ThaddeusW

Hmmm, dont have a torch that big. I do have a pretty hefty propane torch though, I will give that a try.

Dont forget Allied electronics or Newark electronics. They both carry an extensive inventory of electrical and electronic parts.

Yep hydraulic brakes. The left front wheel turns just fine. The parking brake acts on the very short drive shaft, not a drum parking brake but something like it.

So I got to working on my forklift yesterday (old Clark Y40, supposedly 1948) . One of the front driving wheels is frozen solid to the brake shoes. I yanked the wheel and tried to remove the brake drum. Turns out, the hub and drum appear to be one piece. I pulled the axle shaft, got a long 8 foot heavy pipe on one of the studs and tried to pry the hub/drum to no avail. I bent the pipe and almost damaged the thread on the stud. What is the best way to free a stuck brake drum? I tried beating the drum with a drilling hammer, didn't free nothing. I don't want to hit it too hard as I fear I may crack the drum. Would heat help?

Getting close to the deadline. I wish someone would save it.

Is that your truck?

Certain 315/80R22.5's are rated to 10,000 per tire in single applications. Most 315/80's will also work on a 18,000 axle as they can support 9000+ in single applications. In dual applications they are suited for tandems up to 70,000! They are very common in Europe for vocational work. BUT they aren't floats. Your better off with floats as they afford you better flotation on soft ground (sand, pea gravel, mud etc.)

I stumbled upon this nice trailer the other day and gave purchasing it some thought. I just don't have the room for it. I figured I would pass this on to others who may be looking for an old lowboy that isn't too long to hook to their tractor. Pass this along to anyone who is interested. It was used to haul a large forklift, the company installs boiler systems and does their own rigging. There wasn't any name tag on the trailer, he says its either a Talbert or a Rogers (maybe neither). Its either a 60's or early 70's model but it does not have Maxi brakes on the axles so it might be 1960's. Its pretty damn solid, needs new wood and has a few rust holes in the diamond plate on the rear but no visible rot of the main beams. Has a pony motor that doesn't work (you could put a new engine in) and was bypassed to hook to a wet kit. Its missing a glad hand but other than that its ready to go, it was last used 2 years ago. Its about 30 feet long with a well that's about 16 feet, and the deck is rear detachable . Tires are 15" on the classic 15" six spoke hubs, not sure of the actual tire size though. Not sure of the capacity but it might be anywhere from 25-35 tons. Would be good for hauling antique farm tractors or smaller trucks/equipment. Still road worthy. Its Located in Farmingdale, NY 11735. That is on Long Island. The company is moving its operations to a new location and they want to get rid of the trailer within 2 weeks. They wanted 5000 but will settle for 3, MAYBE less. And its important that you make your decision by November 15th! The guy I spoke with was a nice guy, told him about my Mack and said he would love to see it in action picking up the trailer, too bad I just don't have the room. He loves the old Macks as well and drove a friends B model with a Quad box a few times. He said he would rather see someone put it to use rather than scrap it. Its rare nowadays that someone actually cares about saving a piece of trucking history, even if its just a trailer. !!!!!!!! MESSAGE OR EMAIL ME FOR CONTACT INFORMATION !!!!!!!! Not the best pictures.

They need to have an offer by Nov 15th. They are moving shop and have to get rid of it. The guy did tell me that is someone were serious and put a deposit on the trailer, they would hold onto it for a month or two.

Wait, they were going to cut 2 feet from the middle and weld the rear section back on? Never do that, remove the axles, cut the rear of the frame down 2' and then slide the axles back under.

LOL stop giving me ideas. Seriously though, I gave it thought and Ill have to pass. Maybe someone else can buy it and save it from the scrap heap.

OUCH.

