Finally some DM progress

[mowerman]

Well, that’s funny Joey cause I know absolutely nothing about the B model

[Joey Mack]

You're spell corrector is at it again.. 🍻

[mowerman]

I have books out of my workshop, but I don’t think they’re gonna tell me anymore than I need to know. 

[mowerman]

But I did spot on Google search where the seal number was cross referenced  to something else

[Geoff Weeks]

3 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

The shield on the back of the hub resembles those on the B Model.   And the inner seal as well.. i am in no way smart about B Models.. i have done a lot to a few of them, but not enough to post correctly. 

Those "Shields" were common on axles with greased bearings, it was an attempt to take any grease flung off the hub from reaching the brake shoes. They most often vent to the hollow spokes, so grease will end up on the inner rim and not on the brake.

As Mowerman will attest, they weren't all that effective. 

Once oil bath bearings were the norm, they were almost 100% INEFFECTIVE! so they went away

[mowerman]

Lol that’s an understatement yes I’ve got quite a bit of clean up inside there I was also wondering about just what that recessed area so to speak was all about so thanks for that

[mowerman]

After I cleaned up the brake shoes, then took a shower changed my clothes I went to a small car show just down the street now getting ready to barbecue probably start cleaning the drum and hub a bit tomorrow see if I can get any grease in the S cam 

[mechohaulic]

1 hour ago, mowerman said:

But I did spot on Google search where the seal number was cross referenced  to something else

the 2129 seal with ring may cross over to the stemco "all in one" seal. rubber stemco seal which spins within it self  requiring no install tools,

[mechohaulic]

1 hour ago, mowerman said:

After I cleaned up the brake shoes, then took a shower changed my clothes I went to a small car show just down the street now getting ready to barbecue probably start cleaning the drum and hub a bit tomorrow see if I can get any grease in the S cam 

do you plan on installing center wheel seal or going to use just the outer stemco converting the wheel to oil only for inner/outer bearings, ??

[mowerman]

Sorry, I forgot to log out last night. I was just going to change the rear seal The outer seal looks like it’s in pretty good shape. I hadn’t really thought about it. Also, I looked up the cross reference to   2129 and it says there’s no such animal.

[terry]

27 minutes ago, mowerman said:

Sorry, I forgot to log out last night. I was just going to change the rear seal The outer seal looks like it’s in pretty good shape. I hadn’t really thought about it. Also, I looked up the cross reference to   2129 and it says there’s no such animal.

Forget the middle seal, thats what i call it, on the old applications, put a new inner seal stemco with the grit guard seal and wear ring is what i always used, and let the gear oil lube both bearings, after you get hub on,before you put outer bearing in squirt some gear oil in hub till it starts to run out. And i used to put some grease on both wheel bearings to lube till hub fills up completely.    terry

[mowerman]

Excellent thanks for that. Great advice.And yes the outer seal is kinda in the middle 

[mechohaulic]

22 minutes ago, terry said:

Forget the middle seal, thats what i call it, on the old applications, put a new inner seal stemco with the grit guard seal and wear ring is what i always used, and let the gear oil lube both bearings, after you get hub on,before you put outer bearing in squirt some gear oil in hub till it starts to run out. And i used to put some grease on both wheel bearings to lube till hub fills up completely.    terry

before install.turn the hub/ wheel assy so as to have the deep "pocket" inside  hub on bottom. this allows for the hub to hold more oil. also  after wheel assy installed / axle in  when filling rear with top off oil jack up the short side of housing , place finger over lower half of  filler plug . basically you are over filling rear to account for oil running in to newly replaced wheel seal assy.  sounds technical and unnecessary ; small steps to eliminate the two/ three times of checking level.

[Geoff Weeks]

The spinning of the ring gear move oil up and out the axle tube, You only need to make sure you have enough oil in the bearings until that happens.

 You can:

lift the rear axle and run at speed with the tires off the ground.

jack up one side enough to have the oil run to the other side, then jack up the other.

My way was to put a good coating of grease on the bearings when installing, then when the job is done go out on the road at 50 mph or so, then come back and top up the rear axle with oil. 

Oil will dissolve the grease and do no harm, grease will lube the bearings until the oil gets there.

Edited 20 hours ago by Geoff Weeks

[mechohaulic]

on a Mack top mount rear  the axle tubes are lower section filled by rear plug. by "over filling the rear filler port , saves some time of jacking up opposite side ; unless the wheel seal changed is on the short side of rear. then jacking up short side is done . on a tandem axle unit both axles would have to be off ground . jack up rear axle (if that's the one having seal replaced ) would still leave front axle power divider capable of engaging, all four off ground could be a safety issue, just sayin 

[Geoff Weeks]

Which is all why I just put some grease on and take on a short road test. 

Always wise if running a tandem axle in gear to have both axles off the ground. 

It wasn't stated if single or dual, and I should have made that clear.

when running, the rotation of the ring gear moves oil out the tubes, which keeps the bearing in plenty of lube, and why they don't run dry right after the seal starts leaking. 

Once stopped any excess (above the bottom of the tube) runs back into the bowl.

Some applications it is not easy or possible to over fill. 

Grease and a road test, then let sit for a few min and check/fill to the correct level has always worked for me.

[Joey Mack]

Really all the methods mentioned will work.  The second Mack shop I worked at was below the grade of the main road, so i would pull up on the hill and sit for a couple minutes, then turn the truck around and do it again. The young guys would look at me funny when I was sitting out there leaned over to one side... Oh well.  At least I didnt burn wheel bearings .