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58GreenMackB

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Everything posted by 58GreenMackB

  1. I was more looking for guidance on how you plumbed the air system to accept the spring brakes.
  2. Evening everyone. I bought a 1958 B Model a few years back and unfortunately it has been sitting outside waiting on a new engine. It now has a new engine to replace the tired old one getting rebuilt at the local machine shop. I am now moving onto a serious project and that is the installation of spring brake chambers. Does anyone have a good how to guide on how they upgraded their B model to spring packs to get me started on this? I have used the service manuals and done a fair amount of reading on the subject and am getting ready to purchase the pieces to tackle this project. Any input is appreciated! Thanks All! Hope everyone is having a good Memorial Day.
  3. Its an endt673. That I got out. Just need to remove the intermediate shaft.
  4. I'm looking to remove the drive assembly from the block. The pump is already removed. It looks like an axle nut socket, but was wondering if there is a specific part number to reference the tool. I did not see one in the manual.
  5. I found the info on removing the Aux shaft in the manual. Still looking for info on the tool to remove the injection pump.
  6. Can anyone tell me the process of removing an auxiliary shaft on an ENDT673. Also, what tool is used to remove the bearing for the injection pump in the attached picture? Thanks for all the help!
  7. Hey all. Looking for some opinions here. I have owned my 1958 for almost two years now. I have slowly brought it back to being a fully operational truck. Last year I did a complete overhaul of the front suspension and now I am working towards the next big issue the END673. It fires right up all the time even after prolonged periods of storage. However, it barely has 6psi of oil pressure at idle after heating up, the block has a 8" crack and leaks coolant (only when hot), the engine has been run without the shutterstat for quite some time, the air inlet hose was cracked and let dust and dirt into the engine for who knows how long. In addition, I have no idea when the last time the valves were adjusted. Due to the fact that I do not have a garage to work on it in, I am planning on pulling the engine and putting the truck into storage during an overhaul. I have found a local outfit that has some used engines that I was going to give a call sometime soon to see what they have. I should mention I have a complete rebuild kit for a Thermodyne so overhauling an engine is not an issue. Just wanted to get everyone's opinion. Should I look for a new block and engine? Is there a better block to start with if I do? Would there be any issues if I found an ENDT673? My biggest concern now is if I do nothing that the engine will eventually fail and lead to a bigger repair bill. The only benefit I see to overhauling another motor is that I can swap it in and continue to enjoy the truck until it is ready. However, I am also probably taking the original motor out of the truck when I do. My goal from the moment I bought the truck was to restore it back to the way it left the Mack factory. I think it is critical to preserve these trucks for future generations to enjoy. Any input is greatly appreciated on this!
  8. Hi all. Working on getting parts together for overhauling my engine next summer and one of the things on my list is putting a muffler on it. It is brutal to ride in that thing for long periods of time with a straight pipe. Anyways, I am looking for the 8.5" diameter Mack mufflers that are stainless steel. So far I haven't had much luck finding anything other than aluminized. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Barry mentioned that PAI used to have them, but wasn't able to find anything with my internet search.
  9. A switch on the left side of my dash was replaced with a toggle switch, but I saw that some like mine had an extra hole with a knob I couldn't identify. I found out through researching various pictures of B series that there was a defroster switch in that hole. I will get the information from the Mack Museum to find out more about the switch. Not 100% sure it originally came on my truck. Even if it didn't, I will pass the knowledge onto others. It is my goal to return my truck with some minor upgrades to as close to original as possible. Always fun to learn something new.
  10. What’s the best way to contact them to get this info?
  11. I am looking into replacing a switch for the defroster circuit on a B series. I know the original switch was a 1 ohm 3 position switch, but need to see a circuit diagram to find a suitable replacement. Does anyone know where I can find one for the defroster circuit?
  12. Oh I should mention I currently have: Headlight Switch Marker Light Switch Heater Switch
  13. So I am in the process of restoring the dash on my 58' B Model. I had all the original switches on my truck and what I thought was a toggle switch someone added. After searching the internet, I've come to the conclusion that the hole is original, but the toggle switch was not. I have not been able to read what the switch actually is in the pictures that I found. The only thing I can think of is for the defrosters. Can anyone shed light on what switch was in the hole circled in yellow?
  14. Thanks. I was able to find a replacement for it. It took some time, but the chart below may be helpful to someone else. I used the 229844N for my truck, the yellow was just highlighted on the website I found this.
  15. Has anyone replaced the quick release valve for the rear brakes on a B61 recently? If so, can you recommend what type of valve you used to replace the original?
  16. The old rule of thumb I've heard is a minimum of 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. Of course, this is just a rule of thumb and it really depends on the motor you're dealing with and that everything is getting sufficient lubrication. There so many factors that affect oil pressure, which explains why manufacturers list such a wide variance as within spec. I wouldn't worry about it unless it starts to drop closer to the 10 psi number.
  17. I've been going through something similar on my B61. Engine fires right up even in cold weather so I know the injection pump is good and that I have good compression. However, if I run it in summer I will get 6-8 PSi at idle, but 32psi running down the road. I talked to my machinist about what could be wrong and how to correct it. He agrees the pressure is way too low, but knowing where the "leak" is requires tearing into the motor. It could be too much clearance in the main or connecting rod bearings, could be a failing oil pump, pressure relief valve that is stuck closed, faulty oil pump relief valve, a restriction in the oiling system, faulty oil pressure pick up etc. I'm sure someone else could give you some more information on things to test. In my research though, some of these engines run for years this way and never miss a beat. I'll find out the cause next spring when we tear into it, but I understand the concern.
  18. Not that scientific, but makes sense. Thanks
  19. Good evening all. I got to this point on my truck and have a few questions to get things buttoned up. The gold adjusters on the lower left hand side of the picture I tried to put back just like I had them when I removed the brakes to rebuild the axle. Is there a procedure for adjusting these? I could not find anything in the Highway Vehicle Service manual. One other question is related to air fittings that I need some clarification on. I bought DOT approved flexible air lines for the front and rear of the truck to replace the old and worn out ones. I was wondering if there is also a DOT specification for the brass air line fittings? I did some googling on it, but only found information on flexible plastic line brass connectors. I know that the burst pressure on most brass fittings far exceeds brake service, but want to make sure everything is proper as I put this thing back together. Thanks in advance!
  20. Thanks! I'll have to post some pictures of it now when I can. The whole front end is rebuilt with freshly painted red parts. Been a six month overhaul to get everything together I needed to do this, but worth the wait! It was extremely difficult to drive with all the worn out parts.
  21. I have the steering box pictured below. It has the single 1-1/8" nut to hold the steering arm on. Can anyone tell me the torque spec for this nut? Please excuse the grease. It wouldn't let me upload the current picture with it all cleaned up. Thanks!
  22. I have been looking for a few hours to find a suitable 1-1/4” tongue washer replacements for my fa505 axle spindles. The ones on the truck were destroyed by the previous owner. Anyone know where I might dig up some?
  23. I went to Watt's on this and they straightened me out on what all I needed. Got a short stroke 30/30 chamber and was lucky enough to get the original clevis yokes off the old Type 30 chambers. Another question. Pictured below are my front brakes before I got them relined and new springs. What tool do you use to put the springs on? I have seen a couple s-cam tools, but they don't seem like they'd work with these types of shoes. I do not want to spend money on things that won't work! Thanks for all the input! out
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