rhasler

Nice pictures Jay, the U looks real nice. I imagine the context of the last picture was something like this:

What you mean to say is that it was all her fault for not unplugging the coffee maker so that you couldn't figure out how to make it go, don't you?

Could be, a lot of times they leak oil into the harness and cause weird problems

Low engine oil level I think.

I think both Bendix and Midland have kits available.

Main problem I see with the Superliner is the volvo battery!

Way to go Larry!

Sensor in the radiator should be for the Kysor low coolant level warning.

Got the email today.

Welcome aboard. I like the Superliner, hate to hear about the R.

No sir, I did not get the memo. Thought maybe it had to do with the MH/Mack Museum situation.

Should run a lot better. Frankly, I'm surprised he wasn't throwing the belt every time he started the engine.

Will do! May have to start ordering parts from him too, maybe then I'd get my parts when I needed 'em!

Pictures?

I've got a feeling Barry is behind this. Anyone got an idea what the story is with "BMT VIP" and "BMT Benefactor"?

I spent the better part of the morning trying to remove the dampner from the hub. Eventually I pulled the hub and dampner as an assembly and the whole mess into the press. I had around 20 tons of pressure on the press when the hub finally came out-didn't get any pictures of it though, it happened too fast! When the hub came out of the dampner it was kind of like when really stuck axle wedges come loose. The hub bounced off of the rubbed mats under the press and landed a few feet away. Luckily nothing was damaged during this episode, other than the already bad dampner, which was noticeably bowed in the center afterwards. The 12" dampner was replaced with a 13.5" dampner and now all is well!

The wires from the solenoid valve go into the connector at the valve block you added it to. Red wire goes into cavity D, black into cavity R.

Sure 'nuff, that's what I was looking at when I noticed the alternator. Looked like the dampner was about to come off the crank.

Most every Mack water pump of the type your engine has that I've seen go bad has coolant seeping from the weep hole on the water pump. Looking from the passenger side of the engine (at about 7 o'clock as viewed from the front of the water pump) you should be able to see the weep hole.

59572 is the chassis serial number of an RD690S that was built with a Jake Brake. Why your dealer won't/can't look something like that up when asked is beyond me, but it seems like a lot of dealers are like that anymore. The adjusting screw you refer to is part number 421GC41CM.

I was working on an electrical fault on a 1999 CH613 today and ran across this, probably the most worn out alternator mounting arrangement I've seen.

Jam nut- 142GC33M Oil supply screw- 4559-25132 RD688S 59572 was built 10.23.00 and has a Jake Brake.

Quite a nice looking truck.

The LH I took pictures of at the ATHS show had a frame mounted parking brake, just didn't get pictures of it.

For a 2001 model you are probably at step 7 or 8 engine software, so it shouldn't need to see vehicle speed. I think step 10 is when they started adding restrictions for vehicle speed and oil/coolant temperature to engage the brake. To use the factory wiring you'll need to have the ecu programmed so that it knows an engine brake is installed, otherwise the engine ecu will not supply the current needed to pull in the brake solenoids. You could technically make the brake operate by hard wiring it to a switch, but the units would not disengage at the 1000 rpm drop out, nor when the clutch pedal or the accelerator are pushed. Another thing I would check is the rocker shaft plugs. The original rocker shafts had an expansion plug installed that would sometimes blow out, usually out of the front rocker shaft forward hole, when oil temperature was cold and more pressure was needed to pump the oil through the engine. Look at the valve spring arrangements on the heads. If the valve rotator is on top of the spring instead of on the bottom I would strongly advise replacing them with the lower valve rotators. The small coil springs in the rotators will eventually break due to bending loads applied to them during valve movement. The pieces will work out of the case of the rotator and wash down to the cam and contribute to cam failure.