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Joey Mack

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. air dryer and D-2 governor at the same time... Next time i look at a midland pump issue, I will look into repair kits. Thanks rob...
  2. John the fuel jumper is just 7 little pieces. Yes mack still sells the correct parts for this... For now:) jojo
  3. Yes and bolt right in,, just have to make new coolant hoses, and re-locate intake and output pipes based on application. I suggest buyin the offset intake nipple for the Bendix.. You can use this to get the right part if needed... CH613/118032... Thats one of my old trucks... I have gotten remans from outside truck parts vendors for under $400.00...Jojo
  4. Heck, I forgot about midlands. yes they are good as well..
  5. I always liked the Bendix Tu-Flow compressors better than those wabco"s..
  6. Bingo!
  7. That's what I thought too. That's why I used 5 degrees as an example... Now I wish I had done a few dozen more of these in the past... He's getting good help here... jojo
  8. You guys kick ass... Thanks for the laughs, and the truth..
  9. The hose with the hole in it, is the intake, the larger steel pipe is the output. the 2 #6 J.I.C. hoses is coolant flow , in-and-out, the 1/4" line is the signal line for the governor...
  10. If you are asking me..... what I mean is the output of the turbo is called the compressor side, in some terms... I also think his air comp. intake goes around the back of the head to the bottom of the rear of the intake manifold. i didnt see where it went to the elbow after the air filter... thank you, jojo
  11. Yes it is......
  12. I just noticed your picture. I've been to the top of Mt. Washington twice.. I went up on a motorcycle once, it was great!. Jojo
  13. is there oil on the compressor side of the turbo? (the outlet)
  14. I'm glad you saw this Glenn... I tried to help without steering him the wrong way. jojo
  15. Just type "Kent Moore J 37077-1" and it will come up... good luck..
  16. I found this tool for sale. $430.00... I will keep looking... none on E-Bay right now.. Jojo
  17. The light basically times the pump for removal, bench timing, and installation. so if the light indicates the pump is timed and you bolt it to the engine that is timed as well, in theory, they should be timed. I know you know that, just saying.
  18. this is the tool.. #37077. I was told once that you dont need this tool, you can just look in the hole for the timing marks (teeth). I have never done that, so therefore I am not comfy with it. Mabey someone else can shed some light. To me, inj. timing is criticle, so I leave out as much room for error as possible, and use this tool.. I've yet to burn up an engine or build a wimpy one, just saying...Jojo
  19. Proper valve adjustment is a "Must"!
  20. quick fix.. make sure the new hose can handle heat.... no wimpy hose
  21. That is awesome... Good luck Adam.. Lots of good guys here to chat with and get advice from... Jojo
  22. Do you have this book? Page 71 has the info. Hopefully you can read the pic I posted. Is your injection pump ready to install? I am very rusty when it comes to inj. pumps, since I may do one every 5 years or so. But basically, with the pump off, you set the timing mark on the the flywheel . Lets say the timing is 5 degrees, you set the flywheel to 5 1/2 degrees. then with the Kent Moore timing tool, you rotate the pump til both A+B lights are lit at the same time. then install it to the engine. Install 2 bolts in the pump drive gear. re-install the timing tool, and back the engine up about 30+ degrees, and rotate it clockwise slowly until both lights are on at the same time, look at the timing mark on the flywheel at this time and should be right on 5 degrees. If timing is off, roll the engine back again, then forward to the correct timing mark on the flywheel,,, loosen the 2 bolts in the pump gear install 2 long bolts in the 2 open gear holes (unless you have the spanner tool), and use a long screwdriver or skinny bar to rotate the pump ( do not let the engine roll over) until both lights are lit. lock it down, then roll it back 30+ degrees again and then clockwise til lights come on, then timing should be right... I don't know of another, better or easier way,. Mabey someone else can fill in any blanks i created, Jojo
  23. The 45-0 degree is there for pump timing. there were many settings for pumps based on year, HP, and turbo. It's passed my bedtime, but tomorrow i can post pics from my E-7 book.. Just curious??? is there also a timing indicator on the front of the engine at about 12 O'Clock above the balancer? It will have 2 tabs pointing forward... Looks like "Fangs"... Jojo
  24. HELP!!!! I have an '86 RW713... I need A V.I.N. ( the last 6 digits is enough) from a Superliner with Mack rears. 92/93 series.44K susp. The Brake shoes are 4515's.. I am converting spoke wheels to Budd's. I am trying to buy 4 drums for this truck. They are, 10 hole in-board's..... Thank You, Jojo
  25. W.T.F.?? Yes "V" we need to see a pic..🤔 Jojo
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