Joey Mack

Damn... I fueled my service truck on thursday, $5.49.. went back to same place saturday.. $5.69... I didnt fuel today, i was in my shop, not on the road... jojo

our local news is reporting a diesel fuel shortage here in N.C. Is this happening in youre state? I would think there would be a surplus. the price goes up .20c or more every few days. jojo

i was just curious... when ever I read these type of posts, and the word "delete" is in the post, I cringe.. I will just keep reading and hope to learn something.. jojo

isnt there a fuel pressure regulator on the outlet at the front of the head, like an MP-8?.. what is a regulator delete upgrade? I dont like the word ''Delete'.. jojo

did you read the wire code on the sensor harness, to what path it takes?

honestly, all pins.. the 'devil inside' could be anywhere.. I dont have a go-to answer other than that.. how about isolating the wires for the sensors, and checking those pin's first. do you have back-up probes to put into the back of the plug on the correct terminals to see the voltage drop on you DVOM, when you plug it back in? I'm sorry, I am not describing this very well.. jojo

sounds like a short to ground, if you get a voltage increase when you unplug the bulkhead connector.. without have a diagram, myself, I would do an ohms tests on all the pins the see if you have continuity on 2 lines that should be closed/not connected to each other.... what turbine are you asking about? these electrical issues are hard to diagnose, this way.. jojo

Look at the top right corner above the water filter, I think only 1 temp sender, and 1 level sensor in the bottom of the surge tank, also on the right.. jojo

Bob.. the second shift pattern is a box pattern.. top gear will have the stick up and to the right, at the dash board.. if you shift this one like the other one you will grind into the gear (if you get it) and then the truck will slow down.... it's a down shift not an up shift... I drove an International 8100 with this same shift pattern as the second picture.. 2 different patterns.. if i remember right , the second tranny doesnt have the lever in the shift cover that lets you shift the 'H' pattern... i'm having a brain fart.. the second pattern can be skip shifted which makes it an 'X' pattern... confused yet?? I almost am... anyway.. if the second pattern is what you are currently driving, get used to it... and yes like me, when you get into an 'H' pattern truck you will probably scrub a gear or 3.. then when you go back to 'box' pattern... well... I may have just rambled on this instead of helping.. jojo

my God... you guys are tough.. I have always been strong, but the last few years have been bad... I'm only 53, and my knees are sore all the time, my lower back is so f'd up, that I am having a hard time doing road call's.. I can work in my shop, because I have tools to lift my work, I can loose 20 pounds off my gut but the rest of me is rock solid, but my joint's restrict me.. I don't like the new me... You go and walk youre ASS off Bob... God Bless you and your wife... jojo

how old is the (old) Mack 9spd? I think there were some that had lo-lo and3 on the low side and 5 on the top. the newer 9 speeds shift similar to a 10 spd, but in high range you go up for 6th instead of over too you and down.. 8ll is similar.. hell the 13 speed is the same pattern but without the splitter for the top 4 gears... jojo

if the plug is loose it also allows the injector to move, suction from the intake stroke can draw oil in, and pressure from the compression stroke and power stroke can push the oil into the fuel line bore..

if the plug on top is loose, oil can get around the threads onto the fuel line end in the head..

Happy Birthday Mechohaulic !! 🎂

if it is loose, you will need to re ring the injector... all you do is remove the fuel line, then the plug, then find a 3" long or longer bolt to screw into the top of the injector and pull it out.. when its out, there will be 2 rubber orings on the upper half, and a metal oring on the nozzle end.. if the metal one is not there, pick it out of the injector bore.. clean and inspect the bore.. inspect the injector, if all is good . re-ring the injector, and use the bolt to install the injector,by gently tapping it into the bore.. there will be a notch to line up, its easy to see. When you put the orings on, lube them lightly, I put a spot of white grease on the metal oring to hold it to the injector when installing it. seat the inject, put the plug back in and torque to 45-50 lbft. then install the fuel line. the other cylinders will hold prime, so just start it up and it will clear out in a few seconds.. be sure to inspect the bores and clean them out during the repair..

you can do this.. the plug may be allen headed, if you dont have an allen wrench that big, you can make one with a short bolt and 2 nuts, jam the nuts down tight then smash the exposed threads with a hammer.. this way you can use a socket wrench to check the plug. the plug is located between the 4 valves on the cylinder. no need to remove the rocker arm assembly. jojo

hopefully it is, otherwise we will be looking for a crack in the head. Have you ever been under the valve cover? are you doing the work or someone else?

when you remove the valve cover there will be an allen headed plug right above the injector. dont take it out, just tighten it. if it moves, that may be the leak, and you will need to re-oring the injector.. if you have a power leash engine brake, be aware that the wire under the valve cover is short, so be careful lifting the cover... jojo

run it a while and check it again.. there shouldnt be oil, just diesel.. did you check the torque on the injector hold down nut under the valve cover 45-50 lbft.. jojo

I have a #10 JIC male fitting that hooks to my shop air, i take the discharge line off the compressor, and hook shop air to it. my shop air pressure is higher than the gov. cut out on the truck. with that , i can fill the truck and it will purge air normally if the system is good.. this way you dont need a noisy engine running while you look for leaks.. if the truck system is good,,, check the compressor, and in some cases the drive gear will slip, on the aux shaft. with the line off, you can crank the truck and see if air is coming out, it will be hard to tell if it is the correct pressure, without making a line to hook to it then hook to the (empty) shop compressor, any portable compressor will do. to see if it builds air in the shop compressor.. This may seem like a bit of work to do some tests, but.... it works... jojo

so after 4 weeks now, has anything changed? I suggest you post the current symptoms, so that we can try to help. I assume you inspected the the wire harness under the hood for damage. anywhere the wires run through a 'p' clamp, there could damage from rubbing. there are 2 square plugs up front at the steering box, check them.. also, if the lights are on, pull 1 fuse at a time until they go out, record the fuse #, and keep going until all fuses have been checked. ( put each fuse right back in after pulling it) . there is a few relays behind the right dash panel, that need to be checked. pull the DRL relay to see if the lights work correctly. You can also swap a relay with the head light relay to see if the problem stops, if so, replace the relay.. A visual inspection of the wiring is going to be the 1st thing, and probably the best way to find the issue. you may have a bad ground, that wont let the lights come on... Lots to talk about with wiring issues... jojo

Jen Psucky is leaving, and a Licka lotta puss, is takin over.. here we go again... Oh well...

What a bunch of 'Fag;s'... oop's.. I mean, non gender specific hermaphrodite's ... I mean 'Worm's" dammit... I don't even know what i'm saying... jojo

you did not post year and model.. E-7/E-Tech... MP? Hell an E-6..?? jojo

Buy new one's....