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Chances are you have a failed EGR cooler ! usually the mass flow and the cooler will be changed at the same time! is the unit using any coolant?if the cooler looks like it has been replaced and the mass flow wasn't changed the code will remain! Another thing to note these engines were not horribly fuel efficient to start with! A guy Could lighten the situation You would need to make plate for beneath the egr valve an plug the coolant off to the cooler! Down sid is the malfunction light stays lit all the time and you won't know when important shit is going wrong!

Never done this! However Thought about it several times! I think all a guy has to do is cap the oil supply line off(The econovance is spring loaded to the off position anyway) no pressure no advance ! and then tri and pick a suitable timing to to run it at So Say roughly 20 -22 degrees!Just my thoughts on it By no means Fact! Just a guess!

If it had a v8 in it origana1ly chances are the the cat would shoe horn in there R700 Had a longer hood to accommodate the v8 and jober engines!As Terry mentioned R 600 Naw to much messin around!

I like to work them a week or two then recheck em!Just me!Some guys don't retorque! What ever works for ya!

Yup good Job John! were all happy to lend a hand if we can as was stated thats what its all about! Long as the pistons are all installed with front facing front your good to go!

Milkmans suggestion top of the heep! Heres other stuff to try Lock out the interaxle diff See if it changes! = Tires size! Equal ?! Rest your foot Foot on the clutch pedal Listen to see if the noise is still there looking for worn linkage! check the trans tail shaft for tightness ! Ujoints loose ? Rims Are they Steel Buds? = check for cracked rims! Lots of places to look! Last but not least chec the diff plugs see if there is metal in the oil If there is lost of metal on an plug magnet you may have a failing diff! Not uncommon to have crown gear bolts break! Just sayin!

Yup Believe its meant to be high temp !

Big John! This may be off the mark Here but I am going to post it anyway! Early in the evolution of the drive by wire engines, to skirt regulations, manufacturers Were duel Mapping the softwear,If you were light on the throttle it went down the Bulldog bunny trail loafing along ,If you were aggressive with the pedal it would take the Bigdog road map for hills ! Point being ! Im wondering if you have a programing issue or self training issue , And you need to be driving with a more aggressive foot! Just a thought

Also The rod cap is usually stamped with an M2 If its 2 thou under Double check your shells to be sure ! They did this some times rod by rod Worth checking! Use the mack stuff Or Permatex Ultra Gray/black works fine!

The Line is an addon for more oil flow the jake is also fed from the bottom if memory serves! Any way the jake will not be damaged it just won't operate!

Yup ! And no More than 2 thou variance between Liners Under the same Head! Also I your old Liners are at the (low spec 22) I would shim them 4 thou if the engine is 400hp or more ! That being said ! in your case It ran before with no head gasket issues It Will Probably run again fine ! just sayin

Yup Job Done!

In my opinion!No to the bolts if the cam looks good leave it ! Pay close attention to liner height try to achieve 25 or better up to 28 thou!

Yup for sure another place to look! For sure! Bogus sensor or even malfunctioning gauge!

Thats your next step then ! Check the fuel pressure under load! Should have at least 60 psi! After that you need to look into wiring The torque limit switch on the trans will hold back approx 15 psi boost if the switch or wiring is shorted and will not throw a code as the computer doesnt know there is anything wrong it just thinks its in low range!

Nice Find! Governed rpm is just that 2100 will not hurt it! Nice Find ! Likely a 300 hp! trucks built in that era were evolving to drive by wire 350hp and up! I believe 93 was the last year they offered a mech 400! Your rpm and lack of gears indicates its likely 300 maxidyne!

Yup cheers Guys! Stay safe! Hey Bull ! You appear to be drivin Volvo Trash !

Sounds like a fuel delivery issue !Check your oil level if its high the pump may be fubar! Is the primer getting hard or is it spongy if its spongy Fuel pump May be toast! However rule out the stuff given you so far! Also Did u check the ECU Plug for coolant push as directed? Its wurth a check!

Yup for sure seems They have ran off some of the good contributors here over political crap ! we need people to fill the gaps here ! I am currently around this new stuff and see the goins on but don't work on red stuff ( HAPPY NOT TO ) just( most times) a silent observer ! In the shop right now We have a mp8 unit that came in with a miss that started suddenly! down the street from the shop ! The boys pulled the valve cover to check the valve set and one of the guys have the experience of a stuck valve sure enuff, rip the head off valve is bent and the valve next to it has a third of the valve missing! Which We have seen before with MUCH larger implications Broken liners and such! Anyway the point here is It's nice that some of the new guys to the forum put forth their input and experiences Helps everyone learn and may even save some guys Bucks to keep in business ! Quite honestly these new trucks are NOT owner opp Friendly You need All the help you can get if you own one ! Thats where we come in ! So yup! V3, Joey keep up the good work ! If we all contribute we all win in some shape or form! Us old folk Like Glenn , myself and others Will hold up our end as best we can! 😇😅

The origanal E7 was definitely The better of the two But The main upgrade on the eteck came with the powerleash EB much better holding power! !

Leave em alone! Flywheel to crank bolts are 5/8 They are torqued to 180 +/- 5 or so No worries in my mind!

You'll notice that now a days you can find mostly 50/50 antifreeze no mixing required two reasons ! they make more money For sure! How ever water quality is controlled also ! With full strength your at risk of adding in unwanted minerals yada yada! Where I work we wouldn't entertain using the water with antifreeze, Just the Iron content of the water is off the scale We have a big sign on the wall DON'T DRINK THE WATER HERE! That goes for the trucks we repair as well!

Myself Long as the pistons and skirts look good I wouldn't hesitate to go the liner kit route! Also if you engine is 350 plus horse power DO NOT Atempt using low spec Shoot for any thing above 25 thou as mentioned 28 is nice if you can achieve it! And strictly adhere to the 2 thou variance between holes!Also! Suggest use a good quality Silicone permatex Ultra gray or ultra black Have also used there Anaerobic sealant works well also! Try to avoid cutting the counter bore if you can Putting down shims can be a risky business if not done correctly can backfire! before your guy up roots liners Measure where your at See what protrusion is there! Theroy here being, It ran before it will run again if were in and around the midrange spec! These Guys are putting you on the right road here Just heed the warnings! Good luck bro

Jojo you’re familiar with the pai site check there the crossover should show up there!