theakerstwo

What i am saying to do is hold pressure like trying to turn the engine and when it is locked shack each rod and the rods should be free and that will show you that there is no problen with somthing in the cylinder or with rust in the cylinder locking the piston cause if the piston is locking the you will not be able to mone that rod on the crank. And the side clearence has to be checked ever time the rod cap is taken off ever time new or worn out engine and the way to get your clearance is losen the cap a little and pry the rod over against the rod and hold it there and use a small harmer and tap the cap the same way then torque and check clearance and if ok go but if not make some clearance or you cane ruin the rod or crank or both. i have seen it done.

Also when you torque those rod brgs make sure and check the side clearence on them from side to side on the crank witha feeler gage. should have about .007 clearance or you can burn the thrust surface on the rod. Very important. If you did not i would and i mean have some one hold pressure on the crank against the locked place and get under and shavk each rod for side clearance like i said and if you find a cylinder that is holding the engine from turning then that rod cap will not be able to shack back and forth like the rest. It could have some rust on the cylinder walls of the liner and that is a way to find if it is a piston in a bind. You can check back lash between the cam gear and the fuel pump drive gear by removeing the small cover in front of the fuel pump and with some one holding pressure on the crank against the locked place then try to get some back lash between the cam gear and fuel pump drive gear and letr off of the crank and see if you have any more. I you dont get any back lash and i am talking about using a screw drive then they may be a problen in the pump drive or pump. I dont think i have ever saw a fuel pump lock a engine. Have you tryed to turn engine with the clutch down? glenn

As long as the injectors have a return back to the tank you are ok.

I ant going to fool with any ones wife, too dangerous. glenn

If that engine does start with a stuck rack you may have a runaway and it could kill you. I have seen a mack run so fasthat it brock a fan blade and it when thru the hood not more 4 ft behind a mechanic that was running away from it. if you are lucky enough to get it free enough to start you may not get it to stay free and if you are ready to meat the load then think along time before you try to start it the next time. when one runs away that means you cant stop it.

Glad to hear things are getting better for you i know it ant as much fun being sick any more as it used to be. I have had pneumonia 4 times in 2 years and it is had to get over it each time. glenn

The valve is wired up right i have seen them both ways but i do not know which way dot wants it to work but it will work ok like that.

That makes sense with it conected to the service brake that way when you hit the brakes it will spit. glenn

If you take the top off of the governor you can feel the rack and it should move in and out . If it will not move it has to have the barrels and plungers re worked. If it will not move freely you dont whant to start because if could overspeed and kill you. If it moves the plungers lifers could still be stuck up but with the dry fuel we have now it is a thing that we see more ever day .If you have to buy a pump i have one off of a running engine.

Well guys let me tell you some things i found out years ago. I have been a truck mechanic for 41 years and i have worked for some sorry little wantabes and it took me a long time to understand why we work for some times a real winner. I started out wandering why do they have crap running the shop but then i said to my self it is simple because first place the management needs some one that wants the job in the first place and he may not be any good any were else. So it would not make good sense to take me and put me up there when i dont want it begine with. Then some times it is good to have some one there that can lie his way out of a beating and he may be good at talking and not doing any thing and who knows want all. Some time i know upper management does not know what is going on and they look at the bottom line. We are there and see and hear and most of us dont run and tell on him so no body knows any thing about the dumb stuff. A lot of times the forman or dispacher may know more about the story than we do so in the latter years i let them do there thing and i find in the end they are only hurting there self. I have been out in the lot with them serval times and it dont do any good. It may help for a while but i feel that those rascels will stab you in the back to get even with you when you ant looking. I remember years ago a dispacker had a steel cage around his office so driver could noy get ahold of him. I remember when drivers would tell about buying a good load from the dispacher.

I am thinking a photo could jog my mine not sure but may have been in them but my mine works better when i can see it.

The carriers will not bolt into the old B61 axle housings. glenn

Fill filter to top and atart and then loosen the filler plug and let air out when running and that way you will not spin a rod brg.

Yes i remember them as well as a707 gas burner which look like the same block except the machining for the injection punp and may not had liners but never was in one.

may be the same deal on a 711 it is a 707 ci engine. The 864 was called later 865, 866 I have seen a Lanovia and i think the block was the same design as the 673 also.

