Vladislav

Joey, my hopes are not that high as they may be seen by you. I have E9 overhaul manual for a decade and also wrote off PAI numbers of the components in a copybook. The issue is the costs. Which look ubnormal to me but we know a seller put a cost and we may get it or may not. Reading the forum talks for years and seeing so many highlights on the E9 engine I figured I also want one I'd put in a Superliner (at the time I have a chassis for it). So I accuired an engine off a Renault Magnum locally and slowly prep to rebuild/restore it. I collected a few bits already but the sleeves seem as the key stone and both big $$$. I have plenty of time for that project (needs to finish a E6 before which is 95% arranged and 50% assembled). Anyway thank you for the numbers and for keeping me on your mind. I would ask a question when need but yet have no needs seriouse enough to bother.

An old thread gets on my mind of how JT Formula was bringing GMC General to running condition. He made that but found multiple troubles and put notable efforts. Something like "GMC General near abandoned house" was the name of the thread. I may search for it later when have a bit of time.

The least you'll need to go through all hub bearings and seals, brake pads, air lines, may find air tanks rotted through, fuel tanks with mud clogging filters every 5-10 miles, electric issues the most probably, dry water hoses etc etc. New tyres all around would be a must I guess. Because for a job truck you wouldn't afford road shoulder fixes. With cost of job in your neck of the woods my bet is that all would take from 3 to 10 times more than purchasing a good running truck. Sure just suggestions from where I'm sitting.

Yes, my guess is for the task pointed in the topic the truck must be in much better condition than those red rigs in the weeds and cost notably larger amount of $$$. Something like this black one above.

Happy B-day Rich!

I'm in interest of 8 new cylinder sleeves for a E9 engine if they are not made of quality of nails or paper clips. PAI number for the liner/sleeve is ESL-8285. And they're heeaavy to ship.

H-81

This was the best candidate for what you'd like to see of a Rubber Duck replica. But the engine option would ruine the idea of driving it for work. If I could grab that truck I'd catch it with both of my hands. But I already have more toys than my resourses allow me to bring in order. A Superliner convertion could be done too. But that's a shame on my mind to ruine a Superliner converting it into anything else. You might sell the hood of it to compensate some expences though.

Too sorry to hear Paul. I'm not a dog guy myself but I'm pretty sure there's nothing nice of feeling loosing a friend. Rest in piace Miss Molly.

...and worth to try on a fence first than on a certain old body panel. Than when you're of feel of paint viscosity (the amount of solvent in the paint) and thickness of the 1st and the next layer there's time to get to the object of your desire.

I was told by a very respectful person that in early years (1953 or so) B-models had the chassis stamping somewhere in the rear portion of the frame. I have never re-checked that info but I'm not a B-model guy.

RH rocker panel is similar between R, U and DM-models. It's of straight shape and can be fabricated of sheet metal with reasonable efforts if no options for purchasing a new part. LH is another and more complicated story since U and DM have the curve for a leg to acces the step. Look at the photo above Bob posted. R-model has straight rocker panel at the left since the cab doesn't have any offset. 6 or 7 years back I was lucky catching a pair of new rockers for my R at E-bay for $100 apiece. And a couple years earlier (8-10 years back) they were avalible from Mack for about that cost. But than later I saw them for nearly $300 and not sure if they're avalible now at all. The 1st thing I would do is checking out Watts Mack on those parts. If no luck e-bay search or custom fab would be the options. It may also worth effort putting request in the "parts wanted" section of the site.

Thank you for the answer. I guess it's also possible to rework the door skin a bit in the mounting area to fit Chevy handles if you do that before painting the doors. Not the best approach to modify parts the way you wouldn't be able to install the original ones in place in the future. But could be done.

Big job! Keep on going! I'm pretty sure the result will offset the efforts. And as you do it it will be seen very soon on my mind Of the brake shoes and drums my way would be keeping them in place and forgetting about them for at least 50,000 upcoming kilometers. You will doubtly make that much driving to shows and other events for fun. So those shoes have very good chances to serve for the rest of the truck's life. Maybe even more

I saw a B-model at Macungie show fitted with similar chrome Daytons. Looked sharp from a distance but up close they were a big trouble with rust pitting all the way around each rim in the cavit area. The stampings contained "Made in China" letters. Big shame to spend some $$$, fit the wheels on a nice truck with new tyres and get such the "surprize" in a few years.