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oldspwr

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oldspwr last won the day on September 12

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  1. Here is a list I put together a while back that lists the model numbers of the various types of Brockway cabs. Not many folks are familiar with this so I figured it would help. Steve Skurnowicz provided a lot of help on this list as well... Model 31 Trafficab with Folding Doors Model 35 Metropolitan Cab Model 41F and alphabetically lower one piece push out windshield Model 41G and alphabetically higher one piece gasketed windshield Model 50 is the wooden framed Deluxe cab with the three piece windshield and narrow cowl Model 51 is the model 50 with a sleeper Model 52 is the Deluxe three man cab Model 57A - 550 Model 60 is the Deluxe all steel cab with the three piece windshield Model 61A-61J are all steel sleeper cabs Model 65B - 358 & 359 Model 67 - 358 & 359 3 man cab Model 68 - 360 and 361 Model 75 - 758 & 759 (depending on engine) (Sheller Globe Cab) Model 76 - 758 & 759 (depending on engine) (Sheller Globe Cab) Model 78 - 760 & 761 Models 50/86 - 457 & 459 Models 763 / 773 / 783 / 793 - 776 (depending on engine) (Sheller Globe Cab) I can add pics if that would help...
  2. Well I have been able to finish up a few loose ends. A while back I mentioned I wanted to reconnect the existing Kysor alarm system. I was able to find the correct sending units on eBay. I was unable to find a one wire pressure switch for the oil alarm but I did find a 2 wire. All this means is that I had to run 1 of the wires to ground. On the water side, I found the correct Kysor alarm temperature switch but needed to buy a 3/8 to ½ face bushing so that the sending unit went into the water jacket far enough... For the temp sending unit, I ran the wire in the same loom as the temp gauge sending unit. For the oil pressure unit, I ran the wire along the driver side frame rail and into the cab. Once the wires were in the cab I made the final connection to the bell. Once everything was done, I turn the key on and the light came on but the bell sounded sick. I guess from not ringing in a number of years! But after a minute or 2 it sounded much better. The next thing I worked on was some of the dash wiring. Surprisingly it was in decent shape but I did find a few issues. One of the circuit breakers was bad so they moved the load over to another breaker. I was able to fix that and replace the breaker. I also decided to add 4 fuses, one to replace the Jake fuse that I fed from Ignition Power, one for the PTO light that I fed from accessory power, one for a CB that I fed from accessory power, one for a future cigarette lighter that I fed from constant power. I will mount the extra cigarette letter in the glove box so that I can charge a phone, etc. when I’m at a show. Then my phone will be out of site... This is not a great pic, but I bundled the fuses together and they fit right behind the plate with the Kysor decal... I had always wanted to put a CB in the truck but waited until now. I had a 1976 23 channel Midland that my Dad had used years ago and thought it would be ‘fitting’ for this truck. But I also thought that in the future I may want to install a newer 40 channel Cobra. Since the Midland is narrower than the Cobra and I didn’t have the original Midland mounting bracket, I made my own. I based this off of the new Cobra one I had... Then I made a plate from some 1/8” plate that I had. I made this so the face of the CB would be flush with the dash. But I also made it wide enough to mount a Cobra in the future... The one thing I didn’t have was a Midland mic, so I could the correct one on eBay for only a few bucks. The truck already has a CB mic clip mounted to the dash so I left that in place and reused it. And this is what I wound up with... For the antenna, I decided to mount it off of the driver side mirror. On all the Brockways I have used a Kenworth antenna mount from Walcott CB, part number KWM. This is a stainless piece as well. It comes with an antenna base but in my experience they continually come loose. I usually replace these with Francis 300-CBM102 Stainless Steel CB Radio Antenna mounts. These are also stainless. The only problem is that they are no longer made in America... I also used a 24” black Firestik II FS2-B 5/8 Wave 300 Watts tunable tip CB Antenna. These are nice since you can adjust your SWR’s with the adjustable tip. Not terribly period correct but short and unobtrusive. Keep in mind that my Dad always carried a ‘CB box’ with him at Roadway so I spent a lot of time over the years making boxes, fixing CB mics, repairing antenna cables, etc. In fact one time he was driving under a bridge and lighting hit the bridge and transferred over to the CB antenna and into the CB. It actually shut the truck right off but he was able to restart it. It destroyed the antenna and cable but all it did was blow out the diode on the power side of the CB. These are the diodes they use in case someone reverses the polarity on the CB when they connect them. I still have the fried antenna cable in the garage That’s it for now!
