Joey Mack

Great Truck and Drive train combo.... The 400 and an 8LL should kick butt... now i'm more curious..... This is when I wish I had owned large fleets, and did more with specs.... I've alway's just fixed'em.... The 8LL is my favorite Non-Mack tranny... as far as codes..... it's not about codes.... My thought's are, what are the parameters set too? you may just need to flip a couple E.E.C.U. switches.... I have done this many times, but since Volvo took over, they have "Dumbed Down" the Mack guy's ... who, in your'e area, has Mack Software? Hell someone with an old Pro-link 9000 could look at it... if they have the V-mack cards.. jojo

06' was the last of the E-tech's. ASET series, Internal EGR or Cooled EGR. The MP-7 came out in full force after that. There was an MP-7 introduced in 2004, I think it was also in CV chassis'... We called it the 'Bastard' truck at the dealership.. I guess I was curious, because I have a few ideas for the ASET but none for the MP... I've been trying to erase MP's from my brain.. jojo

I dont know what a Stienbauer Mariel is, but I was wondering if there are E.E.C.U. settings that need to be changed. Like a torque limiter, or a governor setting, . Do have access to Mack software, so you can check the "settings" and "preferences" that are turned on in the E.E.C.U.? Do you know the repair history of the engine, IE: cam job, E.C.U. replacement, turbo, injectors, I recently put injectors in an AC 427, using the v.i.n., only to find out later that the engine was not original. so I had Mack use the 11GBA # , and sure enough, they were the wrong injectors for that engine... anyway, I expect you are rulling out the simple things first, Keep in touch.. There are many smart people here... Joey

yes but the year say's MP........ just curiuos.... 👍

what color is the engine?

I forgot to add..... what I have done to the metal fender post, is weld a 3"x3" piece of flat stock to the end that mounts to the frame, drill the 5/8" hole in the center, then mount it.. this will help keep the post from loosening up over time... jojo

you can use a bolt in front of the spring hanger, The 1/4 fender can be moved to a spot where it functions and doesnt get hit with the trailer. mabey get a fender kit that requires you to drill the holes for the fender, or just drill your own .. some of the plastic fenders are all one piece and cant be modified easily... jojo

the wire harness is a small one, and it runs over the left frame rail under the cab. I have replaced these due to them chaffing where it goes over the frame edge. its costs under $150.00 3 years ago when I did the last one... jojo

at one point I had the c.a.c. out of the truck. My guess is one of the body shop people put a rag over the c.a.c. pipe and then mabey someone else jumped in and fired it up... But still no-one is speaking up, of course all of the other guys don't speak english very well... just glad no one is chewing me a new A-Hole... The heads are at a machine shop getting a valve job... It's all good..... Joey

damn.... this one went to paint 2 months ago with the hood off, ??Hhmm.. jojo

Yeah, Im a dummy too... I miss-understood the post. sorry....🤫

I have been chasing a poor running '05 C.E.G.R ASET for week's while doing other repairs to the fleet. It acted like a bad lifter... I checked everything, there were 3 EUP codes, so the owner had me replace all EUP's, Injectors, and Fuel lines.. It ran better but was still exhausting "Eye Burning" rich exhaust... I loaded the new version of P.T.T. into a New laptop, and tested everything I could,, everything I was doing including PTT was pointing at #5... I ran the valves....twice... fuel filters etc. We sent it to Mack to have them do a compression test, because our shop doesnt have the tools. (we ordered them)... Mack says #5 has 100 PSI compression.... so today I'm pulling the heads... the last thing I removed was the intake manifold, and guess what???????????? Ive only been doing this 23 years,,, and this is first for me.... W.T.F.? I can laugh at it now, but trying to explain to the owner that I'm stumped! before I found this was a bit stressful... Of course no-one will fess-up about leaving a rag in the intake and cranking the engine... 🙃

ok.. I had a very full day today. i did photo the vin, but its a 713. not sure if it matters... im sorry I didnt do more...

the turn signal bulbs have 2 filiments in them.... 2 different circuits.... the markers are on thier own....

roof lights work?

to many reasons for the issue..... whats been done to the truck? fuses? relay's? . is it a dump truck? catch my drift? jojo

For me, being safe when reading these post's,,,, is --- knowing where my wife is---- Any thought's? jojo

is the engine brake switch on the firewall, with the throttle bell crank? assuming it's R or RW.... if so, you should be able to adjust idle without affecting the engine brake switch adjustment.. No biggie... the switch is easy to adjust, just may have to twist yourself up like a pretzel to get to it...😉

yes sir.. wish I knew... I will try to get an answer tomorrow... is yours a 613 or a 713? I know someone who is very smart about Superliners..

I have one of these in the fleet that I maintain. I will try to take a look tomorrow morning. I'm surprised Watt's Mack wasn't able to help, using the V.I.N.

ok... the P.O.S. system is B.S. it has a 25 MPH limiter... blah blah blah... Just run an air switch of your own to the front diff, and make it work like they used to not to long ago... the celenoid/servo bank on the left frame rail has the switch in it... f-it... run you own. shut the original dash switch off so the ECU doesnt see it.... now it's up to you to shut it off when not needed... you can put a brake light switch in the air line attached to a buzzer, so you can be reminded that it's locked in, especially if you put a driver in the seat... iv'e done this several times... Jojo

its on the injection pump. the throttle lever rests on it. Ambach pumps have a 3/4" ish long, 5/16" jam nut with a flat head screwdriver head, in the center, Robert Bosch has a a 10mm jam nut on a screw that is 8mm-(5/16") I'm guessing you have an Ambach... What I have done is remove the whole screw and clean it up really good, (I expect it to be stuck)... look at how the screw is set, so you can put it back together close to where it was. you can use the tach as a guide, what i have used in the past, is a hand held photo tach and a strip of reflective tape on the harmonic balancer, something like the d.o.t. tape on a trailer, (white color). I have done enough of these where I pretty much can hear when it's good enough. not rocket surgery, just set it between 600-700... There will be more opinions on this, but it is simple to do. the long screw around the flat head screw is the jam nut. you turn the flat head until you like the idle speed then lock it down.. do you have an engine brake on the engine?

What tranny do you have? These trucks are slow, but deliberate... I'm always interested in why there (isn't enough power)... but never got an answer why they need to be boosted up... Mack's are work horses... I've hauled 120K with a 97' 400 and an 18 speed, 4:17 rears and could pull the hills in Maine where I was driving, did it every week, heavy illegal loads of dirt in a tri-x trailer...Just curious, Jojo