Red Horse

Guys, thank you all for taking the time to respond

Trent- 4.60, not 4.90 The truck has 11:00 x 24's so as I do the math, with 4.60 gears at 2100 its good for 61.9 vs about 68.4 for 4.17's The 4.17's would probably be better because at say 1950, I would be doing about 63- and if I saw a "large car" bearing down on me in the mirror, it should do 68! The issue is I can find a 4.60 CRD 62's or CRD 118's are tough to find. My bigger question is are all the mounts different and am I into drilling new holes etc??

Guys, My B has a Maxidyne that someone installed with a Duplex. (Truck was originally a B-60X). Also 9.05 Gears in a 29,000 rear. I'm thinking I'd like to put a 6 speed in to really take advantage of the Maxidyne. Any words of wisdom out there from those that have done it? I would also probably change the rear to a 4.60.

Guys, My instrument cluster has one light- the fuel gauge is a S-W and has a light bulb pocket in it. What is the best way to light the others? I have another panel that I took out of a parts truck and it looks like it might have had two separte bulb pockets that filtered light through the slots in the top of the gauge case? That it?

Fred, Well I got underneath it. And it is in fact a TRD 720. Like I said, I will use this truck (has an 8 yard box on it) so I guess I show it some respect and keep my fingers crossed. Your Maxi/Duplex is a tractor and do you ever pull any weight?

Fred, thx for info- yes it does shift differently- and in particular going down, RPM's are very critical- 4th to 5th is much easier with the clutch and a quick shift. I remember a long time ago when the Maxidynes first came out, and guys were used to Roadrangers, our fleet instructor would tell them- "just like a waltz- slow and one, two"And you are observant. Ive been trying to get a two other B's together and the WOT came out- I recognized the phone exchange and the barn in the background- 25 years ago I used to take my kids past the barn where this local contractor had a fleet of B's Same trucks! The B-75 sold the next day. Been 20 years since I lived there-some things you don't forget. These trucks were still working and well cared for by an owner (and his father before him) who cared about equipment. Now the wife is leaning on me to get rid of the other two as I "have my truck"

thx O'dog- and it works! did three loads this weekend.

Thx Fred, bottom line, you are shifting the mainfirst and then the compound? None of this two handed stuff?

Paul, Doug Fetterly, 315-543-2624, 14203 Parks Rd., Harrisville, NY 13648 I got his card at Macungie last year

One other thing. The rear is a 9.05 ratio so that puts a lot less strain on the rest of the driveline vs. having a faster ratio.

Mike, hand brake gone, has Maxi's. And my issue is trying to do a split shift without a lot of gear clash or a lot of lost momentum. And as it is a Maxidyne, it sure doesn't need 10 ratios but it is nice to have the option to split a gear or two.

Larry- this truck was used up until two years ago with that powertrain-again, owner operated and I'm sure that has something to do with it surviving.

[attachm nt=4183:B60XBolton_001.jpg]Guys, I probably should get under this and read the numbers. the truck is a 56 and my guess is that somewhere along the line, someone yanked the gas motor and stuck a 673/Duplex in it. I have the build sheet but the original box could not have survived with the 673. I'm told that around 79, they put the Maxi in it. I believe it has a 10 speed- not a low hole six. And I agree that as the Maxi was designed to run from 1200 to 2100, the splits in the 10 speed were designed for a 400 rpm band- not 900. Again, assuming I want to split as conditions dictate, what is smoothest way? move main first or compound? And I intend to use this truck- with the respect a 53 year old truck is due.

How about some help. I have a Duplex behind a Maxidyne. I just got thr truck and have basically been driving it as a six speed. Any and all suggestions on properly shifting a Duplex would be aprreciated. I think the 1200-2100 rpm band makes splitting this a bit more difficult.

mack.museum@macktrucks.com

Ever try sending those numbers to Don Schumaker at Mack Museum?

Ok Guys, any thoughts?. About to sand blast my B chassis. FA-522 front axle and RAD 111 rear. 24" My question is, given the fact this thing is a 1960, what parts would you think would likely require replacememt- other then the obvious of linings, hoses diaphrams. I have a new set of Maxi's for the rear. I'm asssuming things like slack adjusters, shoes, bushings etc should stillbe available? Anythoughts would be appreciated. I'm not doing this yself so I have tothink about trade off of labor vs new etc.

Thx guys for the responses.

Any suggestios on best way to fix up a couple of cracks? Worst is about an 1/8". Typical B lime green. thx

Hey guys, thanks again

Paul, Larry, Thanks for the responses. Will look at both options. Bob

Guys, I want to convert my B to an alternator and get rid of the series parallel switch. I'm swapping cabs so all of the current wiring is junk. I assume if I buy a harness from say Top-O Hill or any other supplier, I will be getting a lot of stuff I don't need given the conversion to an alternator. Any thoughts? I have to believe many of you have "been there-done that"!

Guys, thank you all for your responses. Lizardskin looks pretty good, but as with so many of these things, a little creativity goesa long way. For example, I'm thinking Lizardskin on everything then perhaps plain syrofoam sheet on the cab back panel and even above in the headliner? Or if you are not talking about moving parts (doors) even expanding foam? As log as you don't get the kind that has too high an expansion rate