  3. In another post I had asked about the correct location for the Jacobs engine brake switches. Some folks have them mounted on the passenger side of the dash but the most common place seems to be on the left side of the speedo and tach. I also have a 1974 300 series dash and it has a blank plug in this place along with a blank fiber optic tag. So I decided this was the best location. I also was able to find the correct older switch plates. These came from Courtland Truck Works who specialize in Peterbilt restorations. I taped them in place first... The switches were originally mounted very tight to the tractor protection valve and this is how they were wired so I corrected this as well... And this is the finished product... I’m happy with this location and it matches were I put the single switch in my Dad’s 361. I also dug out the original protection valve dash plate from my Dad’s 361. This still was in decent shape and had the factory decal on it as well... And I wound up replacing the original plate that had the extra holes drilled in it for the switches... Well that’s it for now...
  4. Thanks Bob!!! Last week I painted the metal support back for the headliner... And last weekend I was able to reinstall it... So it looks like I’m done with the headliner. Then I turned my attention to the dash... The truck had a mismatched tachometer in it but I was able to find this setup on eBay in December of 2016... The bezel needed a good cleaning so I taped it off to prevent and damage to the glass, etc... This picture was taken on January 7, 2017, my Dad’s 78th birthday. I had my Dad clean the gauge for me and install it in the original panel. Not much else to say except I really miss having him here with me... More to follow...
  5. So my last roadblock was to try to figure out what to do with the seam in the middle. I was able to salvage a few small scraps of fabric from these pieces... Using one of the scrap pieces, I glued it to a pieces of 1/8” aluminum and then clamped it overnight... L] It looks dirty but it did clean up well. The next day I screwed it in place with some #4 SS screws... And this is what I wound up with... The last piece of the headliner I needed to fix was the center bar that holds the headliner in place. Russ told me that when he got the truck there was an antenna mounted in the middle of the roof and they drilled a hole right through the center of this piece... Well almost the center of the piece... I cleaned up the hole with the angle grinder and the cut a piece to fill the hole in... Then I was able to weld the plug in and grind it smooth... And then I sandblasted it... I gave it a few coats of DupliColor’s Detroit Diesel alpine green and should be able to install it this weekend! That’s it for now!
  6. Once the headliner was down I found a few wiring issues (and a handful of plastic hitch hikers!!!)... One thing to mention with the cab lights is that the 3 middle lights are controlled separately from the 2 outer. I used a factory early 358 wiring schematic to help me figure out a few wires. I like to crimp, solder and heat shrink all my connections so I decided to fix the wiring while I was at it. I also added grommets to each of the holes the wires passed through for the cab lights. Once I was done with the wiring I reinstalled the headliner with the new screws. There were also 2 pieces that were made to fit in above the front ‘package’ tray. I’m not really sure how these were made to fit so I decided to make them work regardless. My first though was to install them on the outside of the lip just like the side pieces. I also did this on the 155W and my Dad’s 361. But there wasn’t enough material to wrap around the bottom of the fiberboard it was glued to. It’s my understanding that these were originally installed behind the lip. I decided my best option would be to glue these to a piece of luan... These pieces are tapered, meaning the middles are taller than the ends. So I had to cut these ends off... Once the luan wood was trimmed to fit I used some Gorilla glue to attach the fiberboard to the luan and then clamped it between 2 pieces of wood... And this was the end result... More to follow...
