Freightrain

Been hard at work lately. Got some major steps done on the truck. Got driveshafts made last week and installed, brownie is fully bolted in, air lines done, electric is all new to the back. Few loose ends to finish, but truck is basically drivable. Last Friday was it's maiden voyage out of the garage. Had to roll it out(manually) so I could install the axles as my walls are too narrow for me to put them in while in the garage. Sunday I was able to jump start the bobcat and get the bunk set up on the frame. My pickup didn't have enough "umph", so I had to get the Mack out and use it instead. Now that the bunk is on, I started to dismantle the boot and got the rear window out of the truck. Once I get all the boot stuff out of the way I'll slide the bunk up and see what it's going to take to mate them up. I know I'm going to lower the opening in the bunk and likely curve it to match the top of back window in truck. Then go down from there, likely about 1/2 way down back wall(to where the ribs are on the outside). Time will tell, just going along and adjusting as need be. The white on the truck(kinda appliance white) is close to the eggshell white of the bunk, but not quite. Likely leave it alone for now and worry about it once it gets warm out. Picture doesn't do it justice.

Very, very cool ol Dodge.

Just have to measure the mounting area where the rims fit to see if it takes the same spacer and wedges. I'm going through that right now with the air ride I put on my truck. I would think that the spoke diameter would be different between 22.5 and 24"? Isn't the rim diameter bigger? Budds, you don't have to worry, but spokes I would think they would be different. ??

Got an older Millermatic, like a 250? Can't recall what model. 220v machine, is kinda rickety but once you get it set up it burns decent. Would love to have a new electronic Miller like buddy has. Very finite control of voltage and is about totally silent running. Mine sounds like all hells breaking lose if you are stitching along. That ol contactor just beat'n its points off LOL!! Can't complain, friend gave it to me to use for as long as I want(been near 20 yrs).

Looks like a neat toy to play with. The price WAS right!! Do agree, once you run a skid steer that rubber tire machine is a monkey/football kinda thing LOL!!! Unless you have alot of room then they arent bad. I have my buddys Bobcat over my place as I work on the B model. Only problem is it's got electrical issues and you have to jump it and use TWO screwdrivers(one to jump soleniod and one to hold fuel shut off open) to get it running. Runs great(when you get it started LOL), getting too cold to disect it and see what's wrong. I've done just about everything I can do with it, had some help from internet forums.

.....and taking donations to be saved too......................lol!

Perrrrfect!! You're really catching on quick. Before you know it you'll be two hand'n it!! Yup, watching the tach just adds to the confusion, unless you're working on downshifting. Your ear is your best friend.

Mike, I would bet the only run away diesel he talked about was a Detroit. They were notorious for it and had an emergency shut off just for that occasion. It was a flapper door to cut the air off, as it would run on the anything leaking into the blower. Of course there was also the issue with the racks, as they were sprung into the "FULL FUEL" mode and if you ran into issues, that is where they went and then watch out!!!!! I suppose any diesel could run away if undetermined amounts of fuel were introduced, but the Detroit was the most common. Running it dry is just a pain as most didn't have a primer pump(Like the old Macks did).

To clarify all issues...........what does it say on the sidewall of your tire? 10.00-20 or ?? My B model had 10.00-20's and I put tubeless 22.5 tires all around using rims supplied by tire store I bought tires from. Basically the same size only tubeless. My tire store charged me $50/ea rim when I bought new tires.

I like my top post stud style batteries in the Mack. With a touch of lube they have never corroded or had issue with taking them apart for any reason. Unlike a typical GM car battery you don't have to worry about stripping the hole out.

Ok, more progress over the weekend All bolted together: Brackets made for new air tanks: Hanging aux. box for working on building mounts: Got fifthwheel remounted, ready to put dayton hubs on it, got most of the new air lines run but need a handful of fittings to hook stuff up. Getting closer and closer......

How's that song go..............."Love stinks".............

Sunday was another milestone: We got the new piece slid onto the truck. With some figuring we came up with 206" wheelbase. I still need to get the spoke hubs for it and get them switched over. This week? Didn't get the bolts yet, but this week I'll get to drilling/bolting things together for good. Then it's just hooking air back up and some electrical to the back. Hopefully in a few weeks it will be drivable again.