We should have a BMT lottery pool. The power ball is what 245 million now? Id buy a commercial lot with a building big enough to house a shop and some trucks then build a house on the land to live in. No one can bitch about derelict trucks then (on Long Island many parts have community boards that dictate how your property should be, facists)

I have thought about going to a full tandem. The thing is if it aint broke, don't fix it. She runs good and I am happy with that. However, I am not going to rule out that upgrade entirely. I gave it thought and I just don't have the room. I am going to inquire about the price when I take lunch in a few minutes. Its such a shame too because it looks solid, not bent up and I like that it still has the old school 6 spoke 15" hubs all around. If I could rent a cheap parking spot for it that would be an option. But Id rather know the person who owns the lot. I have heard a few horror stories about stolen trucks and trucks getting scrapped because the lot owner lost the truck owners number and needs to clear the lot to sell the land. If it was cheap, and I had a parking spot I would seriously consider buying it. But like everything else its another project on my plate. So far I have a 61 Mack and a 48 Clark forklift to work on. If I did get that trailer, it would be last on the list for restoration and would sit around for a while. And I am sure my current 5th wheel is shot, the slider track is heavily rust pitted and the whole thing is frozen up. I don't know if I can truly trust the 5th wheel as of yet.

I have been working on the air system for the past few weekends. I have some extra air lines that I am going to eliminate as well as move some poorly routed lines and add a few couplings so I can air up the system from an external compressor or get compressed air from the brake system. The only two sources I have found that sell air brake tubing is McMaster Carr (expensive) and anythingtruck.com. anythingtruck.com is pretty cheap and they carry a full line of nylon and rubber tubing as well as valves, dryers etc. Anyone know of another source, one that carries a full line of air brake hose/tubing and valves, parts etc?

So the other weekend I finally got my forklift delivered. It needs a distributor so it doesn't run. To make a long story short I had to drag it off the trailer with the B. It sat over the winter and one of the front brake drums rusted solid to the shoes. I had a hell of a time getting it up the driveway incline, had to jack the front end up with a pallet jack to get it rolling. Its so damn heavy that i finally ran out of traction and the left rear wheels started spinning. The lift is sitting in the middle of the yard, not completely blocking everything but its in the way. Its a 6x2, one axle is a lift axle and I am a bit worried about traction on soft ground (Eg. at truck shows on grass or dirt). I was wondering what it would take to install a locker on the diff. Does the entire carrier have to be replaced? Or can one add a locker kit to the existing diff? Or should I not worry about it?

I have a neway gauge that was part of an unused neway lift axle control. Its not new and might have to be cleaned up a bit. Its not illuminated but does have the 1/4 NPT male pipe thread.

There is urea in piss but not enough to actually reduce emissions. Urine is 95% water and has a range of chemicals in it in addition to urea. Plus DEF is something like 35% pure urea and filtered water. Urine would also probably damage the catalyst due to the other crap mixed in (including dead blood cells). Besides have you ever pissed on a fire? That alone should discourage you from trying

Give Dennis Meehan a call, he told me he could sell me a B model power steering kit for something like 2 grand. Don't quote me on the price though. His website is www.oldmacks.com, it says on the front page not to call for parts but I would call and inquire as this is a kit he offers.

Mouse balls make good ammunition. Just get a length of 1" pipe, air tank and 1" ball valve. Connect pipe to valve, valve to tank and fill tank with air. load ball and fire. Thank god for the optical mouse.

Diesels don't have the compression required to bring the NG up to its auto ignition temperature. I know in order to get alcohol to burn in a diesel, the compression has to be raised to something like 30:1 or more, a huge amount of pressure. There are/were engines from CAT that were hybrid engines, they ran on diesel but used propane or NG injection right into the intake manifold and used a bit of diesel to kick start the combustion. I remember ratios of around 85/15 gas to diesel fuel ratios were possible. If you ran out of gaseous fuel the engine just switched to full diesel.

Ewwwwww. Its bad enough that they pedal their bodies but do you really want to eat their "hot sauce"?

Who the heck had all that loot and let it rot? How gone is far gone? What kind of B stuff does he have.

Im in for $100 as well. When I read the post, I was upset. Then the seller turns up saying he didn't have the heart to export it. Amazing turn of events. Joe, you did the right thing. I as well as other will try to help you get this truck to the Mack Museum and kept on American soil. Thank you. Also of note: there is a website called kickstarter.com that helps with stuff like this. We can use it to pool the dough, buy the truck and get it to museum.