  7. Paul, both the 270 in the 68 Brockway and the 335 in my 76 Brockway have compression releases... I wound up using a large black knob I had and it pulls fine. Our 761 has the same knob in the dash and that’s what I based this on. I wound up using a stock plate from a dash I bought from the junkyard a few years back. The dash wound up in my Dad’s 361 since it was pretty much original without a ton of extra holes drilled in it... In the pic above you can see the plate with the large lamp for the Kysor system. Long after the decal fell off a hole was drilled into this plate to mount a switch to control a fan. I wanted to bring it back to original so I removed the plate and welded the hole in, being careful not to generator too much heat to burn the original dark green paint... Once I was done filling the hole I painted the area front and back and dug out one of the reproduction Kysor decals I had made a while back... And here is the finished product back in the truck... As you can see this is drifting from my power steering install but that’s ok... The next thing I decided to work on was the headliner. Russ had a guy in Saylorsburg make a new headliner based on the original pieces he gave him. He had a hard time getting it to fit well so I figured I would tackle that next. For hardware, someone had installed 6/32” rivnuts in the mounting holes. These really don’t work well for this application since the screw needs to float a bit in the hole. Some of them were cross threaded also (probably because of the installation tool) so I drilled them out. I replaced them with this Balkamp #8 U spring U nuts, part #665-1955. For the screws, I was also able to pick up the correct screws from Napa, but I have to dig up the Balkamp part number. But they are the same as these Dorman 961-235 screws... More to follow...
  8. This past Sunday our local ATCA club had our annual truck show and the Harford Fairgrounds. Harford PA is about halfway between Scranton PA and Binghamton NY. Even with the soggy weather we had 110 trucks and a great turnout of Brockways. Here are some pics from the show...
  9. While I was working on the compression release I decided to replace something else. The fan support bracket that is mounted directly underneath the compression release bracket had (3) separate spaces under each bolt to compensate to the jake height. I decided to remove these spacers and make (2) new ones... This is what I started with... And these are what I made... And here they are installed... Well that’s it for now...
  10. Someone has also welded an extension on the factory bracket the rod or cable would attach to, so I decided to cut that off since it wasn’t needed... I also decided to use a cable instead of the rod. I had a box full of older PTO cables and found one that was in tired shape. The first 4’ was in great shape but the last 3’ was wore through in a spot, etc. So I decided to use that cable. In order to use the cable, I turned a 5/16” bolt down in the lathe, drilled (2) holes in it, (1) for a cotter pin and (1) for the cable to pass through. And then I found (2) 5/16x18 nuts with washers attached to them... And this is what I wound up with... When I was done fabricating everything I gathered all the parts up and bead blasted them... At that time I also discovered that the original bracket was cracked and that was some of the reason for all of the play... I then assembled the new pieces using new 1/4" roll pins and painted everything... More to follow...
  11. Thanks for everyone's comments, now its time for an update... In addition to the power steering there were a handful of other items that I wanted to take care of. The was a long 1/4" rod that was used for the compression release. This rod now hit the bracket I made for the power steering reservoir. I had posted a question earlier about play in the linkage so I felt it would be a good time to correct everything. This is what I started with... After disassembling everything, this is what I wound up with... In the upper left hand corner of the pic you can see an NOS compression release bracket that Stan helped me out with (Thanks Stan!!!) You can also see a piece of 1 1/2” round stock. I decided to use this piece of round stock to replace the pieces that were originally installed when the jake was installed. I wound up turning this piece in the lathe to make my own extension... When I was done turning it in the lathe I drilled a hole in the middle to fit over the original piece and then drilled (2) 1/4" holes to accept roll pins (in lieu of bolts...) For comparison, this is what the factory install looked like... And here is what my extension looks like for the added height of the jake... More to follow...
  12. Hi Brocky... The fire house is coming along real nice. Unfortunately I didn't get a great pic of it but I'm sure someone did. This is all I have... The field was open because they needed a staging area for the fire works. Tom
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