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That’s exceptional boost for a 350 your fortunate!

It can contribute! A strong/ fresh 350 25 - 28 psi / 460 33 - 38 ! If your trailing Smoke under a pull you may have a boost leak, another symptom is if you have a pyrometer it will raise quick! Can't emphasize enough ! You have to take in to account the age and what's worth spending for what your doing! oil is cheap in some ways! just stuff to consider!

exactly the route I would take if I was in your shoes!pop the heads off in a lump don’t take everything apart leave manifolds on! Pull the pan pop out the pistons ball hone the liners be careful not to hit piston coolers new rod and mains re ring and reassemble!likely cost a lot less than ten k and worth the effort in your case and if it goes sideways in a few years you aren’t out much!

In my mind its all in what you intend to do with it! If you intend on keeping it and its a daily work horse then you could spend the bucks! How ever how far does one go with it! ? You can get into this for 30000 K and what is the unit worth? If your mechanically minded You could pull the heads pop out the the pistons re ring it! Economically and pop it back together! that would likely deal with the oil consumption blow by issue ! how ever you still got to consider how long will the liners last till they leak etc. I could go on and on! Its a catch 22! How much will insurance pay you if the truck gets wrote off? if it costs 10 bucks in oil day after day of running add it up! And as Joe mention Skilled labor these days NOT The greatest!

The This is a keep it working fix ! Don’t forget these engines ran good for years with fixed timing econovance was added for emissions reasons! The 350 was offered with either or in the transition year!

Teck Tip ! DON'T Idle ! Too much idle Not enough work makes Mack a dull boy! 🤣

I have seen these go way over 30 thousand hours! If it ain't broke don't fix it! Comparatively speaking oil is cheap!

Please do! I am not a fan of doing this but it has worked as a get by in the past ! As parts have been hard to get for a long time!

To disarm you want to cap off the oil line! To the econovance! remove the timing event sensor turn the engine till the spade shows up in the hole where the timing event marker gets its message! Remove the 5 bolt cover at the front of the fuel pump. Remove the bolts holding the pump gear remove the gear! Go to the flywheel housing at bottom remove the six bolt cover observe where the timing is set should be 6 or 10 initial timing! Advance. The engine to timing up to 15-20 put the gear back in ensure the spade stays central in the timing event hole as you tighten the gear bolts the (holes are slotted)and reassemble you can run the engine with the cover off to test run not much oil in that area ! See if that works ok you can tweak the timing higher if you wish ! Just remember that you started with six or ten initially! good luck with it bro! Note that the econovance when working advances to a max of 22 - 24 degrees ! So you should pick a happy medium! Econovance was added to meet emissions.

Do you have a replacement? Try a solenoid first wouldn’t go pulling the econovance parts are near impossible to get! I believe I would disarm the econovance and set the timing to 20 or so and call it a day! Just my thoughts on it!is this a customers truck? If so the afore mentioned fix may not be viable! With out permission!

Do you have a check engine light on? You can try put 12v to the econovance ! this will prove out whether it is mechanical or wiring/ software issue! if the stumble goes away you have a wiring issue! If it does not you have a physical issue with the econovance! broken spring or sealing issue! ect ! Also check the line from the block to the econovance if the line has pluged it won't work either! on older models There are also screens that can plug up in the econovance block remove the plugs and check these if you take the block off be sure to try and save the gasket or get the right gasket for the year there are two different gaskets!

Yup ! Think its a dealer issue here there are lots of parameters to be set even just enabling it (may not) get the result you expect!

Good point and easy to do!

Did they sweep check the turbo? if the turbo is sticking it is a viscous circle as far as soot production ! not enough air more soot! round and round!

The older two valve V8 would make a popping sound when a valve seat came loose and could really be heard when shutting down the engine pop pop pop as it was being shut down! the seat was big enough it would not fall out un like the 4 valve V8 ! That said the six rarely had seat issues 2 or 4 valve! Just sayin!

Think you should check the egr differential pressure sensor and venturie tube ports foe clogging ! just sayin!

You get this working again bro!

Yup !you got the drift perfectly! point is it pays to check for things before jumping to conclusions! This is one of those times! 😎

So I stopped by my old shop yesterday! The boys were scheduled to do a head gasket on a customers truck 3406 E ! The truck was steaming from the crank case under load real bad! One of the guys took the bull by the horns and decided that the diagnosis of a head gasket by the customer was premature and warranted an extra look! ! We had a tool I had made up to cap the turbo exhaust and inlet to pressurize the intake system on the Mack turbos as we had blowby issues with this on our turbos before! Sure enough They put pressure to the thing and there was a steady stream of air from the drain tube! They removed the turbo caped off the the oil line ran the engine oh natur-al and all was good! So this here is just a comment For those who have similar issues and are preparing to tare into things with out checking stuff! This here saved the guy thousands of dollars ! This check can be performed on most any turbo charged engine but you have to make the tool to do it , and obviously this issue is not just a Mack turbo issue it can happen to any turbo! I have personally seen it happen a half dozen times on Asset Ai And Ac engines So any turbo charged engine can be suspect ! I have very little experience with the MP engines However I'm sure Its possible for them as well just something to watch out for! Happy new year! to All

Yup to both ! By pass the cooler and change the oil and try it but it has likly roasted the syncro! BUT you may get lucky! The job can be done in the truck however you have to have special tools to do it! And it aint cheap! PAI parts for this are quite reasonable compared to Mack pricing!

you will see where the coolant is oozing from with the pan off! Also there are plugs in the head between the rockers that can leak check there first but usually its a liner or oil cooler if this showed up quickly both will show up with the pan off!

Oil cooler possible! pull the oil pan and pressurize the system it will tell you where your At!

Bro I think you need to go to a bosch pump shop for this ! Did you get the engine to run or still no fuel? ! If you still fighing it remove the transfer pump and get a mirror look inside the hole where it mounts and check the little gear that runs the TF pump it may have fallen off its shaft!

Agree check the tank vent or fuel cap!

My opinion of the 151 is the only good thing about it is the diff lock! KT and I disagree on its reliability ! It has some design flaws from my view point ! 92 /93 has the test of time going for it! How ever I think you closest ratio will be around 3.87