JoeH

If you register it it's registered. If you don't register it then it's not registered. You need insurance and registration to drive it home. If you're going across state lines you'll need it registered for INTERstate, not INTRAstate. In PA you have 15 days from date of purchase/registration to get it inspected, or at least that's with cars/motorcycles. I expect with commercial vehicles you're probably not allowed to "haul" loads with the truck until it's inspected. With the Ram 3500 I don't see why you couldnt haul the 613 home with it assuming you are under the legal 13'6" height and you're not exceeding the Ram's gvwr, axle ratings, etc. I would back the truck onto your trailer to ensure you don't overload the tongue weight with the engine/trans.

That rules out batteries and alternator. Those would result in a weak/slow crank speed, and if the battery is low enough you'd likely here a rapid clicking with no turnover. What year truck, and what motor is in it? That will help narrow down for others what fuel system the truck has so that someone here can chime in. It could be a 1990 with an e6 motor, could be a mid 90s with an e7, or it could be around 2000 with an etech motor. The E7 had mechanical fuel systems, electronic over mechanical, and the etech motor has "EUP's" which are individual solenoid injector pumps for each cylinder, run off additional lobes on the camshaft. Without knowing what you're driving it's hard to give an answer. If it's an etech it could be the camshaft position sensor on the front of the timing cover. With an e6 or mechanical e7 it could be the shut off rack sticking in the injector pump, or if the shut-off lever is operated by an electric over air switch then the solenoid on that could be failing. If it's a computerized engine, do you ever have an "active" fault code? This would be indicated by a lightning bolt lit up on the dash.

With engine off a battery should be around 12 volts; engine running it needs to be over 13.2 volts to charge. Your battery is typically fine unless it drops below 9-10 volts while trying to crank. Usually only one cell goes bad in one battery; we diagnose and just replace the one battery when we have suspect it. You need to give more info. Is it cranking over slowly? Or cranking fine and just not firing off? Does nothing happen until you've bumped the key a few times? All these scenarios are caused by different things, but we don't know what exactly your symptoms are.

Truck off, how many inches of free play is there left to right on the steering wheel?

In Pennsylvania you need a class A CDL for any trailer weighing more than 10k... Doesn't matter if you're a "hobbyist" or a "professional".

It's gotta be getting to high range to hit 40 mph. We have no idea what trans came out and what went in. He may be clueless on the shifting pattern. But unless he comes back here were all shooting in the dark. He's probably already figured it out.

Never sat in a B, much less worked on one or bought parts for one. All I know is we've bought new skins for our 1980 DM bostrom high back in the past with no trouble. May have gotten the foam too, I don't recall.

If your Mack dealer is as good as mine they can fax or email you the parts diagram, but you'll need to give them a little more info... Year? Transmission model?

Shift to a higher gear?...

How are the U-joints in the steering column?

It's always fun to read Swishy's responses.

Just thought I'd cover that base; every time I've had someone ride along to train they leave their heel up in the air. Doesn't work with an air ride seat constantly moving over every bump!

I assume you're not new to trucks, but just in case you are: PLANT YOUR HEEL! If your heel isn't planted on the floor then it's impossible for YOU to maintain a steady throttle position. But like I said, I assume you're not new to trucks, so I would guess a governor issue as well. Any clue how many miles on the truck? I'm sure someone on here is savvy with the 865 governor and can tell you what's likely going on with your governor. Not sure if there were multiple fuel pump options on that motor, post a picture of your fuel pump just for expediting the solution.

Ouch!! 3100 rpms?? I'd chew a driver out big-time for that one! Not just for potential damage to truck, but also for sending a freight train down a mountain to who knows who at the bottom! You ruin your engine going downhill you're F 'ed, and most likely going to kill yourself and possibly others.

Diesel is about 3.10 up here, driver hourly rates are $20-25 or so I believe. What's important is that you're making money; just be careful on 30/60/90/120 day pay, it's all well and good til the economy tanks and you're left hanging for 3 months worth of unpaid invoices. Sounds like your an effective entrepreneur! Keep it up!

PA triaxle rates are in the $75-$100 per hour range I do believe. I don't know how different operating costs are, but 55 for a triaxle? Not sure how anyone makes money on that.

Check your fuel supply pressure; had my 95 e7-350 make the same sound for a while, only difference was mine did it at the top end, near 1800 rpms. Took 2 sets of fuel filters to get rid of it. First set cleared it up for a few days, second set made it go away for the past year or two. Your supply pump could be shot, not making enough pressure until it gets up a little bit in RPMs.

My '79 Mack endt676 wants to go to 2100, 2300 max for your shifts. The 2400 he referenced is the standard gauge limit in most? Mack trucks. The engines never go to that (hopefully) but it's the peak reading on the gauge.

Don't know where you're located but .y dealer has been fine for Mack hubs in the past. Or you can try a junk yard...

Unless of course they're single axle dumps and the dump bodies have their own subframe that disperses the hoist cylinder point load.

Pennsylvania most of our dump trucks are triaxles rated at 73,280 lbs. Tractor frames also are not typically as deep as traditional dump trucks, so when you raise the dump body the hoist cylinder puts a massive point load on the frame right behind the cab. Watch for frame failures around the back of the cab. You really should be running double frame chassis for dump truck work.

I frequently shift my '95 e7-350 around there too unless I'm climbing and need more, but it doesn't go above 1850-1900.

Governor is probably set at 1850, which is probably about where peak horsepower is. In general an engine will tell you where it wants to run. Sounds like you're driving it about right.

Haven't heard of this story; link?

Serial number?... Send the VIN to the Mack museum in Macungie and they'll get you all the original build info for the truck; be courteous and give them a donation as donations are how they sustain their operations.