Bliue dm Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 So to sum it up. The pump has some special groove on it to line up with the shaft. But am I still supposed to have the motor up at top dead center before I change? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliue dm Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 Some one told me that as long as I d don't turn motor pump can only slide on one way. Which seemed to be true. But it was obvious during start up that things are way off. I've read many different threads but none have sent me in the right direction. Mack 350 2v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliue dm Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 No one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackdog2 Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 there is an adjustment on front of motor under timming cover did you change pump or swap Quote Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliue dm Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 Changing pump. Old to new Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliue dm Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 Pulled pump off. There was a spleen there with a dowel pin in it. Issue is I'm not getting any clear-cut information on whether this thing is supposed to be timed or because it has a key only fits on one way. Well not a key. There's a funny cut in the gear on the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 We pulled a pump off a 285 years ago to have it re calabrated for sled pulling and it went right back on without needing to be timed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliue dm Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 Is it the correct statement that I can only go on one way? Is it possible to be forced on the wrong way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 (edited) The dowel on the engine side is meant to go on the pumpside where the cut out is on the hub it will be in time or at least where it was when you took it off if your putting a diffrent pump on then YOU should time it! put the dowel faceing you so you can see it and put thr hub cutaway in the approximate same spot Approx 2 oclock i have found is the best location for install DO NOT pull it in with the bolts if it wont go in up to the bolt flange IT AN T IN RIGHT! Edited October 11, 2017 by fjh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliue dm Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 Thank you. And still time motor to degree setting on tag on pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 I think what FJH is saying is that if the same pump you took off is put back on. the timing will not have changed and will be set correctly. If this is a different pump going back in then it needs to be timed to be 100% sure its correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 9 hours ago, Lmackattack said: I think what FJH is saying is that if the same pump you took off is put back on. the timing will not have changed and will be set correctly. If this is a different pump going back in then it needs to be timed to be 100% sure its correct. Trent is Correct! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliue dm Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 Understood. Pump is on truck. It starts but won't rev up in a lot of white smoke. I know it's out of time. My question is now am I still off in cycle? For this pump only goes on one way and the only thing left for me to do is degree it?. There's a 4 degree difference between both pumps. The old one was 22 BTC. The new one is 18 BTC. Will that 4 degrees give me the consistent white smoke and no Rev? Or do I need to take pump off and rotate engine one more time to next cycle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Help us out a little more here... After you pulled the fuel pump off of the engine....Did the engine get turned over or was the truck moved around the shop while in gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 and I dont think 4 degrees will make much difference just at idle or no load revving. we advanced the timing on a sled puller and it made no smoke at idle and reved out just fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliue dm Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 Yes engine was bumped over without pump on. Update it's now revving up. Had air in system. Still out of time though. Now I feel 4 degrees is the difference. Still white smoke though but fires right up. It's pinging a little as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliue dm Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 Is this pump a waste fire system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliue dm Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 I would have never went about it this way. But I had local can't mechanic tell me it only go on one way. So now I'm not sure if that's the case or that it can still go in off cycle. I guess that's that what I'm not sure about. I know that it still has to be timed but it's the four degree difference going to going to change the issues that I have going on. Like I said truck is now revving up but pinging like the timing is off and still white smoke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 You can flow time to check the timing.Remove the nut that holds the fuel line adapter down on # 1 and remove the delivery valve spring and tighten the nut back down.With fuel throttle in full fuel position and stop cable in run position pump the primer pump watching the fuel flow out of the fuel line adapter and turn the engine in run rotation very slow untill the fuel flow just cuts off.That is start of injection for # 1 cyl and the timing marks should line up to specs and not close but exactly.Recheck till you are sure its right and if not set the timing with the slotted bolts on the front drive under the little plate. 1 Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 If the puff limiter is connected then bleed all of the air down. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliue dm Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 There is no primer on pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliue dm Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 Can we kinda start back at the top. The pump does it only go on one way. It has the funny cut out in the gear. Right now it's lined up over top the dowel. Slid right on. Can i I be on wrong stroke even tho truck fired up and revs. White smoke. If so then please some one tell me the the directions from the top on setting up this pump. Right now truck starts but runs real ruff with white smoke. It does rev up. Pump on before was set at 22btc. The new pump calls for 18btc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliue dm Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 Guys don't give up on me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 If I were in your shoes I'd take it down to the dealer (or inj pump shop) and let the oldest, ancient knowledge, guy in the shop give me a guaranteed proper timing set. Ive done it a bunch of times and would still take mine in. Can't substitute proper flow-time tooling. Can't take chances on engine damage. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 (edited) This here is real hard to explain How ever I will try!!!! Set it at 22 I've had this issue on a V8 ! use Glenns method ! WITH A TWIST : number one delivery valve and spring removed Delivery valve nut reinstalled ! connect a Number six fuel line to the inlet of the fuel pump inlet ! ( THE TWIST )once this is done blow into the line WITH YOUR Mouth Have someone start (with engine before TDC ) turn the engine while blowing on the tube when you feel the flow or blowing stop and you can,t blow thru( AIR STOPS COMING THRU number one injection line port ) thats time of injection! check the numbers on the damper that is what its timed for NOW! The gear hub is slotted on the front of the pump (set the engine ) on your desired degree 18 or 22 loosen the 4 pump slot bolts repeat the blow time method by turning the pump by the center nut till blowing stops (time of injection) tighten the slot bolts back the engine up to where you started Before TDC blowing again and turning it back to confirm it stop at the degree set one your happy with the set 18 or 22 re install the delivery VALVE AND SPRING put he line on number one hook the fuel supply up and light it up and see how it runs ! re install the cover once you confirm how it runs hope this helps! Edited October 13, 2017 by fjh 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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