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You have all the tools you need! man 11/8 wrench a flat blade screw driver and your thumb!

I am also a an auto slack hater just an excuse for dumb ass people to not know what to do in some cases these guys are hearding tanker bombs down the highway if they are relying on auto slacks that aren’t working they are flirting with everyone’s life!

Agreed long stroke should be mandatory in my mind! More room for error if the driver doesn’t know how to look at brakes! No need to have brake checks if people don’t know what they’re looking at!

yes bro! running Bad timing can cause this to! this engine has appeared to have run low on coolant the liners are All scuffed and the end result it took out the bottom end! Just abused ! In my opinion in order of failure> Valve seat dropped they kept running it and then it likley cracked a liner and lost coolant and over heated kept running it GAME OVER! Seized a rod! So many things can compound when a seat drops and you keep running it If your luck you don't grenade The engine like this one! Most often when these seats dropped it happens as your shutting the engine down it leaves just enough time for a piece to fall out so when you go to start up next cycle your engine has a pounding knocking noise! and you Say WTF!😡

So if the cable is new did you replace it? Or was this done prior to you Owning it! If this truck was born with an air assist and it was removed before u owned it look for any random Capped off air line tucked up in the frame on that side! The levers on the trans and pedals have different geometry Shorter arm on the trans! Also the Clutch itself May be A non Easy Pedal Clutch ! Or is incorectly set! https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/clutches-and-brakes/easy-pedal-advantage-clutch.html#:~:text=The Eaton Easy Pedal Advantage,Contact Eaton Above is the usual clutch used in the application with out an assist! Try stay away from a solo auto adjust if you got to replace! They tend to fill with clutch dust and cease to adjust them selves properly!

Mark nails this one ! In my opinion ! Replace the cable ! But there is a slim chance it has an air assist in which case you may have a bad slave!

Yup injector spray will cause that !

So look at the power tower where the pump mounted! This is and 89 engine Correct ? Does the power tower have extra un used plugged off holes? Some where in this era they were transitioning to Inline pumps and the power tower was drilled either or and plugged off accordingly to the Pump installed! they also did this on E7 when they transitioned to R Bosch! It was only a short period of time this happened!

sorry I Didn't see your reply ! I once ran across one of these that the engine ran so long after the failure the only noticeable thing was a miss ! no banging sound! The piston was in similar condition !the peices were pounded into What was left of the piston The picture you show there it almost looks like a cracked liner as well ! They tend to crack near the top also

sorry I Didn't see your reply ! Did it come with a Fuel pump????? I once ran across one of these that the engine ran so long after the failure the only noticeable thing was a miss ! no banging sound! The piston was in similar condition !the pieces were pounded into What was left of the piston The picture you show there it almost looks like possibly a cracked liner as well ! And likely a cracked counter bore! They tend to crack near the top where the top ring stops ! That is my concern for your running engine ! the only way I know of to isolate this is to remove the cross over at the rear of the water manifold and fab up some riser tubes with drain cocks on the top ( WE actually built a set of theses) and run the engine and watch which side develops bubbles! By the way! Did you check the head bolts on the running engine bottom corners ??? The problem with a v eight is you can't take the Water pump out of the equation like an e6 / e7 ! Makes it harder to nail down!

So the piston damage is likly due to an injector tip being ruined by seat chunks ! And run for too long after the failure! How long was it run after it started banging!?usually you can expect to replace piston liner head injector and turbo!

Just replace! Ain’t worth messing with!

A flip hood would be nice though! How ever I’m not an md hater I am ok with it they need to offer it with hydraulic brakes though air only it limits there ability for sales need to be able to hire cheap labour if there is such a thing these days!

well you got the miss now maybe time to swap see if it follows!

I know it’s time consuming but. Have you tried a swap?Bad ecu?

yup sorry bad choice of words!

Did you run compression/ cylinder balance test ? Or do You assume you have a bad injector! have run into the odd bad valve!

You need to post the engine number MP7 or 8! You likely need to rebuild the oil separator on this or just replace it!

I'm a ''Negative Nelly'' when it comes to MP's.... Jojo Yup Me too!

Yup ! replaced more that one in the day! And the W model was even worse!

Still think PTO how ever as Joey states Is a hard call ! That fact you hear it in neutral says something to me, Its in the main box and it only telegraphs in direct when driving ! just my thought! Check the drain plug for chunks and get some one to double check the Ptos in my opinion! Wouldn't want to rip a trans out with out evidence!

Remember these first years of super liner was Derived from a W model cab over! Hence The model RW ! which also had the steering box on the axle the drag link is out of view on the back side and is about 6ft long ! MH frame was used on second gen RW!

My opinion the inline is more resilient! I personally like the v pump for its simplicity! And had worked more with them saw a fare few failures the in-line was only use several years at the end!

This is one of those occasions where loose is better than too tight! Bet you need to add a 15 thou gasket to one or both!

I would check the backlash on the pto s. First! joey great minds ! 😂