"startem Up Movem Out"

[Mike]

Ok guys,

I know by now this has been a troublesome question,but I need the help. This is a B that has been changed over to an Alternator from generator. He's running two 12 volt batteries. The push button starter switch does nothing. We had to start the truck by crossing the poles on the parallel switch under the seat. By doing this, the truck starts as normal. He told me the key to the ignition has been lost. So i'm assumeing the switch is on at all times? The amp meter in the truck is showing a charge. That is all the info I can give at this time.

Can someone help?

Thank you

mike

[HK Trucking]

Ok guys,

I know by now this has been a troublesome question,but I need the help. This is a B that has been changed over to an Alternator from generator. He's running two 12 volt batteries. The push button starter switch does nothing. We had to start the truck by crossing the poles on the parallel switch under the seat. By doing this, the truck starts as normal. He told me the key to the ignition has been lost. So i'm assumeing the switch is on at all times? The amp meter in the truck is showing a charge. That is all the info I can give at this time.

Can someone help?

Thank you

mike

Actually, without a key, the switch would be "off", and that's why the starter pushbutton doesn't work.

Change out the key switch to one that has a key and is operational and I'll bet the push button starter switch will work as expected.

The key switch shuts off power to the pushbutton starter switch, to prevent anyone from starting the truck without a key.

[Mike]

Hello Herb,

That was the answer I was hoping to hear, but was not certain since I only had a brief time with this truck. But for a guy that has known this B for many years, I'm surprised he didn't hotwire the vehicle at that switch. He seems to know this truck very well. His father has been the owner for about 28 years, I have had no contact with his dad. For example, I can't seem to understand why people will buy a decent $300.00 set of tires for maybe a vehicle but won't buy a simple $22.00 switch to get it started. Go Figure.

mike

[Freightrain]

Reach under the dash with a wire lead and jump the two terminal and try starter button. This will confirm a key is needed. Simple fix, like Herb mentioned.

If you don't want to buy a new switch, then take it to local locksmith and have them key it for you. My truck had different door locks and ignition(what a pain). I pulled the doors and had them made to fit the ignition key.

If I recall correctly, my key says Briggs/stratton on it?

[Mike]

Hi Larry,

Belive it or not, at 10:15p.m. last night this truck was dropped off by the previous owner, and title was signed over to me. Yea, i'm glad to own a piece of history that I thought could only be an impossible dream for this ole southern boy. Read my story when you have time. When I was later sitting in the cab. I noticed the Briggs/Stratton key was in the switch. So I'm back to wondering what could be wrong now? He started the Mack last night to get it off the lowboy the same way as mentioned before, under the seat. I don't have manuals for these B's. So, I'll have to go on memory from 30 years ago thus far. I'll soon post a picture when I figure that out also LOL.

mike

[Rob]

Hi Larry,

Belive it or not, at 10:15p.m. last night this truck was dropped off by the previous owner, and title was signed over to me. Yea, i'm glad to own a piece of history that I thought could only be an impossible dream for this ole southern boy. Read my story when you have time. When I was later sitting in the cab. I noticed the Briggs/Stratton key was in the switch. So I'm back to wondering what could be wrong now? He started the Mack last night to get it off the lowboy the same way as mentioned before, under the seat. I don't have manuals for these B's. So, I'll have to go on memory from 30 years ago thus far. I'll soon post a picture when I figure that out also LOL.

mike

The keyswitch is just that, an off and on switch. You could have either that switch bad, the push button starter switch bad, or the interconnecting wiring between them, or the series parallel switch with the problems you mention. The problem seems simple enough but you will need a wiring print to follow and ensure correct connections.

I would first jump the terminals at the back of the keyswitch as Freightrain suggests. If the engine turns over by pushing the starter button, you have a bad switch. These are readily obtainable and Barry can set you right up. If it doesn't turn over when the start button is pressed, ensure you have power to the terminals on the push button switch and if not, there is bad wiring between the keyswitch, and start switch. Assuming there is power there, (keyswitch must be on), jump the terminals on this switch with a screwdriver, or wire. If the engine now turns over the problem is this start switch. If it still does not turn over, the wiring from the start switch, to the series parallel switch is most likely defective.

You have already proven the series parallel switch to be good by jumping terminals on it to engage it's operation.

Barry has taken the time and effort to post a wiring diagram onto this site in the section reached through "Wiki" on the top banner.

Rob

[Mike]

GoodMorning Rob,

Thank you for replying, i'll look into the Wiki site. I have not been there before. Rob please excuse me if I don't answer within reasonable time, because i'm building manager this week as i'm second in command. I'm busier than a one armed paper hanger. I'll get back ASAP.

THX

mike

[Mike]

This morning I checked out the push button switch by turning on the key switch, then using a circuit tester. It showed power to the push button switch. I did not think of checking the keyed switch as I was getting power to the former switch. I assume that the parallel switch is still bad if I have to cross the poles with two screwdrivers. It starts fine this way. But not convenient.

mike

[Freightrain]

Need to test the small power lead to s/p switch, so when you push starter button, see if you get power to the s/p switch. Might be broken wire inbetween. If not, then likely the s/p switch is bad. I went thru a couple of them on my truck before converting to 12v starter. They can be cantankerous at times.

[Mike]

Larry,

Thank you for replying, and sending the info. My plate is full with other matters such as Nursing Home, Hospital visits, work, Mom, etc. But I will get back ASAP.

