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Where To Jack An R Model:


Rob

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I'm wanting to lift the front end of an R model, and remove the front springs for either rebush, or replacement. Is the front weldment that supports the engine mount strong enough to bear the weight? The engine is a 300+. I'm not certain I can remove the springs with jack stands under the front mount spring sockets/pockets and I certainly can't support the truck by the axle with no springs.

My winch truck has a noticeable "lean" to the right side and suspension measurements verify either the spring is weak, or the bushings are beat out. Either way, I want it right.

Thanks,

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Rob,

What about that Gantry Crain ya bought? Want it lift what ya need done? :unsure:

mike

I'm certain it would lift the weight as it's rated at 3 ton. I don't have tow hook sockets on this truck so no real place to get hold of it. After speaking with another member I think I can lift by the xmember mentioned and support the truck under the same member on stands. Gotta clean out a stall to park in to do the work next as I'm still debating on driving this one to South Bend.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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When you get it all figured out, come on over and get the springs out of my truck LOL!!! Left front looks kinda beat and the rear bushing won't take grease. It's on the "to do list" for someday.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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When you get it all figured out, come on over and get the springs out of my truck LOL!!! Left front looks kinda beat and the rear bushing won't take grease. It's on the "to do list" for someday.

I got is figgered out today. The spring eye bushings and shackles bushings both need replaced at a minimum. I jacked the truck up till just having the tires clear the floor, and placed a porta power on the floor pushing against the front, and rear spring eyes. They moved about 1/4" each taking up play.

I'll pull the springs after the South Bend trip and haul them to St. Louis for work. They can hot rearch and rebush them to OEM spec. I'll have new ones made if they are defective. Really like the truck and it runs/drives great but I don't like the "lean" at all.

I have an "Alemite" grease gun you smack with a hammer to make frozen zerks take grease. You pack this thing full of grease, attach it to the frozen zerk, smack it with a two pound hammer and about 12,000psi of grease pressure usually breaks something loose. I've not seen one like it in several years but I'll loan it to you.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Rob i have seen those grease gun deals to years ago but ant seen one in 20 years. Dont try it on a elbo zert.

Yeah, it shears them right off!! Learned that the somewhat hard way on a leaf sping zerk that was 90 degrees. Kinda hard to drill them out when you can't get to them without removing fuel tanks, or battery boxes for clearance.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Yeah, it shears them right off!! Learned that the somewhat hard way on a leaf sping zerk that was 90 degrees. Kinda hard to drill them out when you can't get to them without removing fuel tanks, or battery boxes for clearance.

Rob

I bought one Rob, the instructions said to fill it with 10wt oil and smack it, didnt have much luck with it like that. I think I will stick some grease in there. I have had luck using porta powers on them before, taking zert out, screwing fitting in it and porta power though. randyp

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I bought one Rob, the instructions said to fill it with 10wt oil and smack it, didnt have much luck with it like that. I think I will stick some grease in there. I have had luck using porta powers on them before, taking zert out, screwing fitting in it and porta power though. randyp

Now that sounds like the Texas way to get something done.

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I bought one Rob, the instructions said to fill it with 10wt oil and smack it, didnt have much luck with it like that. I think I will stick some grease in there. I have had luck using porta powers on them before, taking zert out, screwing fitting in it and porta power though. randyp

I have seen as you mentioned used but mine looks like a hand impact driver you would place a phillips bit in the end of to loosen frozen fasteners. You unscrew the cap, fill the chamber with grease, replace the cap, place the grease fitting that is on the end over the zerk, and smack it. Instant pressure exceeding 10,000 psi is applied to the zerk. Usually the old and hardended grease is punched through and the joint will now take grease easily.

If you put chassis grease inside the porto power pump barrel it will probably not work again until completely cleaned out. They don't have a preload spring against a piston as a hand grease gun does. Also most porto power assembly are pressure regulated at 10,000 psi maximum to be able to sell them in this country.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I have seen as you mentioned used but mine looks like a hand impact driver you would place a phillips bit in the end of to loosen frozen fasteners. You unscrew the cap, fill the chamber with grease, replace the cap, place the grease fitting that is on the end over the zerk, and smack it. Instant pressure exceeding 10,000 psi is applied to the zerk. Usually the old and hardended grease is punched through and the joint will now take grease easily.

If you put chassis grease inside the porto power pump barrel it will probably not work again until completely cleaned out. They don't have a preload spring against a piston as a hand grease gun does. Also most porto power assembly are pressure regulated at 10,000 psi maximum to be able to sell them in this country.

Rob

10,000 psi is bout good nuff for me to do some damage, using porta power oil, not grease. randyp

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I got is figgered out today. The spring eye bushings and shackles bushings both need replaced at a minimum. I jacked the truck up till just having the tires clear the floor, and placed a porta power on the floor pushing against the front, and rear spring eyes. They moved about 1/4" each taking up play.

I'll pull the springs after the South Bend trip and haul them to St. Louis for work. They can hot rearch and rebush them to OEM spec. I'll have new ones made if they are defective. Really like the truck and it runs/drives great but I don't like the "lean" at all.

I have an "Alemite" grease gun you smack with a hammer to make frozen zerks take grease. You pack this thing full of grease, attach it to the frozen zerk, smack it with a two pound hammer and about 12,000psi of grease pressure usually breaks something loose. I've not seen one like it in several years but I'll loan it to you.

Rob

"Alemite" One of the only grease guns still made in U.S.A. air or armstrong powered

Ernie D

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I think it was the lastest Northern Tool catalog that showed one of those hammer smack grease breaker gizmo's. Thought about getting one and trying it.

I've got an Alemite grease gun and it's been a workhorse for alot of years.

Rob, bring that gizmo to SB and I'll giv'r a shot. I'll try to remember a grease gun too.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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