h67st

Swish, I never thought of greasing the pins at each lock but it sure makes sense! I did that on my H, now I just need to get it driveable so I can try it.

So, if it sets the spring brakes, why does it say "not for parking"?

Swishy, that flip lever valve you showed is made by Bendix, they call it a TC-4 (part number 282368 or 282382) and they say it's for controlling the spring brakes. I've got a question...this valve was in one of my trucks, I didn't chase the air lines to see what it does. Can someone tell me what it's for?

In Atlanta, starting bid $4,500. Looks pretty rough but you sure ain't gonna find many of these for sale! https://www.ebay.com/itm/144070295088?hash=item218b423e30:g:M4IAAOSwkFBgwUsD&vxp=mtr

I used the schematic in this Bendix brake handbook to help with plumbing the system. I'm using Bendix valves because they're very common and cheap. dcweasel is correct about the anti-compounding, especially if you have aluminum spiders like mine. I used a QR-1C quick release valve on my rear axle to achieve the anti-compounding. For my spring brakes, I used Haldex GC2024 which have a #20 service side and a #24 spring side. They are $92.00 with free shipping from Finditparts.com. They are adequate for a bobtail hobby truck, not sure about hauling freight with them. I rotated my spiders one bolt hole to get them away from the frame rail, but they are only about 3/4" away from the 10:00-20 rims (you'd have more clearance if you went with tubeless or 10:00-22). 1837032478_BendixAirBrakeHandbook2002.pdf

I tried to move mine with rear driveshaft removed, no go.

CAC = charge air cooler (aftercooler). Before you start changing expensive parts, I'd check the transfer pump and check valves real close.

Snowman, that is a fine-looking Ford. Eastbound and down!!

There's a lot of real estate on that truck until you get inside the cab!!

The colors are great, I like the contrasting 5th wheel.

Man, those parts look good! You're right about how much room they take up, I've got parts stashed all over my shop!

I got my treadle valve back today. I couldn't find one reman or new but I found Precision Rebuilders in Missouri will rebuild them for $187.00. The nice thing is they had it back to me in one week, so many other things I've had done take months to get back. It's a Bendix type D or D-1 (not sure which), part number is 223192.

If you're getting fuel out of the lines when you pump the hand primer, then it's not a fuel issue.

That 10qk332a is the same insulator that went on the front of my H67 leaf springs. PAI makes them also, $40 each.

I looked on the Loctite page and they recommend using 660, it's supposedly made for building up worn bores. Since it's a hobby truck hopefully that will work. I'm going to have to measure the spread like Rob said.

I'm with you, seems like with all the stress between engine and transmission an iron housing would be best.

Some of my yokes have a little slop where the cap goes in, I'm looking for ways to tighten them up. What about using bearing mount on them when I put them together? Any other ideas for a fix?

Before you remove the dowel pins, clean everything and install dry like Vmac3 says. Check the runout, if it's within spec you're good. If not, follow Vmac3's instructions. I had a bar made at a machine shop to bolt to the crank that held my drill good and square.

According to Freightliner, the Powerliner came out in 1973.

The check valves are in the lift pump; if you replaced the whole pump that would fix them. My hand primer pump was bad, causing loss of prime but maybe you already replaced it. I found my leak by removing the lines at the fuel tank, plugging them off, and putting 10 psi air into them...fuel started seeping out of the primer so that showed where the problem was.

I found my front driveshaft had eaten a u-joint at some point before I got the truck and they put a new joint in even though the bore was trashed. The driveshaft shop found a new yoke, replaced the tube, and balanced it, all for about $250 so not too bad. The 1710 u-joints were $55 each.

I'm with you on the looks of the 10:00-20, I think the vintage look is cool. The lock rings and tubes are a hassle, but I'm still going to run them on my truck. I agree with others that radial steers/bias drives should be no problem.

I'd hate to be in that thing in a wreck!!

I put the cab on the other day, here's a video of the process.