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Parts availability for older trucks?


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Why is 2021 not the best time to start out? I’d anytime really the best time to start? Regarding the compliance I doubt that’s going to happen, if so a good chunk of the companies around here won’t be

You might have a set of bearings and oil pump put in it, and run the balls off it!! 

Sir, Thats what : Pre-Trip inspections, Regular maintainance, and giving a damn, are for... If you have employee's, I hope they "Give a damn" Yes older trucks, ,,,,,,Hell.... any machine can break. Bu

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7 hours ago, alex g said:

Unfortunately there are no guarantees to wether it will break down or not. 

I know that, if I could predict if it was going to break or not I think I could be a millionaire! But it’s just all about risk, 800k miles without being touched I’d say is pretty risky, but on the other end it is cheaper than the other ones I’m looking at and appears to be in decent shape for its age 

Edited by Offroadingrlife
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bullet proof!....  Parts are still available..... I built one 6 months ago... Do you know how to inspect the engine inside and out? If you are in North Carolina, I will build it for you....  Jojo

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On 1/14/2021 at 9:24 PM, Joey Mack said:

bullet proof!....  Parts are still available..... I built one 6 months ago... Do you know how to inspect the engine inside and out? If you are in North Carolina, I will build it for you....  Jojo

What’s the purpose of the red throttle knob next to the steering wheel? May be a stupid question but I have no idea what it’s used for? Don’t know how to inspect the engine, something I’ll certainly need to look Into

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secondary throttle,, pull it out and twist to lock,, for whatever you need the engine to run up higher.... P.T.O. for example..  Jojo

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yup, hand throttle. or as us old farts used to call it, manual cruise control. 

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when you are up to your armpits in alligators,

it is hard to remember you only came in to drain the swamp..

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Just now, tjc transport said:

yup, hand throttle. or as us old farts used to call it, manual cruise control. 

Haha I remember those days. Get out on the big road at night and pull throttle lock out and stretch your legs. Just don't fall asleep

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23 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

secondary throttle,, pull it out and twist to lock,, for whatever you need the engine to run up higher.... P.T.O. for example..  Jojo

Ahh, that makes sense, I’ve never seen it before so wasn’t sure what it was. I’m hoping to be able to look at this truck here soon and pick it up before asphalt season starts and get it working!

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I’ve been in the construction business all my life,it was a family thing.Just remember dump trucks go past the curb.Once they leave the blacktop school out.By that I mean it not a smooth ride anymore.All the twisting and bending start.We had 15 79 dm600 triaxles that were built like brick shit houses never had a problem but we spec them the way we wanted.Check the frames and cross members for any cracking and splitting.As long as the motor does have excess blow by just run it.You can always do a rebuild before you put it to work.Just my 2 cents worth.I would not look at anything other then a Mack.My son sell used trucks for the the local Mack dealer here in Philadelphia,Pa.Where are you at,will tell him to keep a lookout.

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16 hours ago, hicrop10 said:

I’ve been in the construction business all my life,it was a family thing.Just remember dump trucks go past the curb.Once they leave the blacktop school out.By that I mean it not a smooth ride anymore.All the twisting and bending start.We had 15 79 dm600 triaxles that were built like brick shit houses never had a problem but we spec them the way we wanted.Check the frames and cross members for any cracking and splitting.As long as the motor does have excess blow by just run it.You can always do a rebuild before you put it to work.Just my 2 cents worth.I would not look at anything other then a Mack.My son sell used trucks for the the local Mack dealer here in Philadelphia,Pa.Where are you at,will tell him to keep a lookout.

I’m over in ma. I mean I feel as if miles are somewhat of a dealbreaker, if I’m buying a 96 one has 700K with no history and one has 400K with no history, I’d go for the lower Mile one. But I do suppose it’s all a gamble and just a chance you take, I’m looking for one that’s relatively cheap, 25-35k probably with the lowest miles and best shape. For the first truck just to get my feet wet I don’t want to spend more than I have to, that way I can keep a emergency fund.

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The more I think about what you are planning on doing the more I’m gonna say don’t do it.You are talking about using a antique for every day use.Unless you are a mechanic or at the very least very mechanical you may be in for more than you bargained for.If you are using it for a site truck it won’t be as bad,but if you are going to be pounding down the highway all day you better be prepared to be under it quite often.It’s tough to crave out a living with a new truck let alone a 25 plus year old truck.Down here in Philadelphia the going rate for a triaxle is around $90.00 hr.Do the math.Driver going to cost $20-25 or more hour,insurance $7500 year,tires.I was going to buy a new Mack $190,000 plus put it in my daughter name for the minority business.Now mind you I have all the connections so the truck will work,I did the math and it doesn’t work.Sorry if I piss in your cheerio’s but you know all the facts.

