.. Truck seems to consume lots of oil ...as much as 1 gallon a week....!! It does not have any engine leaks ,it does not smoke much and it gets the same gas mileage as my 98 ch613.(which only has 300k & its very fuel efficient) In the past cold mornings it has refused to start but with ether and I have begun to think that since it has 614,000 miles and 24000 engine hours it might be time for an overhaul. Truck runs like a champ like the rest of the bull dogs in my small fleet yet this issue concerns me. What is the best way to go about repairing the engine and since I assume its a bad compression issue due to worn rings or sleeves , what kits are available to fix this issue. 1996 rd688s , 350hp coupled to a 9 speed maxi. PS:On mornings with normal temp the truck cranks and fires unenvenly for two secs and it goes on to normal idling.Also al filters changed 3 weeks ago.. Please help!! RED
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Plenty of mack lovers in tx , I would pick it myself but I need the budget to get my RD back into shape ....the tranverse rod and bracket that I need is not cheap and im having a lil bit of trouble finding a used one..
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I will look into it...gonna see if I can arrage towing at a reasonable price
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I spoke to the guy...since hes only 15 miles away from...he wants it gone asap and wont part out...im in need of a transverse torque rod and bracket...
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Sure right bout the numnuts in chief messing up the coal industry...lost big in stocks when Obama was re-elected
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Had the same issue with my truck a month back...same symptons...I was without work for a month ...ended up being the ecm...pickup up a used one for 800 bucks after I plugged it in and fired right up...lik3 the guys said...source out an ecm from a buddy and try it..even if it dont have the same power ratin it should start ...then you can go off from there....also make sure you unplug batteries when dealin with the ecm...
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You guys have done it again!!! Thanks for all the support and help...I will start searching salvage yards for a set up like this...thanks a bunch..!!......RED
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Oh man!! I definitely dont have that..that seems like it would solve the whole issue
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Can anyone post a pic of how the torque rod sits as installed in a truck...and how much am I looking at for that part.Part # 9 is severely worn where the arrow is pointing , all four of them!!...can I just run a couple weld beads to return is shape or it would not matter after the torque rod is in place.. (fyi the diagram above I took off the web to show what I was trying to say, its not an exact representation off what is in the truck). thanks in advance RED
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ok will do first thing when I get to the yard..will keep ya posted...
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As I mentioned before on a different tread...I purchase truck in avatar because I believe it was a great set up for the work I do.96 rd688 with a 9 speed maxitorque..my rear suspensions has a lot of side to side travel when taking a turn (as much a 6")...Thinking it would solve the prob I had the trunnion bushings replaced along with the rubber supports for the springs..but still the issue persists mostly when making a right turn....Also it looks like previous owner ran truck with bad trunnion bushings for a good while cuz all the four botton caps (see pic below) are busted in from the spring constant rubbing.Trunion has no outside cap so im guessing its 38k but im not sure.truck has a very short wheelbase which I believe contributed to this whole deal.Im running out of options and don't relly feel like spending another grand on parts and labor...things got so bad that chassis smacked against a axle side cover and cut a whole in it and oil was everywhere..please advice on this matter. thanks for your support RED
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