Thank You!!!

mike

[Mike]

This afternoon I had some time with the B. I turned the switch key on, then pushed the start button the parallel switch made a clunk noise each time I pushed the start button. I would not rule out a possible key switch problem. But I'm now thinking the parallel switch is bad. Any reply will be answered.

Thank you

mike

[Superdog]

Unscrew the end cap on the S/P switch and hold the plunger in.If it starts this way,you may only have to clean up the contacts inside it.

[Mike]

Superdog, I'll try that and reply.

Thank you!!

mike

[Freightrain]

Yes, there is a big flat washer that makes the contact for the starter. If it doesn't make full contact then it won't start. I used to have to pull mine apart occasionally. Thus it sealed the fate and I switched to 12v start.

[Mike]

I looked it over but still can't seem to understand how the s/p comes apart. I haven't taken the s/p out of the truck yet. But that is next on my list of things to do. If the large end unscrews I would be surprized. Although there is a small dimpled end toward the passenger side that has screws. I'll check it out tomorrow.

Thanks

mike

P.S. Larry, You must have decided to not go to the truck show.

[Freightrain]

Ya, Mike. My g/f and I were making plans to come over, but after it raining for the second straight day we decided against it this morning. Sure would have like to come.

Seems I recall there are two long screws that hold the whole deal together. It's been 6+ yrs since I had to play with mine(and don't miss it). I guess when they work good, they're good. Mine got to the point of "on my last nerve" and removed all of it.

[Mike]

Hi Larry,

We had an awesome day here sunny, but had plenty of the winds. I just could not stand it any longer. I had to take my first drive in my new old truck. I was hopeing the law would not pull me over to look it over. I pulled out on the main road with the ole BULLDOG howling big time. She was really sounding off!!!!! when over to my left slowing down was a local. He just looked and gave me a friendly wave, and me the same. I figured he would spot the antique plate is on the front instead of the back. I drove it about 20 minutes, air pressure running 90lbs. Temp not hardly anything. Ammeter charging. When I get this starting problem fixed, the next thing will be to fix the air compressor as I'm getting oil from the air tank. I drained out before my ride today about a quart of just black oily diesel fluid oil mix.

mike

[Superdog]

I looked it over but still can't seem to understand how the s/p comes apart. I haven't taken the s/p out of the truck yet. But that is next on my list of things to do. If the large end unscrews I would be surprized. Although there is a small dimpled end toward the passenger side that has screws. I'll check it out tomorrow.

Thanks

mike

P.S. Larry, You must have decided to not go to the truck show.

which style of S/P switch do you have?The end cap over the plunger is threaded and simply unscrews.

[Mike]

Superdog, I have been trying to send a picture of my s/p switch but only have uploaded to my profile area, but tried to put it inside the boxed area but no cigar. Can someone help with this also? I have the pictures but don't know how to send them.

Thanking Anyone!!

mike

[Freightrain]

7 yrs on the road and I don't get too worried when the fuzz is around, even when I crossed the scales.

I looked in your profile, but didn't see the pics(only the truck).

Usually in the rely post there is a "IMAGE" insert box you can click and it will link it to the post. Every website has a slightly different procedure, but not difficult.

[Mike]

7 yrs on the road and I don't get too worried when the fuzz is around, even when I crossed the scales.

I looked in your profile, but didn't see the pics(only the truck).

Usually in the rely post there is a "IMAGE" insert box you can click and it will link it to the post. Every website has a slightly different procedure, but not difficult.

[Mike]

Hey Larry,

See if you can get the picture now. This is trial and error as of now.

mike

[Freightrain]

The picture is good.

Looks just like the one I had. Pretty sure you take the three screws loose(as shown in picture) and it should all slide apart. Keep an eye on the parts as you take it apart. You can rotate the segments after you pull the three screws, so keep them marked so it fits the same way.

[Rob]

Mark your cables accordingly along with the segments of the switch elements for correct reassembly and remove from the truck. There are two heavy beryillium copper discs that are the actual contact assemblys and they burn and pit with usage. Using a stainless steel brush, clean them up well and if not melted badly reinstall. Most of the discs can be "flipped over" to use the other side without a problem. The other contacts, (actually the studs for the battery cables) the discs mate with when pulled in, are not replaceable by themselves any longer as parts are the problem.

I have a few of those switches around that have been problematic. I just replace the switch complete. I think they are about $125.00 mailorder wholesale. One of the biggest contributors to those switches failures is dirty, or corroded connections. I clean my thoroughly, then seal them with electical contact grease painted on with a brush.

Good luck.

Rob

[Mike]

Guys,

Last night I took out the s/p switch, marked cables first. I took it to the bench, marked the housing with a grease pencil, took the three screws out with end cap. I could then see down inside the switch. One large washer was pitted on both sides, I took it out off of a shaft. Under this washer was about five very small washers. I noticed there was an e-cup shaped washer holding these other washers in line, although the five washers were held on the shaft the shaft can move back and forth. I looked in the bottom of the s/p switch and saw several loose pieces of metal. I believe this unit shorted out from this indication. There was only one large washer inside this unit. I would feel comfortable if I had another s/p to compare with or someone that could walk me through assembly, or a diagram. I called Terry earlier in the week and ordered me a s/p, hopefully I'll get this before the weekend so I can have it in soon. mike