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1 hour ago, hicrop10 said:

The more I think about what you are planning on doing the more I’m gonna say don’t do it.You are talking about using a antique for every day use.Unless you are a mechanic or at the very least very mechanical you may be in for more than you bargained for.If you are using it for a site truck it won’t be as bad,but if you are going to be pounding down the highway all day you better be prepared to be under it quite often.It’s tough to crave out a living with a new truck let alone a 25 plus year old truck.Down here in Philadelphia the going rate for a triaxle is around $90.00 hr.Do the math.Driver going to cost $20-25 or more hour,insurance $7500 year,tires.I was going to buy a new Mack $190,000 plus put it in my daughter name for the minority business.Now mind you I have all the connections so the truck will work,I did the math and it doesn’t work.Sorry if I piss in your cheerio’s but you know all the facts.

You hit the button on the head. 

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18 hours ago, hicrop10 said:

The more I think about what you are planning on doing the more I’m gonna say don’t do it.You are talking about using a antique for every day use.Unless you are a mechanic or at the very least very mechanical you may be in for more than you bargained for.If you are using it for a site truck it won’t be as bad,but if you are going to be pounding down the highway all day you better be prepared to be under it quite often.It’s tough to crave out a living with a new truck let alone a 25 plus year old truck.Down here in Philadelphia the going rate for a triaxle is around $90.00 hr.Do the math.Driver going to cost $20-25 or more hour,insurance $7500 year,tires.I was going to buy a new Mack $190,000 plus put it in my daughter name for the minority business.Now mind you I have all the connections so the truck will work,I did the math and it doesn’t work.Sorry if I piss in your cheerio’s but you know all the facts.

Around here the rate is pretty close to that. 
I’m driving the truck, so I won’t have to pay a driver. 
Insurance is less than 5k a year. 
I have contacts at local companies and can get work. 
If you can’t buy a new truck, you have to start somewhere and an older one is what it has to be. If you can’t buy a new truck how do you get started then? 
I did the math and on paper seems like the numbers are pretty good.. but again I have no idea hence why I’m looking for help

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Enough said,take the plunge.My only suggestion would be to try and get something a little newer.Unless you really know the history of the truck,you may be buying a pig with a whole lot of perfume spayed on.Good luck my friend.

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18 hours ago, hicrop10 said:

Enough said,take the plunge.My only suggestion would be to try and get something a little newer.Unless you really know the history of the truck,you may be buying a pig with a whole lot of perfume spayed on.Good luck my friend.

Around here is seems like a lot of guys are running older Mack’s, but I don’t know why. I’m trying to find something newer but not having much luck, may have to keep looking at rethink about my plan and do this next year

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1 hour ago, Offroadingrlife said:

I dove off in the same creek as you. Bought a 79 rs686 with 370k. Paid 12 for it and gonna put it on the road. Drove it 3 hours home, hauled 4 loads of crushed concrete with it the other day, got a tad bit of blow by but a strong truck none the less. Been tinkering on it some mainly just cosmetic and minor air leaks. New batteries that type of thing before I dedicate her to work for 10 hours a day. The good older trucks are out there. Not knowing any history on it does kinda suck but a wore out old mechanical one can be fixed with a wrench if you have any sense, no computer knowledge required. Dive off in there ol son it’ll work out. 👍🏼

Edited by eshack93
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7 hours ago, Rob said:

You wanting older, simple, and economical to keep maintained? Get yourself an older R686 series and install a Detroit Diesel 6V-92TA under the hood, and a Mack T2090 or Fuller behind it if the original engine is bad. Don't try to run the std TR-107 series or six speed TRD-107 series as the Detroit's don't have the torque band to fit. Fix it with a hammer, pliers, and RTV for the most part. Very easy to bump horsepower to what is considered acceptable levels with this engine when tuned correctly and they are damned reliable. Parts are well supported by many aftermarket vendors also.  

You are going to be hard pressed to destroy an older R series originally equipped with a Mack driveline, but parts do wear and are usually supported through PAI and other aftermarket venues. Of course if you purchase a well worn unit up front, there will be repairs and upkeep needing prior address before moving forward with the project if it is to go anyplace. It does sound as if you have a bit of time on your side and you should use it accordingly to locate what you are looking for, or are willing to undertake.

You only get out of, what you put in. An older truck is an investment in your future; same as a newer truck. It can be done, but you'll need to stay on top of it to become, and remain profitable with either avenue. A benefit as I see it is an older truck does not have the massive overhead of a newer truck; especially when it comes to reliability issues and associated downtime so many have experienced. 

Your earlier statement of not paying a driver is erroneous. You yourself will be driving, but I don't really think you are willing to perform the service without a wage. The truck will have to work to provide that wage, and it's upkeep, so you will be paying a driver, along with funding the operation.

I'm just a newbie around this arena, but here I go with all that guessing again.....

The part about paying the driver.. what I meant is I’m not hiring someone and laying them 25-30 an hour. I obviously will be paying myself a salary, but it won’t be close to that as I want to grow the business. 
I have some mechanical ability and feel as if I will be able to fix some things myself. I know it’s an used truck things wear out and break. No way around that. 

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1 hour ago, Rob said:

Can't hardly beat that into some people; till they live the dream themselves.

the kw dealer near me has a 7 axle realllly nice looking dump on the lot $ 214.000 range  ----- unreal

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