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77_Cruiser

Tricky Pitman Arm Location on '77 Cruiseliner Cabover

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Hey,

Just looking for any tips on how to address getting this steering box off. It is leaking and needs a full internals overhaul but I cannot do anything with it locked in place. However, I tried a fancy $400 Pitman arm puller and could not even get the thing to fit around because of the unorthodox installation angle of the arm and steer box in the Cruiseliner. I am aware of some generic pullers that you can get on Amazon for instance, but not sure if they are even worth the trouble. My guess is that the arm has been in place since 1977 so I need a serious approach if possible. Otherwise, not sure if I can do a full overhaul on the steering box while it is still attached to the axle.

Suggestions are more than very appreciated. Thank you.

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If you can find a puller that will work try heating up the pitman arm before pulling on it. 

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6 minutes ago, Lmackattack said:

This is a dumb question but did you try pulling on it with that bolt out? the bolt needs to be removed for it to slide off.

Good catch. 

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Posted (edited)
7 minutes ago, Lmackattack said:

This is a dumb question but did you try pulling on it with that bolt out? the bolt needs to be removed for it to slide off.

Unfortunately, that bolt cannot move out of the slot as is due to length restrictions. But it is not a tight fit. It wobbles in all three rotation directions in there so I think at least this arm can be removed with the bold sitting there. I understand that is probably not usually the case, but hopefully this is the exception. Otherwise, I need to start breaking down the frame and I don't think that was the intended approach from Mack. But, I could be wrong. I guess it is only the shock in the way in that location...

Edited by 77_Cruiser
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I see on another post that there may be away with a slack adjuster puller and maybe some butane. The throat is 2.5". I see big and small slack adjusters on Ebay. Any guess which size would be best to try?

Also, since it is a clamp style arm with an opening, could a jack hammer work here?

s-l500.jpg

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Its been about 10 years but on My Western RS700 I put on a power steering box that looks just like that. I recall the bolt needs to be out all the way to pull it off the shaft. the shaft has a indent all the way around that allows about 1/4 width of the bolt to sit in. that bolt prevents it from falling off if the clamping force weakens.. hope you can follow that... So basically you need to remove the bolt and it should slide right off without much trouble if you can already feel slop in it. try turninging the steering wheel and see if it gives you the needed room to pull the bolt out

 

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It is a very different setup, but worth a try.

Will repost regarding the results in a few days.

 

 

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Yeah bolts gotta come out. Torch the head off and get a new bolt or just take the shock off.  Also, drive a chisel into the split to open it up while you put the puller on it. Heat is your friend here also. And penetrating oil. And a BF hammer.

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Or turn the wheel to change orientation of that bolt. But it's gotta come out. Not familiar with the truck setup, but I'd have that wheel off for working room too. 

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4 hours ago, JoeH said:

Or turn the wheel to change orientation of that bolt. But it's gotta come out. Not familiar with the truck setup, but I'd have that wheel off for working room too. 

Same set up on the Superliner I's

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6 hours ago, 41chevy said:

Same set up on the Superliner I's

Unfamiliar with that setup too! Lol. Only worked on an R686st, a dm686sx, an rd688s and an rd690s. That's about the extent of my truck knowledge, we have a couple 70's Mack yard trucks with 237's. 

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As Trent stated the bolt does have to be removed. The pitman shaft, (sector shaft is proper name) has a concave radius machined into is circumference and the bolt, (capscrew) slides through this radius disallowing removal of the pitman arm with it in place.

I have a puller by "Tiger Tool" for that task but it wouldn't do the arm on a Superliner once so I made one using an OTC puller frame and forcing screw, and 1/4" aircraft cables which did work.

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Posted (edited)

Yup bolts got to be out cut the head off and put the nut back on the bottom and get it spinning with an impact alternative is you got to take u bolts out any way leave the pitman arm on till it’s on the ground 

Edited by fjh

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