Ain't yu's got this figured out yet. The dog pound is just across the street and the dogs were getting all tangle up trying to pee on one hydrant at a time...LMAO!!!! One's a HIS and ones a HERS!

I can't recall which way my fuse panel is? Haven't looked behind the glove box liner lately. My junction terminal is inside the cab, on the floor in the back corner of the cab. Four lug terminal strip, wires come in from hole in floor in corner. Looks kinda authentic as it resembles the strips out front for headlights and turn signals on inside of core support next to radiator on each side.

Not sure how that box style signal control works? I know the the column mounted ones can be wired to flash brake lights(as that is how mine is). I'm thinking they are designed specific and can't be converted?? Seen the box style, but don't know anything about them.

Easy way to fix it............black magic marker the "Lo-Lo hole" of compound out. Then you'll have a shift plate for a Triplex LOL!!! Same plate I have in my truck and it's a Triplex also. Don't think anyone is repopping them? If you were handy with photoshop and had a scanner you could make one.

More parts today Spicer 6041 4 spd box: Lining up the pieces: Now that I figured out how things are going to mount, I can slip the new frame rails up and start bolting things.

Any old Mack motor runs 1500-2100 rpm. You're basically running it too slow to make the shifts. Runn'r up close to the govenor and then shift. Downshifting, let it drop down to about 1500, that way you have RPM to increase enough to catch the lower gear. REMEMBER..............you have to be going fast enough to UPSHIFT, you can't lag it along like a car as the gears will never get fast enough to mesh for the next faster gear(especially in the main box). My first summer was a real learning curve too as I had no one to teach me!!! No youtube to watch either!!

Mine is tach cable. I can just get it pulled out enough to get it from the front/top side. Still takes long, skinny fingers. Make sure they have some slack in the tach cable out in the engine bay, as if they have it tied tight, you might not be able to pull dash out to get to it. Lots of other stuff back there, but tach is the main hold up.

Check cables. Make sure you don't have any loose connections or bad ones. If the cables looks beat up, then likely need replaced. After I tore mine down to do the 12v conversion, I realized that likely the most likely suspect to the bad starting(with 24v set up) was the bad cable ends. Yes, if they did leave the 24v starter in, it likely won't turn over very well with only 12v. Can't believe they would do that though?

Well,today was a milestone(and there ain't no going back) got the last 12" whacked off and the suspension is gone This morning I went and picked up my lastest donation to the cause: 42" bunk made by Bentz. Pretty nice inside,just needs a cleaning and a mattress. Not sure how close the white is on the outside. Have to figure out the painting part later. Got a brownie box picked out and will be getting it Monday. I'll have one of the fastest B's in Ohio. Top speed should be up around 85 mph!! If it's got enough HP to get it there. Should have a good handle on any slow speed races too with something deeper then 26:1 in first!! Tomorrow I will be cleaning up frame rails and getting some paint on them so I can slip the new rails over. I've got to get the crossmember situation figured out for the brownie before proceeding.

Gotta agree, a rollback would be a good deal, though it might get kinda hung up on the approach? Depending on ground clearance of towmotor. We have local rental places(heavy equipment) and surely they would move something like that. Not going to be cheap, as I think they want $65 each way(?) to delivery a manlift(when I checked some time ago).

Hey, look at it this way, double that and you'll be UNDER 300lbs.....LOL!!! Momma might have to go clothes shop'n now!!

LOL!!! Well, I had to wait til my last race in October before I could start on this lil project. I was collecting pieces and getting things inline so hopefully it will changeover quickly. I'm likely going after the bunk this Saturday. Once that's home I'll confirm minimum length I need and then next week try to get the frame rail slid onto the truck. Then it's just a matter of hooking everything up. I already got the air bags replumbed and ready for air. Still need new shocks. Also working on maybe finding a brownie box to add instead of carrier bearing in driveshaft. Have one connection, but not sure it will pan out?(at least soon enough). He also has a "fresh" crated 250hp Mack motor!! ENDT673C. That would make me VERY, VERY happy!! Not sure the pocket book will survive that right now?