JoeH

Post your location, you might be surprised to find someone on here lives local to you and could put an experienced set of eyes on your truck.

The E7 engines had a high volume oil pump option if I recall. Would it be compatible with this engine? Does t solve coolant issues, blue smoke, etc, but it could up the oil pressure...

Cold oil is thick. Warm oil is thin. Hence the pressure drop.

It should, there's Active and Inactive fault codes. Active trip the light, inactive are stored faults that were an issue but are not currently. Or at least that's my understanding on the ETECH motors. No idea what year/model you're dealing with though.

I'm just popping in to this thread, haven't been following. Sometimes the spot welds fail on these pushrods and the end inserts (ball and cup ends) are loose. I've seen a couple that way on our endt676 engines.

The first 2 seem minor to me. Need to be fixed, but minor. That 291 perplexes me. "See Diesel Repair"? Is that code for "something mechanical is broken so we're derating"? Pull valve covers maybe to see if there's anything outside of ordinary with your valve train? How's the oil pressure and fuel pressure?

Try Mack Default and select whatever USB port # you're plugged in to...

Can't open the file, can you take a picture of the codes on your screen? Diesel Explorer should be fairly descriptive on what they mean.

If it's VMAC III and your check engine light is on you can pull 2 digit "blink codes" by holding the bottom function of the cruise control (I think it's Set/Decel) with the key on. Cruise on/off switch needs to be off to do it. Count the flashes of the lightning bolt and post them here, someone can tell you what they mean. After one code is spat our push the button to request another code. Keep doing it til it starts repeating itself.

What year and model.are you trying to connect to? There should be a rocker switch to flip from ABS to Diagnostics. You should be set on Diagnostics. And key should be on. On Diesel Explorer there's a "Components" tab, that shows you which computers the Diesel Link sees. If it's a VMAC III you should see listed the EECU, VECU, as well as ABS module if it has one. If one is missing then you could have a power fault in the wiring to the missing ECU.

You guys should have had more sex with less condoms! Then we wouldn't be in this mess!

In all honesty I think what's going on is the Boomer Generation is retiring and there simply isn't enough population in my generation to fill the void. (I'm 32). Covid pushed a fair amount of Boomers out of the workforce I bet. Guys that didn't want to deal with all the BS of vaccine/mask mandates changing every other week, etc. Meanwhile these folks still have homes, still need plumbers, are still investing in the hardscaping around their houses, etc. The generations behind them simply don't have the population to carry the workload. Thats my observation and I'm sticking to it! Look around, I'll bet you see a lot less young folks in the companies you work with than you remember from your youth.

I do about 10k miles/year on my triaxle, usually replace 2+ pairs of drive tires in a year. I keep a pair of recaps mounted and ready to go in the garage. When that set goes on the truck I go to Bergeys Tires and get the bald set recapped or I get a retread on one of their cases. Once in a while I'll work in a set of new drive tires. Truck has 11R24.5 drives, 315's on the steer and lift axle. Steer usually gets new Continental's, the old steering tires get capped for the lift axle. Not worth new tires, I'll just grind the tread off delivering concrete to postage stamp driveways with a long wheelbase. Most driveways are a 3-5 point turn for me to get into. We bought an MR688S, and that truck uses 315's for steer, lift, and drive! No way in hell is this truck ever getting new drive tires, not at 800-1000 a piece! New 315's for the steer, but that's it for new tires on this truck. Steers from both trucks will start making their way into the drive positions.

Brakes still get done this way, there's a reason there's a core charge on brake shoes. Associated Truck Parts where we get our brake/driveline components relines shoes. They've even relined the shoes for our wheel loader.

Easily the most used switch in a truck.

For drives? Cheapish I'd fine with me on drives, but we spend money on the steer tires.

That's landscaping in style. I hope your customers like it when that shiny old dog rolls up!

Also the pyrometer is now running 2-300° cooler.

April fool's I suspect!

The top "right" (passenger side) bolt must have dropped the rubbery washer out. That bolt wasn't holding that corner down well, but the bolt was seized: twisted off. Had to drill and re-tap to take a 5/16 bolt instead of the metric junk that was in there. Only got to do a 4 mile round trip test run empty today, looking forward to seeing how it runs loaded tomorrow!

Replaced charge air cooler. Had a fatigue crack halfway down the front of one side.

Truck went from being a mutt tapping out barely at 20 psi of boost back to a bulldog at 30 psi of boost. In 10 years of owning this truck we have never seen more than 25 psi out of it.

Now I want to find one for when my boys are old enough to not trash that thing.

Never seen a camelback with shock absorbers...

If you've changed fuel filters and have had the tanks off then you have a ton of air in your fuel system. Many trucks have a hand primer mounted on them, there's a few different styles. Take a picture and upload it for us. The hand primer pump should be pumped until you hear fuel splashing back into the fuel tank or if you're running out of a bucket then you can hold the return line up so you can see fuel flowing out. You know you're starting to move fuel when the hand pump gets very hard to push. When you get to that point.... Keep priming for a bit. Also since you're new to diesels, these older ones have a knob next to the key for "Fuel shutoff" you need to push that knob in all the way before it will start. You can pull the batteries out of these trucks and they'll keep running til you pull that knob out to shut the engine down.