Larry you need to bleed that filter for sure because that is too much air having to go thru the brg before the oil gets there.the best way to do it is with a funnel fill the filter and then bleed when you start but dont take the plug out when running. You can put the screw on base on that setup and get away from that filter but there is a check valve in the bottom that keeps the filter from draining back to the pan on your filter. I have put the screw on and oil cooler set up on a b61 engine before. My b61 has the three filter set up but it is a late model i think a 320 with a air/air on the front instead of the mack after cooler.

Larry i go look and no find any real mack manuals that old but in the green motors book it show 15 qts and on one engine like the end 673y and 711 it shows 19 qts so then add you filter and i think nthe full flow takes 10 qts and the little 500 would maybe take 6qts. i am going to say i dont know for sure to keep from messing some one up.

Well i am working on my membery so after while i will look at some old stuff if i ncan find. I know i am losing it but i will see.

Yes i have seen that happen to a 1693 one time it throwed all of the belts off of it and the driver saw that it was not charging so he called me .I said it may have locked the alternator with a bad brg so he said will have it towed in to the shop and one of the guys came up and said come look at this. There was a big cat cut into and i guess when the truck was sitting over night the cat got up there and got in the belts and throwed them but this was a big cat i mean one that could make a dog go up a tree and that has been 25 years ago but i remember the dead cat.

If it has the big oil filter with 3 oil lines on the bottom i would use 32 qts and if it has the 500 luberfiner the maybe 28 qts. The 500 luberfiner will have 2 lines at the bottom. If it has the fullflow with 3 lines on it then when you change it fill it up to the top and bleed the air out when you start it. glenn Revised I dont know any more.

If i understand right it will only turn a1/4 turn with a bar. If that is right then it is not good so start to pull injectors and see if it will turn with a bar and watch for coolant coming out of the head. If you free it up like that the a head has to come off to check out more . If that dont help then look for a dead cat in the belts and if non then pull the drain plug and check for metal . Or pull pan and have some one hold a lot of pressure on the bar trying to turn crank and then you take a long sreww driver and try to slide each rod side ways. That will tell you which rod is locking the engine if any and if you find it locking the engine then pull that rod brg and check and if ok then look for a bent rod. Those are thin rods and i have seen people bend them but never to lock a engine. if it is a main brg then you will see it as you look up arond the main cap. If it is a rod it should have a rod cap blue. When youy drain the oil watch for the first little bit that drains and see if there is any antifreeze in it.

To clean out a rad. that has alot of dirt and bugs the best way is give up and take the air/air off were you can soak with soap and water and then get a hi pressure air hose and blow gun and blow out then look thru with a light and you can see if clean then put a screen over the front to keep some out. The clutch like you have is hard to test and i have seen many of them blamed for heat problems. i test them like the manual calls for and that takes time and i can tell you that the man that can walk up there and tell you that it is bad with out testing is not up to date. If it does not roar when it is hot does not mean that the clutch is bad. The rad. could be restricted or the water pump belt could be slippng and not have much water pump pressure and moving much water and if the rad is stopped up with bugs then you cant blow the hot air out of the rad onto the sensor in the fan clutch. many things act like a bad clutch. To test you have to cover rad with cardboad and cut a small hole in front of clutch sensor and run untill it is turning the fan about 80% of the fan speed which should be max speed and you need a photo tackometer to test with. At that speed your water temp should not be say more than 205 and i ant looking at a manual but you get the ideal now. It will heat real fast now so pull the cardboad out and let cool but this is testing when the fan turns its max speed at what temp.If it dont turn more than say 70% then the clutch is bad or belts are hard or bad or pulleys may be worn out.

REMEMBER A candle that burns twice as bright lasts half as long! Have fun. That is so true i have worked on truckes for 41 years and saw many engines burnt because some people find out how to set the fuel up but dont fully understand how to take care of the engine and the first thing you hear is this engine sure has alot of blowby and next trip you hear they scored a piston. glenn

Larry the factory will use # 20 straflex size hose to the starter from the starter valve. so that is a lot of air so you may start to say why do i want to here one of these things anyway. Stuff like that is why i cant here nothing now. Oh i hear good but it is all ringing.

The older air starter motors used a lubercator that used fuel to lube the motor when it engages but the last 4or5 years the new ones dont have that on them. The senold will be wired to where it will not start when in gear and some times if the starter is not set up right the bendix will eat the ring gear real fast and i think your ring gear may be hard to find. I have worked on them for along time and conway had them but isee they have got away from them. I would not want one for the reason of the big tank will take up more room than the battery boxes.