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The bolts are usually brass! quick and easy way is with a long chisel and a hammer!knock the nuts off!

Btdt box of parts make it run!

I can’t swear to it how ever if the part came off the engine should fit back on!

Yup I think you’re ok bro ! The gasket change was much earlier! I believe! Use the gasket that doesn’t cover any holes should be fine!

Correct are there any other symptoms you’re not saying? No accusations intended! Injector or eup orings may have been damaged on installation! The pan idea is a sound one! Part’s canon ain’t working well!leave the pan off till your done with the repair!test your work!

I would like to see a picture of your shoes I am curious because Mack at one time made their own stuff!also factory brake lining is historically hard ! It eats drums for breakfast!my bet is your drums will be over the wear limit! also the afore mentioned driver can make all the difference! In my final years at the truck shop I I mainly did truck inspections I had fleet customer that brought trucks to the shop he had bought three new western star trucks he had one driver that used I assume his trailer brakes all the time! The paint was still on the drums after three years and 200000 kms so they are out there!Just few and far between!

Absolutely not the shop had one me never used it!11/8 wrench my thumb and a screw driver! We also had the high pressure timer only used that a couple of times to labour intensive! I like quick and easy! Blo time for me mostly cause I was usually some where in timbuckto and just had to get it done!

Teacher’s assistant will add a suggestion! I always try to Aline the doweled splines with the out side mounting bolt and the spline cutout with the bolt hole on the pump housing! Also the big plug there was used in conjunction with the tang drive it was eventually done away with soon after the tang drive was deleted! The fiber drive I believe was introduced to quiet things down ! Same as it was on the compresor! Note! I have seen one of these break before should always check them for cracks on the back side! you pump shop likly did that !The coupler is keyed on that pump Robert Bosch not keyed! That is when you could use the jig! It can also be done on the engine with out the jig it was just another cash grab essential tool. Much like the lash tool for the dyna yard! Improvise folks!

Any time bro ! Just message me if you run into grief! All gooder happy to help!Also my self I like to blow time it’s a lot less messy! Same process just have to make a hose to connect to the inlet blo on it till you feel it stop a little fuel on the outlet you watch the for the bubbling to stop and your good to go!🙄

Joey I added to the post! That’s on the engine yes double check your set by backing up the instant the flow stops is port closing! The coupling drive should be doweled and a tooth notched out for it!

Joey check it first ! remove no 1 delivery valve re assemble without the spring and valve snug the nut set engine close to the timing mark in engine rotation pump the primer once fuel is flowing turn the engine till fuel stops flowing at the no 1 line outlet where it stops is where its timed! If you need to change it set the engine on the timing mark loosen the slotted bolts on the pump gear and turn the pump shaft with the same procedure in engine rotation when the flo stops it’s where you need to be!

Yup what he said!

53 litres in that pan bro !

Joey ! Very possible you could try! How ever they hardly ever fail in my experience the bearings I mentioned are more common to fail! You quite welcome to give it a try! Another common leak is the low shift rail seal above the input shaft there!

You got to split the trans leave it alone! You’re going to have to build a special tool if you want to try removing it in the case! That bearing is usually pressed on apart ! Some Movement is normal there it’s a ball bearing! just saying if it doesn’t look pitted inside race don’t be bothered! Thous rarely fail ! Common failures are the two upper back ones and the pocket bearing you can’t see mid case on the main shaft!

Bro ! you need to provide us with the engine your working on ! 300 350 400 ! Valves set inlet 16 and 24 exhast on most every Mack engine! jakes are set by model number ! Provide us with some info!

Thanks for the heads up Joey ! ! Try to shed so light ! The aforementioned orings are highly suspect! If it has plastic line check them also any thing with that oring with a squeeze nut on it also suspect the primer it self has to seal properly as well!anything on the drain side of the pump before the check valve on the right rear corner of the pump! Needs to be checked! Happy hunting Mechohaulic! 😂😇

Use the firing order valve set marks at on the flywheel thru the peek hole on the bottom of the engine housing!

Well I’m sorry the pump didn’t correct this! Also I’m wondering if you’re vehicle ecu is at fault here or the plug were it enters the cab! Like Joey mentioned check the wires! Bulk head plug as well on the firewall!

Heinz if you came to me and told me you needed the job done out of warranty! You would be given the choice of which part required replacing and the possible implications of not doing said items and let the customer decide! If if I hated the guy I would allow him some grace! Most times!😇as for the valve cover gasket that’s an ass cover deal and that could also be in his court ! just sayin

Do even replace the Valve cover gasket? 600 bucks for two wine corks Pretty pricey bandaid! For a mistake on the engineering side! Something that should have been a recall! Much like the bull gear feasco! If it doesn’t break before warranty is up don’t fix it!Volvo trash!

Yup you could be putting 2000 in you’re jeans buddy ! Or you can go home with a clear conscience! you chose right!

Pot calling the kettle black buddy! Just sayin!😇 Hint also if you want a little more just remove the drain T and stretch the spring! Thou 15 plus is adequate for almost any horsepower engine below 350!

yes 15 to 30 20 is perfect!

Thank you for posting your fix ! well done!