Racecorr Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 HiNew to The Forum here, thanks for your time guys. I have an 07 Vision that I bought used with about 450,000 miles on it. I bought it specifically to work out of town, I hired a driver and the thing ran flawlessly for about a year. One morning I got a call from my driver it appears is that the radiator has started leaking. I contact Mack get a new radiator have my mechanic install it. About 3 days after its back on the road my driver calls me and tells me that the radiator has started leaking, I called Mack they tell me that they've had problems with this radiator they warranty it send me a new one and my mechanic installs it in the meantime we lose the contract out of town. Once the truck is ready to go I fly down pick it up and bring it home, it sets for the better part of a year until a friend of mine needs a little bit of help around town so I put my Mac back to work. After about a week pop there goes another radiator. Mac is already told me that they've had problems with these radiators I contact my local Mack dealer and they sell me an all-metal one, I figured that that's going to take care of the cheap plastic and aluminum radiator problems that I've been having. The truck starts acting goofy overheating but not consistently, itstarts to spray coolant out of one of the coolant filters is starts to puke coolant out of the expansion tank, and my mechanic says the problem that we've been having is the EGR cooler, so we replace it. Once its back on the road the truck continues to overheat my mechanic can't figure it out, so I take it to Mack and they tell me that I've got a bad liner. I get an in-frame done with new liners,Pistons, rods, 2 new heads, and I we've solved the problem of my cooling system pressurizing. I picked up a new contract for more work out of town, and as I'm delivering the truck pop there goes another radiator. I contact Mack they send me a new radiator I contact my mechanic and I tell him this is the last radiator we're going to put in. He spends a good amount of time trying to figure out what is wrong and why we keep losing radiators. He replaces the air compressor, an updated expansion tank, and Hood assist Springs. He is now certain that we figured out what is causing these radiators to split at the seams. After four and a half days of work pop there goes another radiator. So just to refresh you guys that's 5 radiators, and EGR cooler, and air compressor, and expansion tank, hood springs, and a complete in frame with rods, Pistons, liners, and two new heads. Any other ideas what could be causing these radiators to split at the seams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 damm.......not being a smart ass here....But is the radiator cap venting off excessive pressure like it should? I would think you would louse water first thru the cap before it pops the radiator.? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41chevy Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 Cap was my thought also. Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 (edited) Intake screen at the oil cooler pluged?these have caused a lot of greef at times Edited December 19, 2017 by fjh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtymilkman Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 I was going to say cap too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackpro Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 Is this a ASET engine or early MP7? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racecorr Posted December 19, 2017 Author Share Posted December 19, 2017 I've changed numerous caps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racecorr Posted December 19, 2017 Author Share Posted December 19, 2017 21 minutes ago, Mackpro said: Is this a ASET engine or early MP7? I'm not sure..E7 is all I know for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackpro Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 If grey motor then I'd look at the screen in the "Y" hose below the oil cooler. And also if a AI water pump was installed on a AC engine it can cause wired issues. Pulley size is different between the two models Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racecorr Posted December 19, 2017 Author Share Posted December 19, 2017 1 hour ago, Mackpro said: If grey motor then I'd look at the screen in the "Y" hose below the oil cooler. And also if a AI water pump was installed on a AC engine it can cause wired issues. Pulley size is different between the two models What if it's green? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 (edited) GREEN WTF ? Does the engine have two heads or one big head the MP engine will have MP7 or MP8 on the intake manifold RED engine THE E7 will likely be painted GREY with two valve covers ,How ever if you are color blind it could be brown or pink or yellow or painted intentionally a different color ! If so identifiable by two valve covers! Gray check the screen at the cooler pipe Red possible injector cup issue! as you have checked the EGR cooler! Edited December 19, 2017 by fjh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racecorr Posted December 19, 2017 Author Share Posted December 19, 2017 33 minutes ago, fjh said: GREEN WTF ? Does the engine have two heads or one big head the MP engine will have MP7 or MP8 on the intake manifold RED engine THE E7 will likely be painted GREY with two valve covers ,How ever if you are color blind it could be brown or pink or yellow or painted intentionally a different color ! If so identifiable by two valve covers! Gray check the screen at the cooler pipe Red possible injector cup issue! as you have checked the EGR cooler! Thank you for the clarification...it does have 2 heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 (edited) Your welcome 🙏 good luck with your issue keep us posted on the progress Edited December 19, 2017 by fjh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racecorr Posted December 19, 2017 Author Share Posted December 19, 2017 I just got off the horn with my mechanic..and he told me about a service bulletin about the thermostat housing, apparently the OEM housing can cause a surge. I think we may be hitting on something here... because it seems every time I split the radiator it's after the truck is shut off, and it always seems to split the upper tank from the radiator itself. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 its possible I guess but the cap should let off any pressure built up be it water or air. What is the rating on the cap? if its too high other parts will let go before the cap bleeds off pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 I'd think an 07 will have the thermostat housing port update from Factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 (edited) You should have A 16 lbs cap. thermostat update was 2-15-06. You have two dimple flats for punching the top of thermostat housing, one will say 520 and one will say 521P2. If the dimple is punched by 521P2 you are current. My money also is on checking debris screen. Everything, including compressor return, is going to go through the oil cooler protection screen. So you may be working toward cooking that new compressor too. Edited December 20, 2017 by Mack Technician Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackpro Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 Mack Technician is correct. Yours should have the new updates done at the factory. The 2004 was the problem child Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 Only thing not consistant is the coolant filter blowing out. It should be on its own closed loop with the water pump, as far as I can tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phase 1 Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 7 hours ago, Racecorr said: I just got off the horn with my mechanic..and he told me about a service bulletin about the thermostat housing, apparently the OEM housing can cause a surge. I think we may be hitting on something here... because it seems every time I split the radiator it's after the truck is shut off, and it always seems to split the upper tank from the radiator itself. Thoughts? Check to see if the outlet hose from the neck is blocked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 (edited) Now As for the coolant filter we once had one of these and it was low liner protrusion same symptoms YOU HAVE rad cracking AND WOULD BLOW THE FILTER OFF Last resort thought! throws up a red flag for me! check the screen if its not there your going on a head trip in my opinion! Edited December 20, 2017 by fjh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 (edited) so if the screen issue don't conclude this saga ! Next To find leak on head gasket ! Try this. drain coolant to just below thermostat level remove water pump belt and stats fill the housing to stat level run the engine and watch for bubbles If the bubbles come from the back it can still be the compressor from the front its obvious what to do! Edited December 20, 2017 by fjh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackpro Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 A few weeks ago I had a AI engine that was pushing coolant when hot. After trying several things I finally got truck hot and pulled the injectors real fast and then removed the radiator cap. I used a long rubber tipped blow gun and pressureized each cylinder till one started blowing bubbles in the surge tank. Pulled heads and checked head gaskets and liner height. Finally installed re-man Mack heads and all good 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Tricky, I like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 18 hours ago, Mackpro said: A few weeks ago I had a AI engine that was pushing coolant when hot. After trying several things I finally got truck hot and pulled the injectors real fast and then removed the radiator cap. I used a long rubber tipped blow gun and pressureized each cylinder till one started blowing bubbles in the surge tank. Pulled heads and checked head gaskets and liner height. Finally installed re-man Mack heads and all good Was it a 460 or 427 horse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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