Bringing home another dog

[j hancock]

Time for a pump rebuild or new pump.

[beatngu]

Copy that I'll grab a voltage reducer and take the pump apart

[41chevy]

1 hour ago, beatngu said:

Copy that I'll grab a voltage reducer and take the pump apart

It will also kill the 6 volt coil. Simpler to get a 12 volt coil, points and condenser for the ignition rather than step the volts down.

[beatngu]

Got the pump apart AC model D diaphragms are cracked. Going to hit eBay and google for a rebuild kit or replacement. I am thinking I could find a 12v points condenser and coil at napa if not tractor supply thanks for the heads up

[41chevy]

2 hours ago, beatngu said:

Got the pump apart AC model D diaphragms are cracked. Going to hit eBay and google for a rebuild kit or replacement. I am thinking I could find a 12v points condenser and coil at napa if not tractor supply thanks for the heads up

Don't forget that the blower motor for the heater / defroster unless you can match up one, WILL need a resistor to cut the volts down to 6 or 8 volt.

[fxfymn]

Here is the pump I put on mine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIQ5DG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has two posts so you can use it on a positive ground system.

[beatngu]

We were just talking about doing that today, would be quick, easy and pretty cheap

[Maddog13407]

did you double check and make sure it really is6 volt? or did someone hook the two original 6 volt batteries in series to make 12?

[beatngu]

Yeah both positives linked together. The regulator had 6v stamped into it as well

[beatngu]

So looking into the 12v cool points and condenser I found there were systems with built in resistance and external resistors. I am thinking non resisted circuit, anybody know some part numbers to do this conversion? Being born into the age of fuel injection has its downfalls when working on equipment that is twice my age 

[41chevy]

1 hour ago, beatngu said:

So looking into the 12v cool points and condenser I found there were systems with built in resistance and external resistors. I am thinking non resisted circuit, anybody know some part numbers to do this conversion? Being born into the age of fuel injection has its downfalls when working on equipment that is twice my age 

Pre HEI GM had a resister wire from the ignition to the coil, Chrysler had a ceramic ballast  resister on the firewall , some had the ceramic resistor mounted on the coil bracket .and some had a resister built in to the coil . What they do is limit the voltage to the points them selves to prevent them from burning out. Generally the points and condenser will work with or without the resistor BUT they will fail sooner then not.

You could always run a Pertronix conversion and eliminate everything  but the 12 volt coil. You could get the Pertronix from NAPA, Auto Zone or and good parts store.   Paul  

[beatngu]

alrighty, I see they have a selection of kits. somewhere along the lines of a 6cyl gm should do the trick?

[beatngu]

After digging for a while I came up with this kit https://brillman.com/product/b255ls-12-volt-negative-ground-delco-distributor-electronic-ignition-kit/

[41chevy]

2 minutes ago, beatngu said:

After digging for a while I came up with this kit https://brillman.com/product/b255ls-12-volt-negative-ground-delco-distributor-electronic-ignition-kit/

Looks good.   Paul

[beatngu]

I did the cheap and dirty just bought a resistor to wire before the ignition. Got the fuel pump in today so that will be part of the weekend projects. I plan to flip it to negative ground, just hook the battery up accordingly flip flop the coil wires? 

[41chevy]

2 hours ago, beatngu said:

I did the cheap and dirty just bought a resistor to wire before the ignition. Got the fuel pump in today so that will be part of the weekend projects. I plan to flip it to negative ground, just hook the battery up accordingly flip flop the coil wires? 

It's been a long time but with a generator as I recall you need to re polarize it to charge correctly. Might have to swap the wires from side to side on the Amp gauge to read correctly also. . If you leave it as a positive ground gen and regulator it will fry the regulator and discharge the batteries when running.

.

1 - Polarizing procedure is same for positive or negative ground, 6 or 12 volt.
2 - The purpose of polarizing is to tell the generator whether to output positive or negative ground.

3-  Polarize generator. With engine not running and battery connected, momentarily jumper a wire between generator Armature post and battery terminal on regulator. Touch wire to nut on the armature post, NOT the threads as this will produce an arc and could damage threads

Edited May 19, 2017 by 41chevy

[beatngu]

I was planning on going to a single wire alternator to simplify things a little. Read up on here about people using a delco 25si I think it was

[Maddog13407]

for that tiny little 401 gas, all you need is a little small block chevy alternator

[beatngu]

Okay got her running on the electric fuel pump a real thing of beauty