MACKS Posted August 23, 2023 Share Posted August 23, 2023 Would anybody happen to have the part numbers for the two drag links on a 1996 Mack cl,20000 front axle,or where can I find Barry’s e-Mail,Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKS Posted August 23, 2023 Author Share Posted August 23, 2023 Update,I sent Barry a message.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 Which joint is "worn"? The forward one that mates to the pitman arm is adjustable, my dad just adjusted one of ours. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted September 13, 2023 Share Posted September 13, 2023 On 8/27/2023 at 6:47 PM, JoeH said: Which joint is "worn"? The forward one that mates to the pitman arm is adjustable, my dad just adjusted one of ours. Interesting....is that a Mack thing or just specific to the CL series? I have a couple R models that have a little slop there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted October 22, 2023 Share Posted October 22, 2023 Is this the style we're talking about? JoeH, if so....how does one adjust it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Licensed to kill Posted October 22, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted October 22, 2023 You take out that cotter pin and the cap (that the pin goes through) screws in to take up slack, out to disassemble. Might have to disassemble and replace the ball if it is wore. The one pictured has the ball riveted onto the pitman arm so replacing would require some effort but can still be done. BTW, do NOT tear that rubber boot if you take it apart. I priced one out a couple years ago and IIRC they wanted $140CAD. That was a hard "NOPE" from me. I would make one out of leather first. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted October 22, 2023 Share Posted October 22, 2023 5 hours ago, Licensed to kill said: You take out that cotter pin and the cap (that the pin goes through) screws in to take up slack, out to disassemble. Might have to disassemble and replace the ball if it is wore. The one pictured has the ball riveted onto the pitman arm so replacing would require some effort but can still be done. BTW, do NOT tear that rubber boot if you take it apart. I priced one out a couple years ago and IIRC they wanted $140CAD. That was a hard "NOPE" from me. I would make one out of leather first. Thank you! So spin in the cap with a larger flathead/straight edge of some sort I would imagine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Licensed to kill Posted October 22, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted October 22, 2023 1 hour ago, Full Floater said: Thank you! So spin in the cap with a larger flathead/straight edge of some sort I would imagine? Yes. I use a piece of flat bar and turned it with a crescent wrench. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKS Posted October 22, 2023 Author Share Posted October 22, 2023 The drag links on my cl are not adjustable,one end is a screw in type so that part may be replaceable the front end is part of the bar,very pricy at 550 each side,it was determined mine were good,thankfully.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted October 22, 2023 Share Posted October 22, 2023 5 hours ago, Licensed to kill said: Yes. I use a piece of flat bar and turned it with a crescent wrench. Good tip! Just tried mine. She's seized.....on to the penetrating oil... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted October 22, 2023 Share Posted October 22, 2023 Glad someone chimed in with the "how to". I had no idea how. I only know that my dad adjusted the link in one of our trucks not too long ago so I threw it out to you as a possibility! Reasonable that a 20k axle is not adjustable. The one my dad adjusted is rated for something in the 10.5-11k range. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted October 22, 2023 Share Posted October 22, 2023 I haven't seen an adjustable drag link on anything modern, they were more common in the 50's. Goggle "drag link socket" to see the correct tool to adjust them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 1 hour ago, Full Floater said: Good tip! Just tried mine. She's seized.....on to the penetrating oil... Might need a little heat or as I call the blue wrench! Terry 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 now I feel 🤣REAL OLD 😂. "my day "many drag links were adjustable , to the point I had two 3/4 drive drag link sockets for adjusting purposes. basically a very large flat screw driver head . a piece of flat stock and adjustable was used MANY times. for the froze adjuster the 3/4 dr socket came to play. not always just out of adjustment on the bad sloppy ones ; many times the HD spring inside the drag link breaks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mechohaulic Posted October 23, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted October 23, 2023 caution with the heat ::1- don't want to burn the rubber boot; 2- any grease inside the drag link may start a larger fire. have used the proper socket and a hammer. with pressure to loosen the end tap (NOT beat) the drag link ; the adjusting end is only 5/8-3/4 ? wide fine thread. penetrating oil and tapping has shown to work. the right socket on impact gun also works. just use extreme caution. groove isn't that deep on adjusting end. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 12 hours ago, mechohaulic said: now I feel 🤣REAL OLD 😂. "my day "many drag links were adjustable , to the point I had two 3/4 drive drag link sockets for adjusting purposes. basically a very large flat screw driver head . a piece of flat stock and adjustable was used MANY times. for the froze adjuster the 3/4 dr socket came to play. not always just out of adjustment on the bad sloppy ones ; many times the HD spring inside the drag link breaks. I know how you feel, I have a drag link socket in my tool kit somewhere. However, the O/Per is working on a 1996 model, and I have never seen a adjustable link that late. even by 1969 they were not seen on most new equipment. The British buses I worked on were the newest thing I saw with adjustable ends, and they were in the 70's vintage and older. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 The truck my dad adjusted is a 1979 R686ST... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted November 16, 2023 Share Posted November 16, 2023 Stupid question, but these can remain all together (not separating the ball joint) for adjustment, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted November 16, 2023 Share Posted November 16, 2023 Depends, on type and which adjustment you are talking about. If you are adjusting for wear at the ball socket, then no. If you are adjusting for length then it depends on how the drag link is made. Some like my Marmon use a mini tie rod with left and right threaded ends, and that can be adjusted for length without removing an end, others like my IHC's and I think yours (hard to tell from the picture, but it looks to have only one thread) you have to remove one end to thread it in or out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted November 16, 2023 Share Posted November 16, 2023 2 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said: Depends, on type and which adjustment you are talking about. If you are adjusting for wear at the ball socket, then no. If you are adjusting for length then it depends on how the drag link is made. Some like my Marmon use a mini tie rod with left and right threaded ends, and that can be adjusted for length without removing an end, others like my IHC's and I think yours (hard to tell from the picture, but it looks to have only one thread) you have to remove one end to thread it in or out. Ok thanks, ya im just trying to adjust for wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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