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1958 B61 Restoration Questions


58GreenMackB

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As of Monday, I am now the proud owner of a 1958 Mack B61 single axle tractor.  I have a few general questions and I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction on a few things:

Where can I find manuals for the B61?  I have found wiring diagrams and other information on this forum, but want a good service manual to better understand the mechanics.

I'm in need of the following parts:

  • One of the shock connecting rods.  Mine gave up on the way home and was slightly bent by the time I realized it let loose.
  • Tachometer Cable.  I have the cable, but the center metal piece that turns is missing.

Is there a good place to source used parts from?

Does anyone have any advice on getting the front shocks restored?  I have the old lever type units and have seen various companies that service them for GM, Ford, Etc., but wanted to see if anyone knew of a good company to have them serviced/rebuilt.

Last thing I am looking into only because I do not want it to get worse is restoring the steering wheel.  I have an older Corvette that I had someone restore years ago.  It came out looking brand new and I could not figure out how he did it.  Is there someone that restores the old Mack wheels?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Love this truck and my goal is to get it restored back to its former glory.  If anyone else has any additional input for me as a new owner, I would appreciate that as well.  

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Check this link for a look at the shocks.  http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/tutorials/article/202-houdaille-level-shock-rebuild/

Ebay will be a source for literature for the B and Hemming's Motor News for a steering wheel restoration shop.  I had decent luck using an Eastwood steering wheel kit.  If it is really bad, a restoration shop makes a new mold for the wheel and basically casts a new one around the wire core.

The shock rod can be made from a piece of rod stock with threaded ends and put the rod ends back on if my memory is holding up.  Checking with a speedometer shop should yield you a cable center or a brand new cable.  Or measure the length you need and the Mack dealer should be able to get you one.  Same style of cable was used in the R models etc.

Jim

It doesn't cost anything to pay attention.

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I would flush out the ancient oil from the chocks and work the lever to get as much out as possible. Fresh shock oil (NOT JACK OIL!) will usually get them working again. They usually go because they were never serviced at the prescribed 3000 mile intervals. Also they are designed to seep some oil from the shafts, so that's normal. They really don't do much on a heavy truck because of the heavy spring rates so keep that in mind before spending upwards of $500  or more per unit for a rebuild.

E Bay or similar site for literature.

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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Thanks for the input.  I got the one shock off today and it is free, but doesn't have any rebound to it.  I know that these old trucks are never going to be a smooth ride.  I am just trying to make everything work like it was designed to right now.  Making the new shock rod isn't a problem for me.  The issue is that the upper part of the rod got dragged on the ground and is missing a little bit of it.  That is the part I need to replace with all the guts.  The other side is in good shape.  Just had to take my impact and rip it off at a truck stop. 

One other question:  Which manual numbers do you recommend.  There is a lot of Mack Truck Manuals I see, but want to get the ones specific to the B model.

Thanks again.

 

 

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Try the Mack Museum. I got what they call a Highway Vehicle Service Manual, initial issue Oct, 1967, that has pretty good coverage for the B Models. They provide the information for free but request a donation to the museum.

I got an estimate to redo the steering wheel for in the $800 range 013.JPGdepending on a visual inspection. I ended up  using PC-7 epoxy and glazing compound after watching a utube video. The cost was about $40 and about 3 hours work. It turned out as they say "good enough for govt work".  I used  SEM spray paint for flexible parts along with a satin clear.

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5 hours ago, 58GreenMackB said:

Thanks for the input.  I got the one shock off today and it is free, but doesn't have any rebound to it.  I know that these old trucks are never going to be a smooth ride.  I am just trying to make everything work like it was designed to right now.  Making the new shock rod isn't a problem for me.  The issue is that the upper part of the rod got dragged on the ground and is missing a little bit of it.  That is the part I need to replace with all the guts.  The other side is in good shape.  Just had to take my impact and rip it off at a truck stop. 

One other question:  Which manual numbers do you recommend.  There is a lot of Mack Truck Manuals I see, but want to get the ones specific to the B model.

Thanks again.

 

 

Follow the Houdalle  article in the link and add shock oil and work the lever up and down slowly to move the oil through the valving and bleed out any air. You can get "shock oil"  which is called Fork Oil at a motorcycle shop, about 60 t0 90 weight works well. The ball end of the rod may cross over to a Houdalle GM truck or Ford Truck from the late 1930 to 1947, both civilain and Military (CCKW353 and such 2.5 toners) Look for the item called Shock Links. There is always a bunch at the Fall Hersey.    Paul

Edited by 41chevy

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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17 hours ago, HarryS said:

I'm pretty sure it was medium prairie tan.

Classic Coat™ - 17063

It came out a little lighter than the color chip but not bad. Then SEM satin clear.

Correction, I found the empty can and it SEM Color Coat Sante Fe #15123.

 

 

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Thanks for all the input.  The steering wheel looks great! I'll try working the shocks to see if I can get them to operate again.  I figured out why the shock link fell off after taking the old one out.  The ball was so worn down that it just slid out of the assembly.  I'll have to figure out where I can get a replacement ball, but plan on going up to Fall Hershey to see what I can pick up.  Its a different experience for me doing stuff on this truck.  I'm used to old Corvette stuff where I can basically pick out any part from a catalog and have it here in a few days.  I think this way it makes it rewarding when I get it fixed and working right.  

My current project is getting the speedometer operational.  Someone had cross threaded the transmission adapter for the Stewart Warner 666P.  I'll have to retap it, which isn't a big deal.  Also at some point the gearing in the assembly froze up and stripped the drive shaft in this assembly.  I cannot find a 666P assembly, but it appears the components in a 666F are the same.  I bought one of the 666F assemblies on eBay and hope to use parts from both to make 1 complete unit so I can get the speedometer working again.  Luckily all the gears in the 666P appear to be in good shape.  Thanks again for everything!  Any input on the Stewart Warner 666p drive joint would be appreciated.

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I lost a shock arm years back.  Same thing, just wore out and fell out of socket and folded under the axle when it hit the pavement.  I gave up easily trying to find replacements and just got 4 heim ends and some threaded rods.  Pretty sure I used 1/2", as the holes in the brackets are 9/16"?  I tightened them down good and never came loose in 10 yrs?

With the springs on the front of a B model, I doubt they really do much anyway?

I lost my speedo about 10 yrs ago.  Kept stripping the pencil gear out, likely because the gear on the output shaft had a few chips in it(found out later).  I converted mine to electronic with the help of another forum member.  He did the electronic part and I machined the reluctor wheel for the transmission and the tailhousing for the pickup.  Works really well and when I put cruise control on it this winter I already have a good working sensor.

SDC10567.jpg

 

SDC10551.jpg

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I may be heading to hershey to see if I can get the shock rods for the truck.  However, I think your heim joint solution is a better option for the long term.  I highly doubt I'll find one in good enough condition to use on the truck. 

For now, I have a 666F speedometer gear assembly and was able to steal parts from it to make mine work or so I hope.  If this doesn't work, I will be asking you for more details on how you converted it to electronic.  Thanks for all the input!

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I'll be at Pittsburgh raceway this coming weekend if you want to check the truck out.  I'm coming over Friday afternoon, be there til Sunday evening.  Not hard to find.

My car is easy to spot also:
DSC_3583_cr_zps809283d9.jpg

Edited by Freightrain

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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PID Reunion.  Gassers, slingshots, Funny cars, and of course our stick shift group is running elims both days.

http://www.typicalgearheads.com/keystoneracewaypark/images/Flyers/2016 Nostalgia Flyer.pdf

Edited by Freightrain

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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