MACKS
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Everything posted by MACKS
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Yeah u can do it it’s not brain surgery,lol,just be careful make sure u support the truck properly and have at it,let’s us know what u find when u get it apart,good luck..
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That’s the truth,and the reason I say if in doubt go with all new parts but I forgot the trunnion bar is not removable like on the 58, that could be a real cost factor if it’s shot..
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Yes but if your seeing the rears walking out bad no sense might as well rebuild it if u have the bucks to do it right..
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He could do that,I just think he should check the actual movement of the springs,see how much the rears are walking out,if it’s just slight he could just keep on hauling.
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To check,back the truck up while turning hard one way and then the other look to see if the wheel are moving out of line,they should stay perfectly straight or you can jack it up under the trunnion bar on one side and get a big bar in between the spring and the frame rail and pry it outward to check for movement..
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Yes that’s correct,only bronze,once u get it apart and inspect the bushings if there worn all the way thru then the bar and the saddle will have wear since they were contacting each other,new saddles come with the bushings already pressed in,you might want to check out Stengel bros on line and u can price every thing out,I think they have the best prices ..
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There is no such thing as polyurethane bushings to replace bronze,you have that confused with the pads,just a heads up if your bronze bushings are completely worn thru,u will most likely need to replace the bar and the saddles or it won’t be 100 percent,big expensive job,are u thinking of doing this yourself,I would not advise it..
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If there’s no fluid leaking out of the cylinder it’s good,no repacking needed,body stays up till u move the lever that opens the valve and lets the fluid drain out and back into the tank..
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Here on Long Island most are at 5 bucks for diesel..
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Hell we can’t even put a part on the counter at our Mack dealer,COVID rules..lol😂
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There’s no rust in that frame,you can tell by the picture of the end of the frame,perfectly clean,that whole truck looks immaculate..
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My thoughts as well..😂
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So are you saying it was fine until u greased the throw out bearing,doesn’t make sense..
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Looks like the boost gauge,should get up to 20 -25 lbs or so under a load..
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Remember when we used to add a can of stp when changing oil in our cars..
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I remember years back we would run straight 40W just to have better oil pressure..
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Back in 2008 I started a thread on here about low oil pressure on 96 e-7 350 I was look ing to buy,well I bought it and still running it,still has low oil pressure at ideal and still runs awesome,500,000 miles doesn’t burn a drop of oil,great engines..
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If that fuel line between the heads is leaking I’m betting it starts a little hard after sitting a day or two..
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Haha,I had to google Pup Handler,never heard of that sick chit..lol
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But he’s a very qualified “Pup Handler” …😂
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Good luck,before you start pick up a tub of hand cleaner and a lot of bandaids..😂
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Yeah I thought all the states were under the same federal guidelines,here in NY if you first got your cdl before 1999 and drive intrastate they give u a k on your license and no med required,but you can change that any time you want..
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It stands to reason they can’t be good for the engine,always heard bad things about them..
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How does the pedal feel,do you have free play at the top,is it possible the trans is not engaging?
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Sweet looking truck..
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