Vladislav

I wish you guys good luck! Spraying is not very time consuming. When all the prep works are done right.

Worth to point out these do exist of different width. I have two R-models (which are originally differerent to a RW/MH) with those and the truck with double frame has them shorter than the single rail unit. BTW my R-model with Neway has particulary this style for the rearmost crossmember. With shock brackets attached to it.

Looks like ARD-125 to me (the setup in my 1988 R-model) When I was taking my old iron apart a tag was found riveted to the RH (or LH?) airbag support plate down side (seen from the ground).

Check out PAI FKT-4736 and FKT-4737. I've got a trouble with one rod though when PAI bushing was found loosy in the hole. Another rod pressed in Ok. So seems like there could be different vendors of rods with differences in internal specs.

A couple add ons. There's a variation of that cross member as a double style when two similar webs are welded together for more rigidness (the 2nd pic). You can use it too paying attention to the shock brackets (using spicers again or so). And if you find a trouble locating a used part you may contact PG Adams in Vermont. Those folks specialize in fabrication of frame rails for trucks and also offer variety of crossmembers of different styles.

What you have at the rear is a common style Mack chassis crossmember. They were used on many trucks with Camelbacks and other rears in the central portion of the chassis. Just were put upside down overthere. More correctly, the very rear crossmember on your truck put upside down to clear up the trailer pin for coupling (and that's a common practice). Those "common" crossmembers may have holes for the shock brackets. If no you just drill them. There's one point though you need to keep in mind. Frame width is different between RW and earlier Mack model such as R, U, DM, F etc (which used to use those members) Those are narrower so you need a parts from a RW2 (after 1985) or MH Ultraliner (similar chassis). Or you can use a R-model part adding spicer plates. P.S. CH and later models have different distance between the rails too.

Drool, drool, drool!

Outer bearings are 45280/45220 (set 413 as mentioned above) Inners are HM212049/HM212011 (set 409) Stemco seal either 383-0139 or 383-0239. There's a wear ring of 4" OD the seal works against of but you don't need refreshing it if use unified Stemco seals.

Congrats on the purchase! Firetrucks are cook stuff on my mind. I have never had any relation to them myself but definitely would be happy having a classic one in running condition. Maybe some day which hasn't come yet? As for removing the firebody I would keep it in place as was suggested above multiple times. And for transporting the tractor a trailer might be hooked up. Going further this way the tractor might be stylized to fire service too. As Dan Druno made to a R-model in the FAW5371 axle thread, turned out very nice on my mind. Ok, as long as the truck is a red truck with white stripe and the tractor is already a blue tractor with white stripe just a blue trailer would complete the case.

Valve seat? That's not a valve guide. As I was told in a local shop they use liquid nitrogen for cooling seats. And although valve guides, surface grinding and many other jobs are made by guys the seat installation is done by the chief himself.

Paul, I love ya!.. About every other morning after waking up I remember the words of your father said. Of how wierd that would be... and so on. Than after 10 or 15 more minutes I force myself to stand up I would definitely like to have much more energy for the day since I have tons of plans and ideas on turning stuff over or inside out. But unfortunately I'm short on energy and always was from the times I remember myself. Never liked gym excersizes and preferred to tinker with small stuff. Slowly and patiently. This way I just try my best doing every day as much as I can. And also remember your advice on keeping small steps. About every other time I need to kick myself for a few more extra steps Vlad

My guess is the outside plate is aftermarket (repair-reinforcement). I saw many Superliner chassis and also R-models with Neway and have never seen any arranged that way. The inner plate (spicer) is the most probably factory. To compensate possible use of the inner rail. My 1988 R-model Neway arranged particulary. Single frame rail with two holes for the rod bracket attachment and 1/4" plate at the inside. ...With hard cracking near the bolt holes. So I'm looking for options for a "nice" fix. Probably will also fabricate an outer plate but less in size to look smoother. And I don't plan to carry loads by the truck.

Welcome to the group! The truck looks very nice! I'm pretty sure a little bit of touch up and she'll be a bomb! Vlad

Hi Dave, No, unfortunately no big move along the R-model. Recently I'm focused on my WW2 NR-model which is closer to the finish (I'm even afraid to use this word!). Also had to rebuild the cab and that have turned out into even huger entertainment than the one for the R. I probably should post that job either but short on time so far. The R has the most of engine parts (E6-350) ready to put back together and I hope to provide this job during the upcoming winter. So all in all plenty of playing with parts but still not a moment to post pictures of finished trucks.

What a great look of the roads was in those days! Now the times are different, different rigs. Thanks the great for pictures mate