JoeH
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Everything posted by JoeH
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2004 MR688 transmission output speed 4-1
JoeH replied to Ryanp's topic in Electrical, Electronics and Lighting
My MR688 tripped the 4-1 code a few times. We changed the crankshaft sensor when we changed the flywheel housing last week. If your flywheel housing says "Renault" on the top then I'd check it real close for cracks. Ours was cracked from the starter motor area over the top, and halfway down the passenger side. Apparently it's common for the Renault housings to crack. Ours was also leaving pretty hefty puddles of oil that would dribble out of the flywheel housing whenever the truck parked. Been running the truck on the road a week and a half no issues now, no leaks. -
5.49 sounds like a dream, PA is $6.50+
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My repaired R model frame has sleeves centered on the outside of where the welds are. It's not just about making the crack go away, it's also about making sure the frame holds up. Mack has a book with "how to repair frames" properly. If you're going to do it, follow Mack's instructions...
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We have a steel frame truck that's had both rails welded, been running it for years. But no aluminum frames...
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Leaky fuel tanks can cause bad fuel mileage....
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How are the king pins? I assume these use a tie rod from left to right? How are the tie rod ends? I drove an oil delivery truck that had a nasty wobble, the trucks usual driver just put up with it. When I drove the truck I went straight to the tie rod ends and the one was horribly worn out, about ready to fall apart. Boss had the truck fixed the next day.
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Swim; haven't had time to put our lettering on the side of the mixer body, that's just one thing on the long "to do" list. More important is the brake S cam bushings are worn. Truck will be getting cam bushings and new slack adjusters soon, I have to adjust the brakes every morning.
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Do you have a VIN? A Mack dealership would be your best resource. They'll ask for the "last six" of the vin, but you'll want to have them run the full vin as it will likely have a different country code or something weird.
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How's your Pyrometer reading? How about your Boost gauge? We just replaced the charge air cooler on our '95 E7-350 and it's a night and day difference. Picked up 10 psi of boost and dropped 2-300 degrees on the pyro. Had a cracked charge air cooler.
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All reassembled and operable. Tomorrow is "Sink or Swim".
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.010 is if you're using a Machined Dowel type runout gauge that fits into the engine in place of the crankshaft. .020 is if you're bolting a runout gauge to the crankshaft. The difference in runout tolerance is because of any wobble in the crankshaft/bearings. According to the book.
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Questions about a Mack Ch613
JoeH replied to BOBWhite's topic in Modern Mack Truck General Discussion
No idea. Depends on how big your hills are and how heavy your foot is. -
That makes sense.
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Allison Auto & torque converter bolted to the flex plate. Not sure how much "slop" the Allison input shaft can tolerate.
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Questions about a Mack Ch613
JoeH replied to BOBWhite's topic in Modern Mack Truck General Discussion
Inline pumps can be computer controlled from ~1991 on. It's called econovance or something. Drive hub for the fuel pump is electronically controlled via VMAC I and VMAC II computers. About 1998 is when it went full computer with the EUP fuel pumps. I have 2001 in my head as the best year for the ETECH motors. The E7 can be full mechanical or partial computer controlled. You have to look closely at the fuel pump assembly to figure it out. -
Questions about a Mack Ch613
JoeH replied to BOBWhite's topic in Modern Mack Truck General Discussion
Mechanical E7s are probably the best Mack motor ever for durability. Personal opinion. Computer E7s... Good engines but electronics fail... -
My dad cut out around 7, I put in another 4 hours trying to get dumb stuff done that doesn't need 2 people. Remaining: Trans mount bolts Battery cables to new starter, tie up wiring PTO shaft & drive shaft Rear oil pan bolts/readjust gasket Reinstall the water tank for the mixer body
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If I have to take this apart again it's to drop a reman engine into this truck. Will run it til it says otherwise...
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Currently scraping the last of our bottle clean to torque up the bellhousing/flywheel housing bolts.
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I would have much rather had the Mack brand flywheel housing, but Mack has yet to get back to me on an ETA. First Motion part number from online matched the Mack number, but noted that it wants 7/16 bolts for the flywheel to bellhousing, not the metric ones that Mack had. New flywheel housing is within 1/16th overall depth of the old one. Overall I hope I'm not screwed. Trans is bolted up, torque converter is bolted to flywheel. Time to torque up some things and keep working.... Late night...
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Left dowel is a solid round pin. Right dowel is a flat blade.
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Top left. Top right. Bottom left. Bottom right.
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Broken lower right flywheel housing to block bolt. How do we adjust flywheel housing runout? 0.022, 0.000 0.028, 0.013 Those are the runout readings on the four corners.
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Programming options after delete
JoeH replied to saintnicky's topic in Modern Mack Truck General Discussion
Macks don't respond well to deletes. -
https://www.firstmotionproducts.com/mack-flywheel-housing-634gc5337m2/ Found one here. Getting started on replacing it tomorrow morning.
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