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rhasler

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Everything posted by rhasler

  1. rhasler
    Thanks Tom. Ideally the body manufacturer would use pre-made tail lamp modules that just bolted in place, but I think improving the mechanical aspects of the lights on their bodies is one of the first things they cut when trying to bring costs down.
  2. rhasler
    I think the antique parts suppliers on the Mack website has a listing for someone providing new period correct wiring harnesses, he might be able to help.
  3. rhasler
    Here are some more pictures of the Titan. It is indeed sold and currently having a fifth wheel, headache/chain rack, and other parts installed before going out the door around 4 AM Monday morning along with the brand new trailer that was purchased along with it. Prolly won't get to see it before it leaves. All day long Everyone was hanging all over it and drooling so much it was hard to get a half decent picture. I talked to the driver that brought it up and he said it was a monster. Rawhide Oxblood interior Here's the nice shiny DEF tank
  4. rhasler
    The pile of crap that I pulled out of the truck. The square tubing is what the wire was originally run through. Never been a fan of that because it fills up with mud. Some pictures of the new wiring near completion. Not perfect, but much better than before. Sometimes it's hard to work around the way things are built without dropping a bunch of cash to modify the existing parts. And best of all, the new lights. working and BRIGHT! These were some pretty tricked out looking LEDs with 13 diodes in the stop/tail/turn lights, and they were only a few dollars more than the 10 diode variety.
  5. rhasler
    You got that right! The problem here is that the lights aren't boxed in so all of the wires are constantly exposed to road and environmental hazards. I don't know why the tank manufacturer built the rear lights this way, when they build tanks for our Macks the lights are closed in the back. Must figure the KW won't outlast the lights and wiring the way a Mack will!
  6. rhasler
    This was sitting out front when I went to lunch today. It wasn't there when I came to work and word is that it's already sold! Not sure of the specs on the truck but from a distance it looked pretty good and it's mighty tall! The potential buyer apparently has been pretty impressed with his recent purchase of a 2011 GU with the 505 HP MP8 and Allison transmission. This should be a pretty high profile sale because most of their recent purchases have been Kenworths.
  7. rhasler
    I started Re-wiring the rear body lights on a late model Kenworth today. When I got to the wiring on the left side I found this I'm currently installing new led lights on the truck and will try to get some more pictures tomorrow.
  8. rhasler
    It's a Mack/Kent Moore tool. Last I checked it was over $500 and the tool for the wear ring is a separate tool. You might look into having a dealership install the seal for you so it's covered by warranty. Manuals are readily available, the publication number is 5-106.
  9. rhasler
    I'm so sorry Chuck, my deepest condolences and prayers to you and your family.
  10. rhasler
    The E6 2 valve specs say: Liner, Flange Extension Above Deck — Beaded without Fire Ring 0.0035–0.0075 Flat, without Fire Ring 0.0005–0.0035 Here's a picture of what Theakerstwo referred to
  11. rhasler
    If the oil cooler tube inside the bell housing is leaking replace it with 42QE3224 (25134175), this is a flexible line rather than a solid steel tube. It needs to be clamped to the countershaft covers with cushioned "P" clamps. Make sure to get new snap rings for the input shaft on the transmission. Pay attention to which spiral snap ring goes where, there are two of them and they are pretty close in size. Use the rear main seal with the wear ring. Install the seal to the deepest setting allowed by the main seal installation tool. Get the right tool to install it, don't try knocking it in with a hammer.
  12. rhasler
    I did that the other day too.
  13. rhasler
    If it's a 14" clutch the intermediate plate may be binding against the clutch dogs (drive lugs) that are driven into the flywheel.
  14. rhasler
    Need more/better pictures. The pinion housing in the first picture looks like it belongs to a Mack. Look for an 11KB number stamped on the differential.
  15. rhasler
    And here I thought this was gonna be another Randyp/Rob/Gorilla/Bear/Mouse menagerie.
  16. rhasler
    What, you mean like this?
  17. rhasler
    No "hypothetical" welding on that one.
  18. rhasler
    Yep, that's a world ID number.
  19. rhasler
    And sooooo cheap! It does look nice though.
  20. rhasler
    Is you lightning bolt coming on when it starts missing? If it is you can turn the speed control on/off switch to off and then press the set/resume button and a blink code will flash out via the lightning bolt. 8-1 through 8-6 are the codes for the EUPs. 8-1 for #1, 8-2 for #2, and so on. If you don't have a lightning bolt you could short the terminals on the EUPs with a short length of wire and listen for the cylinder that isn't contributing. That's not really the correct way to cut out the cylinders, but for your year model it shouldn't hurt anything. Cutting out the cylinders this way will cause faults to log for the EUPs in the EECU.
  21. rhasler
    AC has an EGR valve, external EGR cooler, VGT turbo, slightly different electronics. AI or AMI looks pretty much like the E-Tech CCRS, may have a similar design water pump as the AC engine though. The AI and AMI has an extra bump on the exhaust lobes to reintroduce exhaust gas into the cylinders on the intake stroke
  22. rhasler
    ENOUGH ABOUT FOOTWEAR! IF STOP PARTICULAR YOU DO NOT, FIND MY BOOT UP YOUR ASS YOU WILL!
  23. rhasler
    Quite interesting, what was the maximum altitude you were at during your demo and how do you figure it would do at lower elevations?
  24. rhasler
    DPF smart switch abnormal update rate.
  25. rhasler
    I will check in the morning, I don't see that code in my information either.

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